Feeding rode down a hawse ... manually?

flagbag · Feb 17, 2017

Sure you'll come up good ideas. my only input comes from the way my Hunter 22 chain locker drains... it drains right out a hole the bow. This keeps water out of boat and bilge so not create moisture problems or opportunity for flooding. Fair Winds!

Michael Davis · Feb 17, 2017

I'd go with the outboard drain too. How much fall will you have once the rode is in the hawse? If insufficient fall the rode will just bunch up. May be better to build a locker as per Catalina, Ericson etc.

Johnb · Feb 17, 2017

+1 for not having the slimy clay, sand, salt water and whatever going into the boat. Back at the dock you can give it a nice fresh water rinse and it all goes overboard.

Crazy Dave Condon · Feb 18, 2017

Gene;
I use to be a long time Catalina dealer who for years took the small boats along with the Hunters to Annapolis. In fact, Frank Butler, would ask me my thoughts on the small boats and learned later I was the only dealer whom he sought advice on small boats.
What year is your boat, swing keel or wing keel, anchor locker or any other data. can you take a photo of your boat specifically the bow and also forward in the V berth. It has been a long time since I was on one and being refreshed will help my mind. Feel free to private email me.

centerline · Feb 18, 2017

Gene Neill said:
There's only 29" maximum drop.

Yep, definitely a good point about the drain. I really wasn't thinking when I said bilge.

that is plenty of drop.... the issue with manually feeding a small hawse pipe isnt the size of the opening as much as it is the angle of the walls of the pipe as the line leads into it.... if the hawse pipe has straight walls, as most of them do, as the swaying rope goes into the pipe it will have friction as it contacts the lip of the pipe, the more swaying the rope has, the greater the friction will be, until the slack of the rope falls on the deck rather than being pulled down the hole by the rope that went in before it....
but if one had a hawse pipe shaped more like a funnel, the swaying rope wont have nearly as much friction as it contacts the side of the entry point, and at the same time it will take a lot more swaying of the rope to make it lay completely to the side and stop going into the hole. so it remains in position so that it continues to be led into the locker...

below is a drawing that shows the problem of a straight sided hawse pipe... the funnel shaped pipe can be overcome also, but it takes a lot more sway inertia in the rope to do it..

below that is a pic of the custom hawse pipes I made with the funnel shape... the lip of the "funnel" is in such a position that a link of chain wont hang on it, and neither will the rope... and the pipes are large enough to pass a shackle without hanging up.....
even though these are below the anchor locker cover and so dont get spray in them, I made canvas covers with elastic in them (similar to winch covers) to keep any bugs out.. stainless covers were an option but overkill for my use.
I find I dont use the covers anyway as the larger openings create better ventilation..

Gunni · Feb 18, 2017

I sailed a J40 for years that had a hawse pipe and no windlass. Developed a technique to extract the required amount of rode for the needed scope using the boat deck as a measure. Used triple braid with a short section of chain for that reason. Feeding it back into the locker was never much of an issue and I would often collect it to a bucket for later wash and stowing. The big challenge is figuring out where to stow your anchors. I would take a look at the Fortress and Mantus anchor sheaths, they attach to the pulpit, and both of those anchors can be disassembled and stowed below if needed. Suggest you put a gasketed plate over that opening into the forward locker.

rgranger · Feb 18, 2017

If you are using a mostly nylon rode you can feed it back to the cockpit and effectively use your winch as a windlass
Bring the anchor into a bow roller . Cleat it in place and deal with it and you rode once you are under way and no longer in a hurry.

David in Sandusky · Feb 19, 2017

I just installed a hawse pipe to the space forward of our v-berth on our h27. Concerns were 1. opening the hull to water in case of a capsize, and 2. odor from rotting of organic stuff on the rode.

1. Is a minimal risk while coastal cruising on the Great Lakes where there is always a safe harbor close enough to reach before waves can build to the 9 foot height needed to capsize us.
2. Has not been any problem so far. We mostly anchor in fresh water sand or mud - much less odor than we have smelled anchoring in salt water while chartering there.

Not enough water comes in on the rode to worry about. It drains to the bilge.

Our hawse is about 3 1/2 by 2 1/2 inches and is located well back from our bow roller, anchor, and chain stopper, and handling has been a dream. The rode goes right down the hawse as I haul it up hand over hand. My concerns from your picture are the small diameter of the hawse, its location looks awkward for easy feeding, and how are you intending to stow your anchor once it is up?

Good luck!

centerline · Feb 19, 2017

Gene Neill said:
Good points, David. The hawse is indeed about a foot forward from ideal. I had to go stand on deck and look at it, but yeah, you're right. I could move the hawse aft, but then I'd also have to move the cleat, which really can't afford to go further aft. I could get rid of the cleat (although I like it, I think it's distinctive) and put one cleat on each side like everybody else, and THEN move the hawse aft ...

As far as stowing the anchor, my intention is to build a sturdy bow roller, and keep it there.

BTW, the hawse is 1 5/8" ID. Should I consider replacing it with a larger one?

Gene, the hawse pipe doesnt have to be in the center, and if you were to have two anchor rodes at the bow, (with a split locker so they dont foul one another), having it offset to one side may be preferable so that the other one could be on the other side.

mine are 10" apart, center to center...

and the center cleat... yes, yes, keep it. its nice and big and in the right location. too many boats have too small of cleats on them, especially the bow cleat.... I think its because the big and proper ones are so expensive....

Ron20324 · Feb 19, 2017

OP, I'm not so sure about that "cleat". Handhold and brackets, it is just a shorter version of the handrail on my companionway steps. At the least, replace the wood with SS pipe if you want to secure your anchor&boat to it.

centerline · Feb 19, 2017

Ron20324 said:
OP, I'm not so sure about that "cleat". Handhold and brackets, it is just a shorter version of the handrail on my companionway steps. At the least, replace the wood with SS pipe if you want to secure your anchor&boat to it.

I agree with checking to make sure its secure enough to hold the full weight of the boat in any conditions, but if its good teak or oak wood, it will hold... I would be more concerned about the size, condition and number of fasteners holding it to the boat (with strong backing plates)....

manufactures can build enormously strong cleats that only have two securing bolts, but if one of the bolts tear out or fail, the other one will usually go within a second or two... 4 bolt cleats are more secure and are more highly recommended...

centerline · Feb 20, 2017

NOT a genius, but a Thinker...... sometimes I thing wrongly, but it hasnt slowed me down a bit

...
I split my forepeak rode locker the same way Greg Delezynski did on Guenevere (see his youtube video on what he did. He has MANY videos there)... Greg used to be a member here, but I cant find him by name or boat by name....

Delezynski · Jun 14, 2017

centerline said:
)... Greg used to be a member here, but I cant find him by name or boat by name....

I'm still here and still posting videos on Youtube. Just don't get here often.

Delezynski · Jun 14, 2017

THANKS!!!

Feeding rode down a hawse ... manually?

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