Thanks.
sorry, don't have a better picture at this time.
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is this keel servicable?
- Thread starter newsailor72
- Start date
Thanks.
sorry, don't have a better picture at this time.
I don't think you have lost a lot of mass. Grind it paint it good to go what about the rest of the boat
rest of the boat is in decent shape, been sitting for a few years, so dirty and some mole. fiberglass is still okay.
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That looks a lot like a Mac 22
Very fun little boats. The keel is in relatively good shape. It weighs about 600lb so be careful removing it. There are a lot of people here that have done this job (myself included) and we can talk you through it if you choose to get this boat.
Make sure the sails are in good shape.
Very fun little boats. The keel is in relatively good shape. It weighs about 600lb so be careful removing it. There are a lot of people here that have done this job (myself included) and we can talk you through it if you choose to get this boat.
Make sure the sails are in good shape.
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Here's a whole series of posts from TSBB showing how one guy redid his swing keel. Should give you some helpful info
http://forum.trailersailor.com/post.php?id=1397126fo
http://forum.trailersailor.com/post.php?id=1397971
http://forum.trailersailor.com/post.php?id=1399279
http://forum.trailersailor.com/post.php?id=1399893
http://forum.trailersailor.com/post.php?id=1397126fo
http://forum.trailersailor.com/post.php?id=1397971
http://forum.trailersailor.com/post.php?id=1399279
http://forum.trailersailor.com/post.php?id=1399893
With the Catalina 22 swing keel, I would not suggest the power washer inside. A good shop vac and a lot of elbow grease inside. I will let the others tell you what they think the best materials to use but suggest highly you use gloves and a mask.
Regarding the trailer, it appears the left or port side keel guide is bent. Striaghten it out if that is the case.
To do this properly, the keel has to come off via the hangers bolted in with stainless steel bolts that are probably held and caulked in with 5200 from the CA factory which has been shut down with production only in the FL plant only. California has too many stringent laws that all boat manufactures basically left years ago. I would replace those bolts if corroded.
Build a jig to lower the keel into and suggest a minimum of two people. Forgot the exact weight but it is heavy. At the same time inspect the keel cable and if necessary replace and the best place to get one is from Catalina Direct unless the forum store can help you. Catalina Direct is not affiliated with Catalina. I would wire brush or sand blast again using a mask at minimum. Then coat the entire metal when clean to bear metal with a metal primer that contains zinc chomate. Then fill in with two part epoxy all the voids and allow to dry and sand smooth. you may have to do this twice. I used a more costly product when I was a dealer called Water Tite but it was the best I found. Longer cure though but that was good. Then coat with barrier coats at least four coats and then apply bottom paint. As for bottom paint, ask locally what works best in your area from those very knowledgable.
Regarding the trailer, it appears the left or port side keel guide is bent. Striaghten it out if that is the case.
To do this properly, the keel has to come off via the hangers bolted in with stainless steel bolts that are probably held and caulked in with 5200 from the CA factory which has been shut down with production only in the FL plant only. California has too many stringent laws that all boat manufactures basically left years ago. I would replace those bolts if corroded.
Build a jig to lower the keel into and suggest a minimum of two people. Forgot the exact weight but it is heavy. At the same time inspect the keel cable and if necessary replace and the best place to get one is from Catalina Direct unless the forum store can help you. Catalina Direct is not affiliated with Catalina. I would wire brush or sand blast again using a mask at minimum. Then coat the entire metal when clean to bear metal with a metal primer that contains zinc chomate. Then fill in with two part epoxy all the voids and allow to dry and sand smooth. you may have to do this twice. I used a more costly product when I was a dealer called Water Tite but it was the best I found. Longer cure though but that was good. Then coat with barrier coats at least four coats and then apply bottom paint. As for bottom paint, ask locally what works best in your area from those very knowledgable.
To answer your question, the keel is serviceable and you just have to clean it up and paint it. It is the nature of the beast with a cast iron swing keel. Get used to that work as you will periodically have to do it over now and again (or hire a yard to do it for you). The Catalina 22 keel is attached with two bronze hangers that contain a very large SS pin, much like a toilet paper holder (sort of), that the keel swivels on. The bronze hangers are kept in place by SS hex head bolts that screw into a female threaded fixture that is not a nut, but something that Catalina devised themselves. You NEVER use 3M 5200 to bed these hangers because 5200 is an adhesive and there might be times where you need to remove these hangers like in this case: to paint your swing keel. If you like 3M products, use 3M 101 or Life Calks Life Calk, which is a polysulfide caulk for under water use. If you remove the keel, then you can coat the entire keel. If you leave it in the boat, then you can coat everything that is exposed and that isn't so bad either. If you remove the keel, the part that enters the pivot zone will rub off the paint and start rusting eventually anyway. You need to remove the rust on the keel and clean it up. Sandblasting is the best, but you might not have that convenience. Grinding is another solution, with either a grinder disk or a wire disc, etc. For sure get the loosest rust off and if you are unable to clean off all the rust, do as best you can, clean the surface with a solvent and let it dry completely. Like Interlux 202. Interlux also has an epoxy primer that is used on trailers. One is called Rust Lok Steel Primer and the other is called Trailer Coat. Basically the same product. It is very durable and adheres to rusty surfaces well (but make sure it is clean and dry and all flaking rust has been eliminated). Then you can apply several coats of Interlux Interprotect Epoxy PRimer like 2000/2001. There is a window, which varies with temperature, where you can apply bottom paint over the Interprotect without having to sand. Read the label. This should last you for several seasons unless you somehow compromise the surface and start the rusting process all over again.
First any metal primers need to say included in the formula Zinc Chromate for the best metal primers. After application of any metal primer, at that point fill in the voids first with two part epoxies and sand smooth before application of any barrier coats. I did this privately before and after being a sailboat dealer for 35 years having done this myself and that included Catalina sailboats which I was a dealer and also represented at Annapolis..
You just need to learn how to maintain steel.
First you must remove it. Then chip away all the rust until you are back to bare, shiny, white metal. Clean well wiping away dust that may be in tiny dents or crevasses using phosphoric acid (Ospho). Then wash well with a solvent like acetone and prime IMMEDIATELY. Then start building up coats of paint.
This would be much better done by a professional shop as they could get it cleaner and primed without the possibility that the rust would begin before it got primed, which begins to happen immediately. They could then spray paint and bake it like a car and if you don't hit it on anything, could be a one time job.
First you must remove it. Then chip away all the rust until you are back to bare, shiny, white metal. Clean well wiping away dust that may be in tiny dents or crevasses using phosphoric acid (Ospho). Then wash well with a solvent like acetone and prime IMMEDIATELY. Then start building up coats of paint.
This would be much better done by a professional shop as they could get it cleaner and primed without the possibility that the rust would begin before it got primed, which begins to happen immediately. They could then spray paint and bake it like a car and if you don't hit it on anything, could be a one time job.
