macerator
- Thread starter paulj
- Start date
Paul, I did my homework a few years ago, Shurflo was the winner over Jabsco. Look-alikes, but some minor parts differences.
This would be an excellent time to upgrade to an electric diaphragm pump. Dometic/SeaLand is the best one. A bit more expensive than an impeller macerator pump, but can run dry without harm and lasts for decades. SeaLand T-Series discharge pump
Sal
I do not have too much room.
I'm at the Gorge in BC........may try Defender.
paulj
I do not have too much room.
I'm at the Gorge in BC........may try Defender.
paulj
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Looks to me like there's plenty of room for the SeaLand pump. It wouldn't be a "plug and play" replacement, though...you would have to replace the plumbing to it and from it to the thru-hull. A bit of a PITA, but WELL worth it IMO. Check Fisheries and Marine Sanitation (that's a company name http://www.marinesan.com/) in Seattle.
Defender just emailed me and response was ......Parts will be delivered 8/2/2016 by the end of the day.
Paid extra for two day shipping.
I will have plenty of time for taking sunset shots.
paulj
Paid extra for two day shipping.
I will have plenty of time for taking sunset shots.
paulj
When I get to hauling out the new to us boat I will replace the 1 inch thru hull on the macerator so I can add a diaphragm type pump with a much larger opening. Pumping out takes so long the macerator motor actually gets hot to the touch. I am really disappointed that Catalina didn't see fit to put a large enough thru hull to allow a quicker pump out. The pump doesn't take up any more room than a macerator. My electric toilet provides the macerator function so its a duplication as far as I am concerned.
My Telus cell phone did not work in Gorge Harbour....went to three locations nothing.
But the WIFI worked.
paulj
But the WIFI worked.
paulj
The thru-hull is 1" because 1" is the size of the discharge port on the macerator pump, which means the discharge hose has to be 1" and so does the thru-hull. That's not the reason for slow pump out....if it were, everyone who has a macerator pump would have the same complaint. Low voltage to the pump is the most common reason for sluggish discharge from macerating toilets and pumps.
A worn out impeller is another reason. Every time an impeller pump starts, it runs dry for the couple of seconds it takes to prime...that wears a minuscule amount off the edges of the impeller vanes each time. And the "looser" the impeller is against the inside of the housing, the less efficient it becomes. So first check the voltage to the macerator pump...if it's getting a full 12v, replace the impeller.
Forgot to include a reminder that any time you check voltage to any electric pump (ANY electric device), always put the volt meter on the pump while it's running.
Re the impeller: it's also possible that there's a cracked or broken vane. Waste is sticky...so unless a macerator pump is rinsed out after each use, the impeller sticks to the inside of its housing. Resulting in a "hard" start or even may require using a screwdriver to free the impeller. That puts stress on the impeller vanes that can crack one or more or even break one...which is why it's a good idea to replace the impeller every year as part of spring recommissioning...'cuz no one EVER finds out that the macerator pump is no longer pulling anything out of the tank when the tank is empty,
Peggie
I spend 30 to 90 Consecutive days a year on the boat and this brings out how long things last, just like engine hours, not years.
The new upgrade of the macerater will for sure include a shut off valve between the waste tank and the macerater.
I also ordered 2 new joker valves for the Elagance electric head which I installed in 2013.
It just so happened that the pump and the jokers valves went out at the same time.
May have to consider maintenance program for the head.
Stay in good health..........
paulj
I spend 30 to 90 Consecutive days a year on the boat and this brings out how long things last, just like engine hours, not years.
The new upgrade of the macerater will for sure include a shut off valve between the waste tank and the macerater.
I also ordered 2 new joker valves for the Elagance electric head which I installed in 2013.
It just so happened that the pump and the jokers valves went out at the same time.
May have to consider maintenance program for the head.
Stay in good health..........
paulj
I replaced the macerator with a new one when we took possession of the boat a month ago. Although it pumps fine and did a great job emptying the waste tank, it is still slower than my old whale gulper pump I had on my previous boat. I wish to replace the macerator with a diaphragm pump when I finally haul out and with that comes the requirement for a larger thru hull and at the same time I'll put a shut off valve between the tank and the pump to allow for pump maintenance without the need to pump out first. It's all part of making the boat what I want in terms of convenience and maintainability with me. I'll be pulling the sensor out of the tank as soon as the hot weather breaks here. (it's not something I will do in hot weather). I am assuming that the sensor is coated based on the history of the boat and I'm not sure that doing the ice cube trick will have much of an effect. I have done worse having been an aircraft technician for so many years. There is nothing fun about blue juice problems. LOL*
If you replace it with a system that uses senders attached to the outside of the tank, you won't have to remove it, just disconnect the wiring to it. The Profile "Solo" tank level indicator Profile Tank Monitors is top rated and relatively inexpensive. Unless yours is a Wema, you may even be able to use the existing wiring.
I still think you should check the voltage to the macerator...according to the specs, it should move 12 GPM. with 0 head...10 gpm with 3'. Jabsco Macerator Pump owner manual I don't THINK your old manual Whale even came close to that.
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With all the money I'm currently "investing" in the new boat I'm going to try fixing the problem rather than replace with a new external sensor. If I can't fix it then I will go ahead and replace with external which is what I did on the old boat.
I followed the link, but there weren't a lot of pictures. Is there a different link to the sensors on the outside of the tank? Or is there a float type of system (such as they have on riding mowers) that you could just cut a hole in the top of the tank and glue on?
There are all kinds of pictures on the site. Click on the link Profile Tank Monitors then go to Monitoring systems and scroll down till you come to the photos of the "solo" (single tank) display panels. Keep scrolling and you'll find photos of the various types of senders. You want the last one, the "sensor kit for composite tanks." Scroll down just a little more and you'll see a list of all the manuals...choose the one for the panel and one for the sensors. They offer detailed instructions and drawings. If you get stuck, call Dennis...he's the only person on the planet who'll answer the phone on a Sunday to help someone who's calling from their boat...he'll walk you through it. I strongly recommend that you call him to order it instead of ordering online anyway...you can ask him a bunch of questions then.