Well, you've done it again. First it was the gimbaled camera mount. Now it's the "Bat Light". ;-)
Help me pick a flashlight?
- Thread starter Gene Neill
- Start date
The trouble with a light THAT bright is the haze reflection sometimes obscures the image. Sometimes plain old 7x50 binos are the best thing, and you don't kill your night vision either.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 23,127
The positive thing about the focused beam is there is no stray light. As in halo light from an ordinary flash light. The white light works very much like a laser beam. Science involved is really quite cool.
I have two comments about flashlights not yet mentioned.
The least of which is finding a light with two brightness settings. Typically you have one good flashlight that you keep charged all the time, and it is your go to light. However what I have found is on the brightest setting, it can no be used for close work, as the reflection hurts your eyes and you can't see. So having a dim setting is important.
The second is: if it is rechargeable, you need to identify the type of Li-ion battery that is used. Most consumer flashlights will be cobalt because it has the greatest capacity, however it is the most fragile, and is most prone to overheating or fire hazard. These are commonly found in laptops and cellphones (and hoverboards) because of the higher capacity. We are also are very aware that if properly taken are of, they last about 3 to 5 years. Iron phosphate or LiFePO4 is less common because it has about 30% less capacity. However, they are much less prone to overheat and catch fire. They are much more forgiving about being overcharged, or over discharged. Its not uncommon to get 10 years or more life out of them. These are used in electric cars and some cordless tools. It can be very difficult to find out what type of Li-ion batteries are used without just opening up the pack and looking.
The least of which is finding a light with two brightness settings. Typically you have one good flashlight that you keep charged all the time, and it is your go to light. However what I have found is on the brightest setting, it can no be used for close work, as the reflection hurts your eyes and you can't see. So having a dim setting is important.
The second is: if it is rechargeable, you need to identify the type of Li-ion battery that is used. Most consumer flashlights will be cobalt because it has the greatest capacity, however it is the most fragile, and is most prone to overheating or fire hazard. These are commonly found in laptops and cellphones (and hoverboards) because of the higher capacity. We are also are very aware that if properly taken are of, they last about 3 to 5 years. Iron phosphate or LiFePO4 is less common because it has about 30% less capacity. However, they are much less prone to overheat and catch fire. They are much more forgiving about being overcharged, or over discharged. Its not uncommon to get 10 years or more life out of them. These are used in electric cars and some cordless tools. It can be very difficult to find out what type of Li-ion batteries are used without just opening up the pack and looking.
I have a couple of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F7PDJXS/
(I don't need to set the world on fire.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F7PDJXS/
(I don't need to set the world on fire.)
I have several of these.
Duracell Durabeem Ultra 1300 High Intensity LED Flashlight
I bought them when they were at Costco for $29
1300 Lumens is really bright.
Duracell Durabeem Ultra 1300 High Intensity LED Flashlight
I bought them when they were at Costco for $29
1300 Lumens is really bright.
I have had excellent performance from a relatively inexpensive (~$60 on Amazon) light - the Browning hunting spot light High Noon 4C. Easy draw on cheap C-cells, waterproof, Max. setting, 1000 lumens, 725 yardsSurpassingly focussed beam, little spread. And I like the pistol grip over a tube.
Lumens are not the entire story. A lumen is defined as a candela of visible light in an angle of one polar degree. But when a manufacturer reports lumens they factor in the entire dispersion vector. So a "dim" light shining in all directions (sphere) might actually be emitting more lumens than a tightley focused beam that seems brighter. Without a knowledge of the dispersion angle, a lumen count won't let you evaluate how bright the light is but only tells you how fast it will drain the batteries. The "correct" answer needs to take into account how you want to use the light. Gene (the OP) said he wants to be able to spot nav. markers down field. So a tight focused beam seems to be a better option.
We can get silly here....but markers downfield is exactly what I use the Browning for. It is a surprisingly focussed beam and at least works very well for me. PLUS - it is made in the U.S of A., not by state-controlled workers in the PRC.
Lumens or lux? Depends on the lit area.
The luminous flux ΦV in lumens (lm) is equal to 0.09290304 times the illuminance Ev in lux (lx) times 4 times pi times the squared sphere radius r in feet (ft): ΦV(lm) = 0.09290304× Ev(lx)×4⋅π⋅r(ft)2
Lumens or lux? Depends on the lit area.
The luminous flux ΦV in lumens (lm) is equal to 0.09290304 times the illuminance Ev in lux (lx) times 4 times pi times the squared sphere radius r in feet (ft): ΦV(lm) = 0.09290304× Ev(lx)×4⋅π⋅r(ft)2
We probably have 20 flashlights onboard. All are really nice for the first few weeks, but then various problems develop that make them less than useful.
I got a tactical squad light that was way bright for around the boat, but the charger seems to be dying, so it's a really cool looking black thing now. Half a dozen cheap aluminum ones that still work OK, but at the prices for batteries down here, 4 AAA's for each is not very affordable. A couple of much more expensive ones ($30.00) are still quite usable, though from time to time they need some clean up in the battery compartment and at the switch. I did start lining the aluminum ones with a plastic liner made from cheap plastic place mats and that has lessened the internal corrosion to almost nil.
The Blackfire Clamp Light IPX7 is pretty handy with a clamp and tilting head, but no good outdoors as a search light. All the alkaline battery headlights we had onboard died, but a rechargeable one is still functioning well, but it is only months old.
The only light we have aboard that actually does it's job (completely maintenance free) as I would expect, is our rechargeable QBeam Blue Max Marine searchlight. It weighs a ton but it projects a good bit of light a great distance. We've lit the shore in most anchorages we visit and we do not anchor particularly close to shore. No problem lighting up marks, trap buoys or anchored boats at a distance they can be easily avoided.
It's also a gas to use when feeding the fish our leftovers at anchor, lighting down to 30 feet or more and across the anchorage to pester the needle fish.
My next research project, if the West Indian internet allows, is into the lithium ion rechargeable batteries in AA and AAA sizes. From what little I've read so for, they seem way too good to be true.
I got a tactical squad light that was way bright for around the boat, but the charger seems to be dying, so it's a really cool looking black thing now. Half a dozen cheap aluminum ones that still work OK, but at the prices for batteries down here, 4 AAA's for each is not very affordable. A couple of much more expensive ones ($30.00) are still quite usable, though from time to time they need some clean up in the battery compartment and at the switch. I did start lining the aluminum ones with a plastic liner made from cheap plastic place mats and that has lessened the internal corrosion to almost nil.
The Blackfire Clamp Light IPX7 is pretty handy with a clamp and tilting head, but no good outdoors as a search light. All the alkaline battery headlights we had onboard died, but a rechargeable one is still functioning well, but it is only months old.
The only light we have aboard that actually does it's job (completely maintenance free) as I would expect, is our rechargeable QBeam Blue Max Marine searchlight. It weighs a ton but it projects a good bit of light a great distance. We've lit the shore in most anchorages we visit and we do not anchor particularly close to shore. No problem lighting up marks, trap buoys or anchored boats at a distance they can be easily avoided.
It's also a gas to use when feeding the fish our leftovers at anchor, lighting down to 30 feet or more and across the anchorage to pester the needle fish.
My next research project, if the West Indian internet allows, is into the lithium ion rechargeable batteries in AA and AAA sizes. From what little I've read so for, they seem way too good to be true.
Not to totally highjack the thread, but I've always wondered about a flashlight as a weapon. Hit someone in the eyes with it, and you totally blind them to the point where you could escape or act in your own defense.
This is what I use. 4AA's and 1150 lumen.
https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-TN4A-CW-Flashlight-Batteries/dp/B00QAHI4RS
https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-TN4A-CW-Flashlight-Batteries/dp/B00QAHI4RS
Exactly. That's why the Marinebeam LRT is so amazing. Using its LRT technology, it has 0% spillover, and in its very narrow 4 degree beam it gets a mind-bending 120,000 candela out of a 600 lumen LED! Thats only possible using the recycled light technology. And its designed, and made in the USA.
Funny you say that. The RLT patented technology in the Marinebeam light is also used in M/P gear.
