Windlass power wiring

[Ralph Johnstone]

Looking at Ralph wire diagram, it looks like he tapped off from the main power cable.

Actually, that is the wiring diagram from the Lewmar installation instructions.

Here's my as-built wiring.

Seeing as I already had a 5A breaker for the windlass on my panel, I thought I'd use it as a separate source but inserted the 3A fuse as instructed.

a Lofrans 1000w windlass. I'm running 2/0 cable from the house bank to the windlass.

What voltage drop are you looking for with a cable that large and 83A ? I got away with #2 AWG with a calculated loss of roughly 1.0V Maybe I was just lucky with a short run from the batteries to the windlass.

 

[Gunni]

I will also need 12v for the solenoid and remote switch. Can I get that from the main 2/0 cable or do I need to run a separate wire for the additional power. Looking at Ralph wire diagram, it looks like he tapped off from the main power cable.

Short answer is yes you can stack the windlass switch supply (3 amp) at the solenoid buss. No need to run a wire the length of t he boat. Ralph already had a wire run from his ships panel so he apparently used that.

Best practice is to kill the windlass at the 90 amp breaker when not in use.

 

[mcrow33]

Based on the calculator I used I should see a voltage drop of .053v. I have a run of about 40' from the battery to the windlass. The windlass manual said the amp draw can be between 70 - 110A. They recommend a 100A breaker. I also based my wire size based on comments made by Maine Sail earlier in this post.

 

[gettinthere]

interesting side note to my installation. There is absolutely no way to get 00 wire into my Lofrans tigress motor. The case is way too tight to allow it. Lofrans specs 2 gauge and that looks tight. luckily, I put the control box just a foot away so the light weight wire will be very short. really poor case design.

 

[Ron20324]

+1 to picking up switch power at the solenoid. I out a up-down rocker at the helm, and used a +12 from the instrument power. That way, it only took a 2-wired cable to the solenoid.

To each his own, but I would never cut off power to the windlass. In an emergency you might not have time to go below to find the switch. I was on the ICW on an IP38 when the engine died as we approached a closed bridge. I scrambled to the bow even though the skipper said we're not going to drop the anchor. I bet we would have if the engine did not restart. It did that time, but you just never know.

 

[Davidasailor26]

Our windlass won't work unless the engine is running, or at least the ignition is on. In an emergency though the windlass can be quickly disengaged with a winch handle stored in the anchor locker. That allows the rode to run free.

 

[Noyrt]

Read this thread,, but need some help still in choosing a correct power windlass. Any help appreciated... Here is what we have. Spencer 44 sailboat, approx 35,000 lbs displacement. 300' of 5/16" chain to a 65 lb anchor. (currently have manual windlass). Trying to choose what electric windlass to buy, and what power requirments needed to run it... Power we have: total of 6 batteries, (3 separate banks) to include.... 1 engine battery(cheap crap-wet battery), 1 generator battery (cheap crap-wet battery), and house bank of 4 AGM's (approx 400 ah). The AGM's were about 8 years old when we got the boat, work fine for the house batteries, but don't seem to charge to rated capacity. Usually only about 12.4 or 12.5 after charging.
Boat has a West Marine battery bank isolator (blue box) that combines all three banks to allow the charger or alternator to charge all banks, but only draws from selected bank. I know the basics, but hard to decide what to buy and if I can use the batteries we have or add another battery up forward and wire it to the existing bank, or separately. (we have a good place to mount the battery up front) and our current windlass is about 10' back from the bow of the boat, nearly in line with the main mast, where the chain comes down into the locker.
I'm thinking at least a 1500 watt (12v / 125A) windlass, maybe adding an 8A4D (heavy duty DEKA) battery to run it... then just add the 6 or 8 gauge wires for charging to my current isolator? Or I would have to run the heavy wires to one of the other banks to add the battery. Also this battery is 127lbs... so that is a concern also, but we really need to weight on the right side of the boat,... It is heavy on the left too much already.

Basically trying to figure out what windlass to buy, then work on putting the pieces together after getting the beast. Thank you,, Noyrt...

 

[LeslieTroyer]

Whatever you get (I like Lewmar V3) be sure and get one with chain gipsy and drum for secondary anchor or pulling your inflatable on deck (or skipper up the mast).

Also after the pendant or foot switches get a $10 wireless Jeep winch remote — so very handy while single handing.

Les

 

[Ron20324]

Noyrt, you should start your own thread on this.

 

[Noyrt]

Ok, thanks, will copy/paste to new thread...

 

[jssailem]

@Noyrt I selected the V3 Lewmar. 1000 W windlass.
@LeslieTroyer Helped me install it on my boat. We ran wire from bow to batteries in cabin about 20 feet. In test the unit did a great job raising and lowering chain.
It is worth your review. I purchased the windlass from SBO store. Great service fair price.