windlass electrical issue

[Michel C]

I need help. I have tested the windlass motor directly to a 12v battery and it runs
I've tested the power from the battery to the LEWMAR 0052507 52507 12V SOLENOID DUAL DIRECTION and it's perfect.
here's the problem.
When I step on either the up or down button, the power drops to the negatives and the motor turns oh so slightly. a little bit at a time. I believe it's the solenoid but would like to hear from others who may have had a similar issue. I just want to make sure before I drop $$$
thanks

 

[jviss]

Sounds like the solenoid to me. Could be the connections, though. How did they look?

 

[jviss]

...then again, it could be that your batteries are shot; or, there's high resistance in the cables and/or connections from the battery to solenoid.

 

[dugsmith98]

Dealing with the exact same situation on my Beneteau 393. I changed out the stock alternator on my Westerbeke to a Balmar 80A with an ARS regulator. Both are working great but the only thing is my windlass doesn't stay energized. It will pulse in either direction and stop.
I offer this, since I then replaced the solenoid, $200, and it is the same. I was able to bypass the 'engine running' relay, which prevents using the windlass unless the engine is running, and it then worked. It is just a simple jumper wire, and easy to do. Then I figured the relay was the problem, so I replaced that. Still didn't change it. I figure my 12 V 'engine running' relay is getting its supply voltage from the alternator field and this causes it to drop voltage when I energize the windlass. Not sure. Batteries are new, as well.
Currently, I have left the jumper in place, so I can use the windlass, and only use the windlass when the engine is running anyway.
Checked connections and all appear okay, w no corrosion or play in them. Ready for someone to help solve this puzzle.

 

[MitchM]

is it possible that corrosion has reduced the amps flowing in to the windlass motor so even though your voltage is fine, your amps are not sufficient to properly run the windlass motor ? can you check the current going in to the + terminal of your motor with a DC clamp on VOA meter ? my windlass has a 250 amp fuse on it and i suspect if i lost 75 amps to corroded terminals the current would not energize the motor.

 

[LeslieTroyer]

Use the battery and cables in the "direct" test but connect to the selonoid. That will tell you where. The problem is

 

[jviss]

Windlasses draw a lot of current, peaking momentarily near 300 A (not long enough to pop the breaker), but running up close to 100 A. Even a tiny bit of resistance in the wiring can result in enough voltage drop that there's insufficient voltage to operate the motor. And, this resistance will generate heat, which could cause a fire.

Check everything! Note that at 100A, you will drop 12V through 120mΩ, that is, 0.120Ω. Check all the connections, all of the wire, the breaker, the relays, etc.

 

[JamesG161]

When I step on either the up or down button, the power drops to the negatives and the motor turns oh so slightly.

Mine did the same and was about to order a new contactor when my helper said...

"Is this big Red Wire supposed to be lose?"

All of the comments above comments are possible too.

My Windlass breaker is 90 Amp and the wire [gauge 0/2] is 28' long from Starter Battery [ High Cold Crank Amperage ] to the contactor.
Jim...

 

[Velero49]

I had a similar problem, the winlass worked 50% of the ime. I took the motor to a shop and it was ok (the have unlimited amps), I wanted to replace the motor but instead took the motor appart and found that one of the brushes was locked in the retracted position, I probably overloaded the motor sometime ago. I pushed back out and now it works great. Check you brushes!!

 

[Michel C]

Thanks for the great replies.
All systems and wires checked so now I must order a new solenoid.
thanks

 

[NotCook]

We had to replace one of our bowthruster joysticks several years back. In our case, it was completely dead, unlike your slow motor turn, so you may not have the same issue, but make sure you check the buttons/switch before you order the solenoid. Our joystick was insanely expensive. Hopefully button switches aren't so bad.