Today, after noticing rain water flowing in through the port and starboard chaiplates during the recent tropical storm that passed through Tucson, I gooped.
We shall see.
We shall see.
The Official "What Did You Do To Your Mac Today" Thread!
- Thread starter Sock Puppet
- Start date
I had a reef installed in my new main sail, so a topping lift became necessary to keep the boom up.
I like simple and adjustable from the cockpit.
So a small turning block on the mast at the boom
And a cam cleat on the boom. 3/16" double braid from the end of the boom to the block at the mast head, down to the lower block, out to the boom.
I like simple and adjustable from the cockpit.
So a small turning block on the mast at the boom
And a cam cleat on the boom. 3/16" double braid from the end of the boom to the block at the mast head, down to the lower block, out to the boom.
Im getting my 26S ready for the winter sailing season (Arizona) and removed the centerboard. I had last messed with the CB about 7 years ago and thought it was time for an inspection plus I added some weight so that it would drop easier as Im hoping to use the cockpit CB lift line more often to completely raise the CB during long down wind runs (down wind the CB is not needed, only adds drag, safely completely raising it is made possible by water ballast). I had also left the boat in a slip for four months last winter with no anti fouling paint on the CB so wanted to see how "dirty" it was. FYI, I didnt really add much weight (lead shot) but my CB now weighs 56 pounds. I think the stock ones are in the mid to high 40's pound range.
I used a four jack stand method to remove the CB. All the jack stands are individually rated for 3 tons. I had some elaborate fixture to hold the back end of the trailer up in the past, threw it out. The first picture shows the two jack stands in the rear. A jack is used to slightly lift the rear of the trailer (not shown in the picture but it is placed just to the right of the jack stand). Second picture shows the jack stand in the front while the front of the boat is raised. Third picture show the CB dropped out. This what the CB looked like after all these years of use. It was actually in good shape. Final picture shows the 56 pound CB next to the rudder craft rudder, both of these are fairly high aspect foils.
I used a four jack stand method to remove the CB. All the jack stands are individually rated for 3 tons. I had some elaborate fixture to hold the back end of the trailer up in the past, threw it out. The first picture shows the two jack stands in the rear. A jack is used to slightly lift the rear of the trailer (not shown in the picture but it is placed just to the right of the jack stand). Second picture shows the jack stand in the front while the front of the boat is raised. Third picture show the CB dropped out. This what the CB looked like after all these years of use. It was actually in good shape. Final picture shows the 56 pound CB next to the rudder craft rudder, both of these are fairly high aspect foils.
Just one question, the first picture is not quite explicative enough, I assume you use the jackstands to support the rear of the trailor. In fact from what I understand, you only really lift the bows and that should be enough to slip the CB out correct?
This method uses the back trailer bunk to support the aft end of the boat. What you need to do in order to get the CB out is separate the bottom of the boat from the trailer by some amount under where the CB pivot is located (I should have measured..). You can use the axle and wheels instead of the rear support like I used but then you will need to force the front of the trailer down by putting some weight on the trailer tongue (someone standing on it is enough). But if you support the trailer just under the bunk like I did, you dont need to force the front down. Also, raising it a little in the rear means you generally need a little less height in the front. I did all this alone so didnt want to mess with forcing the trailer tongue down plus lifting the back a little makes the job up front slightly easier.. but it can be done either way. If you use the tires and axle, make sure there is no way for the wheels to roll - you can imagine some bad stuff happening. I also left the boat on the stands as Im going back to the boat in a few weeks (Lake Havasu) and am going to do a little more bottom painting. And.. when I leave the boat, I always leave the rear on stands anyhow to take weight off the tires.
You are also using the trailer build in jack for this, you almost dont even need a separate jack. You have to be fearful careful with this task but its also really not that hard. Took me about 1/2 day to get the CB all the way out and part of that time was finding "stuff" to support the job and figuring out the method. The whole job would go pretty fast if I did it again now.
You probably also know that from about 1990 to 1992 or so, you access the CB pivot from under the boat by removing two plastic caps. My boat is a 1990 so this is how I do it. Sometime around 1992 (?), the 26S was slightly changed and you have to access the pivot from inside the cabin and Im not sure what is involved there.
You are also using the trailer build in jack for this, you almost dont even need a separate jack. You have to be fearful careful with this task but its also really not that hard. Took me about 1/2 day to get the CB all the way out and part of that time was finding "stuff" to support the job and figuring out the method. The whole job would go pretty fast if I did it again now.
You probably also know that from about 1990 to 1992 or so, you access the CB pivot from under the boat by removing two plastic caps. My boat is a 1990 so this is how I do it. Sometime around 1992 (?), the 26S was slightly changed and you have to access the pivot from inside the cabin and Im not sure what is involved there.
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FYI, I looked at Chris Holderness thread on his CB removal here http://forums.sailboatowners.com/in...rboard-removal-replacement-on-trailer.164220/
I didnt have the part about needing to hold down the tongue of the trailer correct. The key to this is that he put blocks between the bow of the boat and the trailer.. not the bow of the boat and ground. I think Chris's method is very clever as it holds the front of the trailer down plus you dont need to worry about the trailer moving a little since you are using the back wheels. If you are removing the CB, it has to come out moving forward so whatever is holding the bow up needs to allow the CB to fit between the supports (like I did) or have the block between the bow and trailer fairly far forward.
The picture is from yesterday in Colorado. The boat is a 26X with four guys older than I and I dont think anyone one on the lake was enjoying the day more than these guys.. I might have come close however..
I didnt have the part about needing to hold down the tongue of the trailer correct. The key to this is that he put blocks between the bow of the boat and the trailer.. not the bow of the boat and ground. I think Chris's method is very clever as it holds the front of the trailer down plus you dont need to worry about the trailer moving a little since you are using the back wheels. If you are removing the CB, it has to come out moving forward so whatever is holding the bow up needs to allow the CB to fit between the supports (like I did) or have the block between the bow and trailer fairly far forward.
The picture is from yesterday in Colorado. The boat is a 26X with four guys older than I and I dont think anyone one on the lake was enjoying the day more than these guys.. I might have come close however..
Thanks Walt, I definetly have to move south 
here I'm rushing to get Egret and my property ready for winter, hopefully I will have enough time to get that centerboard out and cleaned up and add some lead shot as you did, to make it sink better.
Happy winter sailing, perhaps I should fit runners on Egret and take hear ice sailing
here I'm rushing to get Egret and my property ready for winter, hopefully I will have enough time to get that centerboard out and cleaned up and add some lead shot as you did, to make it sink better.Happy winter sailing, perhaps I should fit runners on Egret and take hear ice sailing
I had been putting off cutting a hole in this piece of oak plywood for a couple months now. It actually went pretty smoothly after I figured out how to build a simple contraption to keep the router from dancing all over the place.
The next, and even bigger step will be cutting the original galley area of the boat so this will fit. Up to now, all mods were simple screw and bolt holes that could easily be filled and faired in the future or an access plate where she needed one. Cutting out the cast in sink is a major mod!
The next, and even bigger step will be cutting the original galley area of the boat so this will fit. Up to now, all mods were simple screw and bolt holes that could easily be filled and faired in the future or an access plate where she needed one. Cutting out the cast in sink is a major mod!
Winter must be near, by the look of folks starting the projects we've been putting off all summer. My own first project was to fabricate a bracket to let me secure the cook stove, and level it, wile on the hook. We prefer not to cook in the cabin, and setting the stove on the bench meant wading up towels, or whatever was handy, in an attempt to level the grill enough that the morning eggs didn't slide off the back of the grill and into the burner. As a former hot rod builder I tend to repurpose a lot of cast off car parts in my projects these days, so a tie rod end seemed like a reasonable beginnings. lots of cutting, welding, grinding, and head scratching later I came up with this little beauty. a lock lever was added to the tie rod end to lock it into the desired position. A spring pin is accessed under the laz, to remove the bracket, so a flush seating area returns when the stove is no longer required. The lower bracket easily pulls out of the upper bracket, which stays with the stove, for compact storage. quick and easy, and it even works!
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The more comfortable we get sailing the 25, the more we find ourselves heeled over 15-20* . The cooler wasn't liking it nearly as much as Jennifer and I do however, and has been getting pretty beat up as it crashes onto the floor . Today I solved that little inconvenience by cutting a well into the bench area where it resides, and fabricating stringers for the cooler to sit on.
. Today I solved that little inconvenience by cutting a well into the bench area where it resides, and fabricating stringers for the cooler to sit on.
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I stick mine under the cockpit starboard seat. Take the screws out of the hinges so the lid slides off. Great place for the weight and access from interior , limited, and through the seat hatch. I ran some plywood ac cross the stringers to make a flat surface. 90 qt. Marine Igloo works perfect. I can still get both anchors in there, my ladder, spare fuel and my 2hp Evenrude.
I remove the lid and slide it into place from the cabin. It drops down and does not move.
Ken B
CMDRE - North east Trailer Sailors
I remove the lid and slide it into place from the cabin. It drops down and does not move.
Ken B
CMDRE - North east Trailer Sailors
We used to keep our cooler under there also, but found it not very convenient when we just wanted to grab a cold drink etc., so we started placing it on the cabin bench, where the well for it is now. Under the cockpit seats we've added drawers to both sides. port side for pots and pans etc, and starboard side is for cloths (we overnight a lot).
Yup. we Love our 25 as well. can't imagine a better all around sailboat for our needs.
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hahaha! I sleep under there. I call it the coffin or dragster seat. The table is just too small for my wife and I. She is good for a night out but not much more. That is the only drawback to the boat. I'm a big hiker so the boat conditions are far better than I am used to. Bathroom, cooler, bed, grill who could complain right? Wrong. She says it's like going to the bathroom under her office desk. Hahahaha!
Yup... We also day sail a little Victoria eighteen. in the old Vic literature it says there are two "berths" under the cockpit seating. now-a-days, the owners refer to those as the "torpedo tubes".
That was the killer for me when I looked at a 25. I couldn't see bashing my legs all night or being unable to get up quickly. The big berth in the 26 fits me well though.
I did like the heavier centerboard though.
I modified our M25 V-berth with a hinged addition over the head area. the added section can be hinged up and latched if one really HAD to use the porta pot, but so far we've not needed to even do that. we just use the area to stow excess "stuff". the expanded v-berth area is nearly queen size (more at the foot and less at the head) and very comfortable. I do have some envy of the 26s rear berth, and I'd be happy to own one, but for the money difference in boats and some other feature preferences,..... we'll be keeping the M25
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What did I do to my Mac today?????
More like what I didn't do....I chickened out of cutting a big hole in the galley, for one........
I've had the new wooden piece finished for some time now, but I just need to get over the hurdle of such a major cut. Unlike filling holes, drilling new holes or fixing holes cut by the PO, this cut will be mine......
The area to be cut. The original sink is coming out.....
To be replace by the wooden counter and sink. Oak and SS.
Now, what actually did happen was a test run of the LED lighting installed in the cabin:
It throws off plenty of light.
More like what I didn't do....I chickened out of cutting a big hole in the galley, for one........
I've had the new wooden piece finished for some time now, but I just need to get over the hurdle of such a major cut. Unlike filling holes, drilling new holes or fixing holes cut by the PO, this cut will be mine......
The area to be cut. The original sink is coming out.....
To be replace by the wooden counter and sink. Oak and SS.
Now, what actually did happen was a test run of the LED lighting installed in the cabin:
It throws off plenty of light.