I was wondering if anyone could recommend a good way to connect the tiller and outboard on an H240 to improve steering. There are so many different products that it's hard to know what works.
Do you leave that permanently attached? And does it alleviate the need for a prop guard? It sure seems like there's a lot of evil just waiting to happen back there... I'll have to consider this.This is what I use on my H260. Works a treat!
Oh right. I guess I was thinking that if you keep the motor and the tiller parallel, the prop won't ever try to eat the rudder. Hence, no need for a guard!It's installed way above the waterline.
Thanks Fred: I'll look over the tiller arm and see if there is a way to attach.rgranger...
Not sure. I bought the Yamaha last year and decided on the remote control version which has the attachment point for the steering arm and purchased the friction brake as an option. I suspect that this could be made to work if you can find a place to attach the lever arm. Maybe a simple clamp/strap on to the handle on the motor.
I purchased the power tilt option as well. So far I am very happy with my choices. Remote control makes things a lot easier when docking since I don't have to turn around or reach too far down to control the throttle and shifter. The power tilt (with electric start) makes it much easier when single handing. I can easily change over from motoring to sailing and back. My wife actually pushed me to the power tilt since she could not lift and lower the motor if I were incapacitated.
Do you have any pictures?I built a connection rod with quick disconnects at each end and attached mine to the front side of the rudder post with an L bracket clamped using stainless hose clamps. As CAVERUN suspected in his post, the range of motion is minimal because the turning radius is too small from the front side of the rudder post to have much effect on the outboard. There isn't a good way that I can figure out how to attach the connection rod to the outboard at the center of its turning point. I moved my connection point to the back of the motor leg and back of the rudder housing; which worked better for getting more movement in the outboard. I used a piece of aluminum angle with a hole drilled which I bolted to the rudder housing utilizing the hinge bolt as a connection. The angle prevented the rudder from completely turning to the starboard, so I cut away enough of it to allow for rudder swing. When I did that, the aluminum was too soft and bent too easily when turning the outboard. I just moved it back to the front connection where I began. Even though it doesn't allow for a lot of motor movement, it does help, and it is in the right direction instead of me trying to control the motor and tiller individually.
Huh! I like it because it looks like your heating water with it. Nothing like a hot shower. Seriously, I would have to CAD this thing up, then model it, then agonize over the proper materials and construction, and eventually - never get to it. Ah, the simple beauty of copper... Nice!I soldered some 1/2" copper pipe
Tell everyone you figured out how to extract the ethanol out of your gas.Here in Kentucky everybody would think you are making moonshine