Keeping things in place

[flynhi4u]

Jim,
Sorry, I misread your post. I thought you were trying to get the cushions to stay in place. Woodster as the best idea. Cushions work great to keep the covers in place. Then the rug strip works great to keep the cushions in place.
So the boat was given to you? This brings up some interesting questions. Was it a friend who gave it to you? Are you still friends after you found out how much a "free" boat really cost?
Darn boats. Sailing would be the best hobby ever, if it didn't take a sailboat to do it LOL!

Sam

 

[Gene Neill]

Make a duct tape hinge along the side that faces the hull.

Too expensive! We aren't all made out of money, like YOU.

 

[Parsons]

Use this and you'll instantly understand all things sailing.

Kermit, do you have an unending supply of stills from that movie?

For Jim, you'll want a fastener that is relatively flat, even if you end up putting cushions on "one day". Have you considered window fasteners from your local hardware store to start? I'm thinking you'll want something that will hold the hatch in place. I'd avoid barrel bolt fasteners (sliding) as the things always rattle on boats although every manufacturer uses them on doors etc. Topcat might have the easiest solution, if you're handy with wood -- add a lip to one side like a teapot lid.

 

[Jim Hawkins]

[QUOTE="flynhi4u, post: 1316470, member: 122722"
So the boat was given to you? This brings up some interesting questions. Was it a friend who gave it to you? Are you still friends after you found out how much a "free" boat really cost?
Sam[/QUOTE]

I have no excuse, I've owned enough boats to know what I was getting into but I needed a project. (said the sailor sheepishly)
You have all given me some good ideas and I think I'll probably mix a few of them together and report back.
I'm thinking a nice piece of carpet with no skid backing and a tab or lip on the hull side of the cover might work nicely and dress up the cabin without the expense of having cushions made. Well that's my first idea at combining your suggestions but all your ideas are still running through my head. Thanks

 

[Jim Hawkins]

OK, I'm thinking along the lines of MitchM, finger hole with a latch or maybe just this

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

Kermit,
I did the math and your formula is surprisingly close. Just need to double that number after you add the additional 75% and you will be right in the ball park!

Sam

and throw away all receipts, except those needed for warranty

 

[Ron20324]

Before I did a DelMarVa trip, I wanted to be sure the boat was up for the ocean portion. On those cubby lids, on the back sides, I put two pieces of marine plywood, say 1/4 inch, about 4 inches square. They sit about 1/3 of that off the edge of the lids. When you put the lid in (kind of like the battery cover on a clicker), those tabs go in under the outboard surrounding fiberglass. You can use a number of things, but I had some short SS pieces ((( West has a number of cam cleat accessories you might be able to use) that are like 2-inch tangs. I think they were instended for some part of a small boat trapeeze, but I don't see them in the West book. On the cheap, you could use half of a hinge. Screw one end to the surround, and tighten the screw/bolt/poprivet enough to tension the tang, but loose enough so it pivots over the lid. For cubbys you seldom access, you and tighten the screws fully..

 

[edcarter517]

I use an aluminum tang attached to the underside of the hatch on the outboard side of the cover; then a cabinet latch (Perco #1021 - about $6) under the other side, accessed through a 1 1/4" hole. This is secure even in a knock down and has worked reliably on my boat for 40 years.

 

[Kermit]

Good job on your new avatar, Jim Jimmy Jim Jim Jim.

 

[Jim Hawkins]

I use an aluminum tang attached to the underside of the hatch on the outboard side of the cover; then a cabinet latch (Perco #1021 - about $6) under the other side, accessed through a 1 1/4" hole. This is secure even in a knock down and has worked reliably on my boat for 40 years.

Very nice, these are exactly the type things I was hoping would be suggested.
This latch looks good too, I like plastic.

 

[Jim Hawkins]

Good job on your new avatar, Jim Jimmy Jim Jim Jim.

Silver would have wanted it this way.

 

[edcarter517]

Your picture is not the right catch.

 

[Jim Hawkins]

Your picture is not the right catch.

Thanks Ed, I realize that. I saw the latch you mentioned and I like it but then searching through Perko latches I saw the one I posted and like it also. I should have been more clear.

 

[C22-Daydreamer]

This gave me such a good laugh this morning thanks guys I needed the inspiration!

 

[pateco]

We have cushions, so we haven't seen the issue with the settee hatch covers, and most of our lockers open for or aft, so unless I get into a really bad pounding sea, they shouldn't be an issue, but we do have two locker on the port side that open to starboard. One we only keep fowl weather gear hanging in so it has not been an issue, but the other has tools, reference books, and other important clutter on shelves. It has been flung open several times on port tacks. We accidentally solved this issue with placement of our new cooler. It blocks the cabinet doors, and needs to be moved to get into those cabinets.

 

[pateco]

How about something like this

Angle-Mount Stainless Steel Magnetic Catch $7.99

They also come in a flat mount


Flat-Mount Stainless Steel Magnetic Catch

 

[flynhi4u]

How about something like this
View attachment 126853

Angle-Mount Stainless Steel Magnetic Catch $7.99

They also come in a flat mount


Flat-Mount Stainless Steel Magnetic Catch

Those look like a slick idea. I guess ours are really recessed down in the hull liner as we have never had an issue with the covers coming out even when bouncing over large wakes while heeled over.

Sam

 

[Cayennita]

Many offshore yachts use recessed cams on the floorboards. Santa Cruz 70 comes to mind. For the settee, you can use the same concept. Don't need to shape them as an oval nor recess them. Cut 2" pieces with a wood screw in the center. No more sliding of boards.

 

[My Mistress]

Mistress has 2" velcro tabs to hold down the access covers. I also added velcro to the backs of the cushions to keep[ them in place.

 

[Quint]

Jim,

Lots of ideas. Here's one more: maybe you could drill four small (1/4") holes in the tops of the fiberglass seats, with each one about 2" outside of the edge of the access hole for the access covers but about 4" short of each end at each corner of the hole. Then you could use 1/4" bungee cord and pass one end down through one hole and tie a knot or two or three on that end, i.e., underneath the seat. Thread the other end of the bungee cord across the access hole and down through the top of the hole on the other side of the access hole (like a shoe lace). Pull it taut across the access hole and tie a couple of knots in this end of the bungee cord underneath the fiberglass seat and cut it so that you now have a bungee strap under which you can pass the wooden access hole cover. Repeat the process on the other end of the access hole so that you are left with 2 bungee straps across the width of the access hole, one on each end of the access hole. These will be easy to stretch/move up or aside so you can slide the wooden access covers underneath the straps; they'll keep the covers in place and will not create any hard bumps or fittings on top of the settees whenever you sit or lay on them (or if you ever get cushions). No fasteners needed, no complicated mounting process. And pretty cheap relatively speaking. And you can even slide other things under the straps (like a boat hook pole or winch handle if you need to keep them handy but secure while you sail.

Cheers,

Quint