Newbe purchased #14612 this week.

$tingy Sailor · Feb 12, 2016

If yours is a swing keel, it should NOT be supporting the hull at all. The hull should be totally supported by the rollers and the bow V block. The keel should be resting by itself on a rubber block or wood pad on the frame. If it's a wing keel or fin keel, that's different and the keels are designed to support some weight.

mrudman850 · Feb 12, 2016

It's a swing keel and the keel is resting on a padded cross-member without bearing weight. Are rollers OK?

CloudDiver · Feb 12, 2016

Lane, looks like your U Bolts are rusting away badly. Now is the best time to replace them, especially if you have to cut them off (I had to!). Here is the BEST place I found online to buy galvanized U Bolts, by far cheaper than certain Marine Parts stores or other hardware suppliers;
http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Galvanized-Trailer-U-Bolts_c_188.html

BTW, nice trailer... Mine is very similar with that same I-beam construction. If you want a better way to fit the bunks to the hull, rather than in the water, try this; Use a cherry picker in from the side to lift up the bow eye, then two boat stands supporting the stern (place the pads close to the transom where the fiberglass is thicker, otherwise you'd need a cradle). With the hull supported this way and the wing keel resting on the pad you can adjust the bunks however you need to, also move the hull forward on the trailer first if needed, get that weight as far forward as possible!
This method is typically what you'd need to do to get the hull off the trailer and on to stands and then back on again for bottom paint of whatever. Since I know your hull is in the water you still need to get it out, so you'll have to do your best guess with measurements off another C22 wing-keel trailer.... set it up as close as you can first and pull her out. Do your adjustments on the hard in the parking lot, not in cold water.... that would just suck.

$tingy Sailor · Feb 12, 2016

They're not common for sailboats but if you don't have any oil canning happening, you're probably okay. Just be careful about the boat rolling back and forth while trailering (braking and hills) since there isn't much friction to hold it steady and you'll be relying a lot more on the bow eye connection. I use a 2" ratchet strap over the cockpit against the coaming winches and connected to the trailer frame to pull tension forward and help prevent the hull from rotating in the bunks because my bottom paint is so slippery.

mrudman850 · Feb 12, 2016

Thanks. I'll be moving the boat to stands to refinish the keel, bottom paint, etc. in April. After that we'll launch to our mooring and remove in October. Would you recommend keeping it on the trailer or stands when on the hard in the future? I love your website and particularly your projects tab.....plan on doing a ton of work before launching this year and you're my number one resource!
Mike
Plymouth MA

$tingy Sailor · Feb 12, 2016

Lane,

Here are some measurements from my adjustable Calkins trailer. I dropped plumb bobs from the outside tips of my bunks that are 9' long. The width at the forward ends is 4'-11". The width at the aft ends is 6'-1".

Mike,
Most owners leave their boats on their trailers. It's a good idea to block up the frame in front and behind the wheels to take weight off the tires over the winter and prevent flat spots. Also makes it more stable to work on the boat and it's handy to service your hubs and brakes while you're at it. If the weight isn't forward enough, the trailer can tip backward with one or two guys standing near the transom. Some guys tip them so the cockpit doesn't fill with rain water or snow melt, but in my opinion, that's just being lazy.

$tingy Sailor · Feb 18, 2016

Haven't heard of that before but it makes sense. As you furl the sail, the angle of the lead will decrease and the top will twist and spill air. At a certain point, you won't be able to get the lead to bisect the luff high enough to provide balanced tension. It would be the same problem if you hanked on a small trysail or storm jib and then tried to sheet it all the way back to the lead car, even with it fully forward. Kudos to them for pointing it out instead of making you discover it on your own and then wonder why your new sail won't trim properly when partially furled.

hawk232 · Feb 18, 2016

@Gene Neill often complains that his tracks are to far aft...

I have inboard tracks that extend about a foot or so forward so I don't really have an issue.

CaptDon01 · Feb 18, 2016

bushav said:
You guys let me know if you have heard of this issue.

Hyde is two months into making my Genoa. Judy and Dave called to say that a 120 Genoa will not sheet correctly wth my factory tracks. With my CDI furler the sail is lifted off the deck enough to prevent the angle on the sheet from being correct with anything less than a 133.

Even with a 133 I need a frictionless block on each sheet to adjust the angle downward when furled 20 percent.

Have you guys been told that the factory tracks are too far aft?

Something to think about, the factory has made a bunch of C-22, and the boat comes from the factory with a 110 jib, (I would think a 120 shouldn't be that much different than a C-22 110). The genoa's are something that came about with the racers. Maybe their design has the clew too high because the leech is too short? Just curious what their measurements of the leech, luff, and foot are compared to a standard 110 that has been in production for over 40 years with thousands and thousands made. I would get some measurements from other new design boats before I would get too excited and start making modifications, and try using the sail to see for yourself. Maybe it's their design that won't work with the standard factory setup of the tracks? I don't know....

It's already been two months and you don't have a sail? I've bought a lot of sails over the years and I've never had to wait that long for a sail, and just now they're telling you it won't work? Somethings funny here, guess it's your fault for buying the wrong boat for their sail design....

Don

Gene Neill · Feb 18, 2016

bushav said:
Have you guys been told that the factory tracks are too far aft?

Yes, I have been told this ... by me. I've never heard any corroborating testimony before, though, so this is gratifying to hear.

Despite having compared measurements with other C22 owners, I absolutely swear the genny tracks on my new design C22 are too far aft. Somehow. Don't ask me how. It doesn't make any sense. But I'm pretty convinced.

With most headsails, under most conditions, I have to simulate longer genny tracks by stepping on the sheet about 12-18" forward of the track, in order to get the upper telltales to fly right. Even my 180 genny never utilizes the aft 50% of the track; it trims quite well with the cars about midway. And the problem is exacerbated with each successively smaller headsail, down to a ~30% storm jib.

I've been scratching my head over this for a long time.

pateco · Feb 19, 2016

I don't know how your tracks are mounted, but could you move them forward to where you think they should be? Or maybe add a pair of parallel tracks farther forward for use with this sail.

CloudDiver · Feb 19, 2016

Good thing I haven't yet installed my inboard tracks; now I know what to check for and I still have the freedom to move them as far forward as I need to.

mrudman850 · Feb 25, 2016

Used JD Select on my Buccaneer 180 and it worked well. Plan on using it on my (new to me) Catalina this spring.