Stripping wood.....
- Thread starter NYSail
- Start date
One problem with chemical strippers is you don't want to remove the oils in the wood. I've always sanded, but there is a finite number of times you can sand it before the wood is too worn away. Heat and scrape can reduce the amount of sanding greatly.
I'm guessing someone has found a good chemical method, but not me.
Ken
I'm guessing someone has found a good chemical method, but not me.
Ken
I always use a heat gun and a Bahco/Sandvik carbide scraper. Scraper never gets dull. Did a whole 14' dinghy, decks and interior, and used the same blade on my Force 5 foils this past weekend. https://www.jamestowndistributors.c...5&familyName=Bahco+/+Sandvik+Ergo+Scraper+650
I've used Blue Bear Soy Gel (formerly know as Franmar's Soy Strip) to strip a teak drink holder. Works well, it is safe and environmentally friendly. However, it does raise the grain and requires light sanding afterwards.
For larger items or places where there are not a lot of nooks and crannies (like in a drink holder) a heat gun and scrapper probably works as well with less clean up and sanding later.
For larger items or places where there are not a lot of nooks and crannies (like in a drink holder) a heat gun and scrapper probably works as well with less clean up and sanding later.
I think the heat gun is the easiest and safest to use. This is an 55 year old piece of mahogany (from my 55 year old boat). I used a heat gun and scraper to remove the varnish(quick-10 minutes easy work). Then a quick sanding with a RO sander and 80 grit paper(no finer). The red arrow is where I ripped it in half to compare the two.
Next a filler stain, a couple sealer coats, and two coats of varnish. Just one touch sand between coats. This was an experiment to see how different stains looked. This was an easy test with a flat piece of wood on saw horses. I was pleased with the results. If your piece is harder because of location or shape, then maybe a chemical remover would be better.
I've had good results using Citristrip. It's especially good because it doesn't stink like some other chemical strippers. It almost smells delicious. Don't rush the process. Give it time to work and it's very effective at removing multiple layers of varnish in a single application. My other choice would be the soy based chemical stripper that dlochner recommended in a previous post. Use plastic scrapers with the corners rounded slightly to avoid gouging the wood. For small areas, I like to use plastic double edged razor blade scrapers which come with a convienent holder.
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rough with 80 or 60, stripper on top, once your near the last layer, strip with sander 100g
Thats what i have found to be the best
Thats what i have found to be the best
I've had very good success with a combination of electric heat gun and Citristrip. Start with the heat gun exercising caution not to overheat and burn the teak wood. Use the Citristrip to "clean up" the stripped area. Follow the Citristrip with a wipe down using Acetone. Follow this by light sanding with 240-320 grit paper. Clean again with Acetone just before applied varnish. Between coats lightly sand with 400-600 grit sandpaper and continue to clean with Acetone each time before applying varnish or your preferred finish.
Nitromoors non caustic varnish stripper works well and should not harm the GRP. This can be brushed on and left for a short period before washing off with plenty of fresh water. The teak surface can then be lightly sanded once dry. Our teak covered cockpit benches, which were varnished, now look very natural greying teak finish.
I was an antique furniture restorer/conservator, for many years. Here are a few finishing pointers:
-Never, ever, use a sander: you'll screw up the wood; let chemicals do the work for you.
-People rarely remove all traces of the original finish when stripping and sanding, which will compromise the finished work considerably.
There is no need to sand. Black stains can be removed with oxalic acid, and or, the colour of the wood can be removed using a two-part A/B bleach.
-There is no need to stain wood that is high in tannin (Mahogany, Oak, Teak,). If you've sanded the wood unevenly (very common), the dye penetration will be uneven, leaving you with a blotchy effect.
-An application of boiled linseed oil will change the colour of the wood correctly and evenly, and give the grain an incredible pop when finished with lacquer...or shellac if the wood will not be exposed to the elements.
-If you should decide to colour the wood, use an aniline dye, as they are easier to control in terms of colour matching.
-When stripping an old finish, use the original solvent. In this case, lacquer thinner. Shellac is removed using methyl hydrate.
-The only time it is necessary to completely strip a finish is if the finish has perished, or if there is a need for a major repair to the wood.
-Old finishes can be reamalgamated, either by padding on more lacquer, or padding on some solvent. A reamalgamated finish will look brand new.
-Professional results are easily obtained by padding vs. spraying or brushing.
-I cringe at what people do to their wood on their boats.
Um... did you say, "foils?"
... as in foiling?I would like a picture of them! It sounds very cool!
It is a cinch. You have to be careful not to scorch the wood. If you're new to using a heat gun, start at a lower setting until you get the hang of it. On my Makita heat gun, I set it around 4 or less (5 max).
Rudder and dagger/centerboard are generally call "foils," because they are (or should be) airfoil shaped, to some flavor of NACA. If you were to be looking for a bag to put your Laser daggerboard and rudder into, you'd be Googling "Laser foil bag" or your favo place to get stuff would call it a foil bag. But, no, not a foiling setup for the Force 5.Um... did you say, "foils?"
I would like a picture of them! It sounds very cool!
HOWEVER!!!!!!
www.glidefree.com.au does make and sell a foiling kit for the Laser. I know of a guy who used to race Lasers a lot and who is familiar with the Force 5. I asked if he thought the Glide Free setup would work on the Force 5, and he has spoken with the guy from Glide Free. He said he was cool, and if I was really interested to shout out to Glide Free, and they may know. Last I checked, the cost of a foiling kit was $5,000
and the winds of my home waters are way too fluky to allow for consistent flying. I'd still be lowriding most of the time. $5K for a novelty is not in the cards, 'cos Papa needs 200 amp service at the house, central A/C, electric run to the garage, and a backyard deck. Oh, and a new jib for the O'day. So, yeah, many more priorities... Heck, if I sailed in a place with enough room and consistent stronger winds, what I ought to do is buy a UFO for $7600: http://www.fulcrumspeedworks.com/UFO/