Rudder/Outboard Control

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J

Jeff

I would like to conect my rudder to my outboard and be able to steer the boat with the tiller,(Hunter 20, Johnson 6hp )any ideas?
 
R

Robert Avent

No problem mon.

Most folks just lock the outboard straight ahead(there is an adjustment on the outboard to do this) and steer with the tiller.
 
M

Michael Carter

If you want to spend $$$

I have the EZ Steer, and it works great. Easy to install, and instantly removable when you don't need it (tilting the engine, etc.). The only drawback is it is not cheap. West marine among others carry it for about $200. You can fabricate something out of bimini hardware for less $$$ if you are handy. Michael C. H26
 
Jan 22, 2003
744
Hunter 25_73-83 Burlington NJ
Cheapest alternative.

Lash the tiller or fit it with a extension that can be set into a chick to hold the rudder on center and then steer with the outboard. This is the standard arrangement-- which works for a reason, because it makes sense. Believe me-- I thought of the same thing and could not come up with anything that would work better than what I already have. I have a Hunter 25 Mk 1 which is notorious for having trouble reversing, and this is still the way it works best. (However I do want a block-and-tackle assist for pulling the outboard and bracket up.) JC
 
Aug 11, 2006
1,446
Hunter H260 Traverse City
This is interesting. Just bought Hunter23 last year.I am learning all about this boat through this website and from hands on experience.Having never been taught, I assumed keeping motor straight and steering with tiller was right, and seemed to work well with me. Reading J. Cherubini's response will cause me to reconcider. I will try his method this weekend. This site is the greatest, thanks
 
M

Mike

A little less $$$ than EZ steer

is a link from Marine Tech (aka Panther)model 55-2600 SS ($49) or in zinc for $24. I bought mine from cabela's and it is the perfect length for linking my Honda 9.9 to the rudder post of my H240, so I guess similar for you. Some fabrication required for the rudder post, but I bought the motor bracket from Honda. Of all my recent projects, linking the rudder to the engine is far and away the most useful. I wish I had gotten remote controls as well, as it is expensive to add later.
 
R

Ralph Regar

Check the Archives

This subject has been discussed several times previously. You can find examples of how others made the rudder-to-outboard connection, complete with photos, in the Archives. This is what I did and came up with a less than $30 solution that works great. Ralph S/V Shambala
 
B

Bob Kalisz

Questions for Mike

Mike, what kind of modifications did you have to make to attach to the rudder post? What kind of connector did you get from Honda? Cost? Degree of difficulty? Can it be done "on the water"? I have a Honda 8hp engine. Bob Kalisz s/v Alrightie Then
 
M

Mike

Bob,

From a Honda dealer I ordered steering extension plate p/n 53234-ZW9-830, which was $22.30. Fits the BF8D/9.9D according to Honda's web site. You don't need anything else from Honda - I got sold mounting hardware which is unused. The ball stud supplied with the steering link has the same thread and either of two holes on the plate may be used, but I drilled and tapped a third closer to the pivot point of the motor since there is a short radius to the rudder post attachment. You can get away without any fabrication by putting a 5" long 1/2" bolt through the hole in the rudder post and using the hardware supplied with the link as posted here (link below). This was the basis for my project, and it looks like the MarineTech link as well. I tried the bolt but thought the fitting would spin, so I bent-up an aluminum plate to attach to the back of the rudder post, held in place by a U-bolt around the post. This is kept from turning by the head of a screw which fits into the rudder post hole. The ball-stud is then bolted to this plate (see photo, which really doesn't show it very well). This is a pretty easy job but it might be tough getting to the motor bracket bolts on the water (two existing bolts that hold the tiller on are removed to install the bracket). If you go with the zinc link you are spending less than $50 ($75 total for SS) and this is one of the best mods you can make to improve the steering. I have a lot more confidence when docking with this get-up.
 
B

Bob Kalisz

Thanks Mike

Mike, thanks so much for the information and the great picture. Certainly looks doable. I will wait until the season is over and Alrightie Then is in the back yard. I like the controls hooked to the rudder post rather than the rudder like the e/z steer system. Bob
 
J

Jeff

Thanks to all

Thanks for all the input, I found some good pictures in the forum, and am sure I can fabricate something to work.
 
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