Windlass power wiring

[gettinthere]

Getting ready to wire a new Lofrans Tigress windlass. It is rated to draw 1500w at 12v. My calc says that is about 180 amps. Calders book has a chart for ABYC standards that says I need 2 gauge wire for my run. I estimate I need 50' so I probably need 60' so I'm buying 70'. Lofrans website also says 2 gauge wire. Should I doubt this wire sizing?
Alternator can put out 40 to 50 amps at idle and I have a 750 a/h house bank.

The Lofrans wiring diagram shows a circuit breaker in the power feed. I will be pulling from the main buss bar. I can add a fuse there but might tripping be an issue? Hate to be fumbling with blown fuses. Should I add a resettable breaker near the battery bank? Size?

I will be installing foot switches that will be electrically within 5' and an up/down momentary toggle switch at the helm pedestal which will be a run of about 40'. Is 12 gauge enough for that run to the helm toggle switch? Can I use smaller? It will be a very tight fit thru the pedestal guard.

 

[Maine Sail]

1500W / 12V = 125A

Windlass performance is directly related to the voltage at the motor end. Most windlass manufacturers size for a 10% voltage drop. In my experience this saves the customer money, so they don't get scared off the windlass purchase, but it really inhibits your windlass performance and makes the windlass a rather lethargic performer. I prefer to see voltage drops in windlass circuits of 5% or less. We also need to keep in mind that its not just the wire length that adds to the voltage drop but every fuse, termination etc.. Aiming for a 10% voltage drop, based on wire only sizing, usually lands you closer to 11 or 12%

A 60' round trip circuit at 125A with a 10% Voltage Drop is 1GA wire

If I were wiring that windlass it would get at least 2/0 but most likely 4/0..

 

[SEMPERAVANTI41]

I have wired my windlass with:
Anchor Remote Windlass Wireless Switch Boat Sail Trim Controller
available from Amazon. Works well and also gives you control at windlass without using foot switch. I agree it's a tight fit to get wiring up pedestal, remote will be a much easier install. Hunter is wired from factory with circuit breaker, no fuses. If I ever have to replace my windlass would increase to 1500 watt unit.

 

[gettinthere]

1500W / 12V = 125A

Windlass performance is directly related to the voltage at the motor end. Most windlass manufacturers size for a 10% voltage drop. In my experience this saves the customer money, so they don't get scared off the windlass purchase, but it really inhibits your windlass performance and makes the windlass a rather lethargic performer. I prefer to see voltage drops in windlass circuits of 5% or less. We also need to keep in mind that its not just the wire length that adds to the voltage drop but every fuse, termination etc.. Aiming for a 10% voltage drop, based on wire only sizing, usually lands you closer to 11 or 12%

A 60' round trip circuit at 125A with a 10% Voltage Drop is 1GA wire

If I were wiring that windlass it would get at least 2/0 but most likely 4/0..

I was seriously considering double ought from the beginning

Circuit Breaker?

 

[gettinthere]

I have wired my windlass with:
Anchor Remote Windlass Wireless Switch Boat Sail Trim Controller
available from Amazon. Works well and also gives you control at windlass without using foot switch. I agree it's a tight fit to get wiring up pedestal, remote will be a much easier install. Hunter is wired from factory with circuit breaker, no fuses. If I ever have to replace my windlass would increase to 1500 watt unit.

How long have you had this? How long does the charge last?
I can see putting one at the pedestal and one in my pocket as an alternate to the foot switches.

Thanx!

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

If you handle your windlass sensibly, you'll have no problems.

1. Don't use it to break out the anchor. Let the boat mass do it.
2. Make sure you're alternator is running at a good speed before you start hoisting the anchor. This will give you a good starting voltage so that it's dropped to about 12V by the time it gets to the motor.

If you want to operate it like a powerboater, 2/0 is probably a better size.

Is 12 gauge enough for that run to the helm toggle switch? Can I use smaller? It will be a very tight fit thru the pedestal guard.

The solenoid only draws an amp or two. I ran mine with #16 and a 3A fuse to protect the solenoid. No problems with control.

 

[Gunni]

If you have the wiring Ralph shows you can install a Lewmar wireless remote in addition to the foot switches and forget about the wire run from the helm.

 

[Ron20324]

I ran the wire from helm to relay in the vee . As mentioned, it is a low-amp circuit, so I picked up 12v from the helm wiring, so ran only the 2 pos 14 ga feeds to the relay. It saved one 14 ga wire, but considering the total cost.....

 

[SEMPERAVANTI41]

Gettinthere, the remotes use regular batteries (don't remember what size). I installed last year and batteries still good. As you only transmit for a short time, battery life should not be a problem. The receiver is wired to the windlass so no external battery is required for it.

We have one of the remotes on a lanyard. When going forward to retrieve the anchor it's right where you need it. Also the kit comes with a holder for the remote which you can mount on the helm.

 

[LeslieTroyer]

I have a teathered switch and was going to add a wired switch @ the helm but went with a no-name Jeep winch wireless switch under $15 with two remotes.

 

[sailme88]

I mounted the windlass battery under the v-berth and removed storage items of equal weight. Then I only had a short run of heavy ga wire. Charging wire, because it's a slower and lower process doesn't need the heavy gauge ( witness battery tender leads) saves all sorts of headaches

 

[gettinthere]

I mounted the windlass battery under the v-berth and removed storage items of equal weight. Then I only had a short run of heavy ga wire. Charging wire, because it's a slower and lower process doesn't need the heavy gauge ( witness battery tender leads) saves all sorts of headaches

My windlass will draw up to 125 amps. Not sure about adding another battery bank to handle that. I cruise full time so it will get a lot of work.

 

[Maine Sail]

My windlass will draw up to 125 amps. Not sure about adding another battery bank to handle that. I cruise full time so it will get a lot of work.

On your boat I would strongly urge against adding a bow bank. Properly sized wire, off a large house bank like yours, will yield the best performance and not require carrying around all that extra dead lead that is not effectively being used. To do a bow bank correctly, most are not done correctly, becomes more expensive than the correct right wire. There does come a vessel size point in which a bow bank becomes necessary, but you still need heavy charging cables up there to do the job correctly...

Keep in mind that your windlass can draw more than the face value 125A when loaded. Windlass manufacturers are famous for stating "nominal" or calling it "normal current draw" but then not specifying the "under load" figures.

For example last fall I was testing a customers Lewmar 1000W windlass and using Ohm's law 1000W/12V = 83.3A However a DC motor, when loaded, can draw more than the "normal" unloaded rating would suggest. Lewmar specs a "normal current draw" of 85A. Start-up current (Fluke 376) was 295A (more than 3X nominal). The current drawn, when simply lifting the 44 pound anchor and chain, straight up from a 40' depth, (not unsetting it just lifting it through the water) was pretty steady at 122-126A. This for a motor Lewmar says only has an 85A "normal current draw"...

 

[Gunni]

Maine;
I have a Lewmar H3 windlass (1000W) rated at 85A connected to a 90A Lewmar breaker. It replaced a similar Simpson Lawrence windlass. I never have a problem with windlass, breaker or performance. It reels chain right on spec. Pulls like a bull. I assume that the breaker has an ability to take transitory higher amp loads...or something.

 

[sailme88]

Gunni, AMPS = heat. Heat is the decider if a breaker trips. Premature trips are always on the table. Delayed trips are an issue. Some breakers to allow for surge. But when the spring heats up it must trip lest you suffer an arc fault.

 

[Gunni]

It is all a black art to me ! I assume that having what looks like 4/0 wire helps with that whole heat thing.

 

[Gunni]

So I checked and in fact I kept the previous S-L windlass Blue Seas breaker and it now controls my Lewmar H3 1000W rated windlass. The Blue Seas is rated 75A. I work my windlass from the bow, so when it stalls, I let up off the power button and let the boat sail forward or pump the rode.

 

[jssailem]

Gunni... If it is 4/0 wire It should for sure help with electrical current heat and voltage drop.

• 4/0 or 0000 wire - Conductor Diameter 11.684 mm or 0.46 in
• Maximum amps for chassis wiring = 380
• Maximum amps for power transmission = 302

Like you use plan. I find the same method workable, but I'm using a manual windlass.

 

[mcrow33]

Hi, I'm in the process of installing a Lofrans 1000w windlass. I'm running 2/0 cable from the house bank to the windlass. I will also need 12v for the solenoid and remote switch. Can I get that from the main 2/0 cable or do I need to run a separate wire for the additional power. Looking at Ralph wire diagram, it looks like he tapped off from the main power cable.

Thanks,

 

[gettinthere]

Thats how I'm about to do it, tap off the main 00 cables