I've got a grab rail that is 1" stainless tubing (horizontal). It is attached to the boat with screws going straight down through the top and bottom of the tubing into the deck. Any hints on the best way to re-bed to keep this water-tight?
Re-Bed Stainless grab rail --- best practice ?
- Thread starter RonRelyea
- Start date
whether they are machine screws or wood screws, you can pot those holes to keep water away from any wood core. Then you can drill starter holes for wood screws or regular holes for machine screws and bevel the holes. You can bed the tube and screws with butyl rubber.
The problem with wood screws is that you cannot keep the screw stationary while tightening, so the butyl gets turned. With machine screws, you can just tighten the nut, and you can keep the butyl from turning.
You could also seal them with 5200.
The problem with wood screws is that you cannot keep the screw stationary while tightening, so the butyl gets turned. With machine screws, you can just tighten the nut, and you can keep the butyl from turning.
You could also seal them with 5200.
NOT a good idea. 5200 is SATAN'S GLUE and is a b*tch to remove. It's only use on a boat is the hull to deck joint.
Haha. I understand. It is my last choice! It can be removed though. I have done it. It is not a myth! ...maybe.
Yeah, concrete will seal holes too, but that doesn't mean it is a good choice. 5200 is an adhesive more than it is a sealant. Better to use a product that is a sealant first and an adhesive second.
Oh my... you guys are really “stuck” on this! YES... butyl is best! I am bedding new deck hardware this week... by properly potting and bedding with butyl... I PROMISE! Really... I do! If I don’t, you can discontinue my subscription to Practical Sailor!
So... how should the OP not twist the butyl when he inserts the wood screws?... huh?
So... how should the OP not twist the butyl when he inserts the wood screws?... huh?
5200 is a four letter word. It is used by "adolescent phase" boat repair who believe everything is permanent and more is always better. Stu is right, as usual, it is only for hull to deck and no where else.
If concerned about buytl use Boatlife caulk above waterline.
Pratical Sailor has you on their radar
If concerned about buytl use Boatlife caulk above waterline.
Pratical Sailor has you on their radar
Hold the screw still and turn the boat?
Because butyl remains sticky it will re-adhere to the screw. The stuff flows for years, ask anyone who owns an older Sabre, the hull deck joint was sealed with butyl and it oozes out for years. If there is enough butyl water can't get to the screw hole.
That's one opinion.
Alternative views:
https://marinehowto.com/bed-it-tape/ (scroll down towards the bottom)
http://stevedmarineconsulting.com/caulk-and-sealant-selection-and-use/
Actually, I have a MultiMax with a blade that goes right through 5200. Y’all don’t scare me!
Just the same, I think the butyl will survive being twisted by the screw. I cannot think of another way short of switching to nuts and bolts.
Just the same, I think the butyl will survive being twisted by the screw. I cannot think of another way short of switching to nuts and bolts.