Refitting my mast - Macgregor 25

[Jim Hawkins]

Thanks again to everyone on the forum that helped me lower my mast. I want to repair/replace/upgrade from the top down but rather than ask 20 questions I'll work on them 1 or 2 at a time.
First question, you can see in the picture the old VHF antenna. The wire going up the mast to it needs replacing and I might as well change the antenna also unless, Do I really need this and the associated expense and upkeep? I will be using this boat for coastal cruising, usually always in sight of land. I wouldn't do away with the VHF radio but would an antenna mounted lower on the boat make more sense?
Second question, also in the pic see a rusty bracket that I suppose held a windex. Really, do I need a windex? I mean as I feel the sails pull and feel the rudder do I really need to look up there for direction? I think possibly with my lack of experience it won't help much and once I have experience I won't need it. Thoughts?

 

[justsomeguy]

...would an antenna mounted lower on the boat make more sense?

As it's a line-of-sight thing, I'd keep it as high as possible.

Really, do I need a windex?

No, you don't really need a windex. They're a luxury most of the time.

 

[centerline]

It depends on your style... a mac25 is not designed as a coastal cruiser, but as a bay/lake sailer.... but if you.are indeed taking it out into open water, the VHF may be more importent than ever... keep the antennae high.

As a bay sailor, a handheld vhf would be acceptable....

Some, like myself, like the windex, but others use other means of seeing wind direction.... once you learn how to read and compensate for true wind direction vs apparent wind direction, either will work for you.
Telltales on the sails are different, and for actual.sailing ability are arguably more necessary than knowing exactly where the wind is coming from.

 

[Jim Hawkins]

Alright then, thanks for the input. So, unless someone else chimes in and changes my mind I will forget the windex and put that money into a new VHF cable.

Next question, notice there is no all around anchor light on top of this mast, only a 220 degree masthead light farther down. I can't find any exceptions to the rule and plan to do some anchoring so I guess I'll need to add an anchor light where the windex would have gone.

 

[justsomeguy]

My boat's previous owner had this arrangement, and it slips nicely into the slot created by the bolts holding the brackets at the top of the mast.
This photo was taken after a lightning strike which blew up my antenna, the windex mounted on the antenna, and the LED in my anchor light.

 

[Jim Hawkins]

Now after thinking about it, there is only one electrical connection through the deck (besides the VHF wire) so it appears this boat never had a 360 degree anchor light. So what do folks do? Just use the masthead light at anchor? Do I really need to add a 360 degree light up top? I'll have to add a second connection through the deck. Can't say I like that idea.

 

[CloudDiver]

Your masthead light, the 220 degree fwd facing light, (as I'm sure you know) is for 'steaming' at night, or movement under engine power. A 360 degree light at the top is only required when you are moored at night OUTSIDE of a designated anchorage. So if you don't plan on anchoring overnight anywhere other than a designated anchorage you are safe to leave that light out of your plan. If you need one in a pinch there are ways to build a simple device out of PVC with a 360 degree LED light with batteries that you could hoist up a halyard at night.

 

[Jim Hawkins]

that explains it. I missed that about the designated anchorage

 

[Jim Hawkins]

Well, down here in the keys folks have had a lot of issues with FWC writing citations for lighting that is not By The Book. Also, there's a lot of misunderstanding about "designated anchorages" and "special anchorages" and where these rules apply and where they don't. The FWC has even issued citations for a dingy tied to a sailboat where the dingy did not have it's own anchor light.
So, to be safe, I'll add the blasted 360 light atop the mast but I won't add another hole in the deck for the electrical fitting. Rather, I'll just unplug the steamer light and plug in the 360 light as needed.

 

[Jim Hawkins]

Now, on the subject of my VHF I ordered my wire and connector. I hope I got it right. The connector is a Shakespeare PL-259-58-G (gold plated brass!) and the wire is Ancor RG_8X. I hope this combination will keep me from ever having to fiddle with it again.

 

[justsomeguy]

Now, on the subject of my VHF I ordered my wire and connector. I hope I got it right. The connector is a Shakespeare PL-259-58-G (gold plated brass!) and the wire is Ancor RG_8X. I hope this combination will keep me from ever having to fiddle with it again.

Somehow, I doubt you'll never fiddle with it again. I'm about to replace all that stuff, again.

 

[Jim Hawkins]

Well, do you think I at least ordered the right stuff?

 

[justsomeguy]

Well, do you think I at least ordered the right stuff?

Yes. Do a good job soldering, and it should last awhile.

Oh, and your anchor light needn't be at the top of your mast. Some folks just haul up a battery powered light on a halyard, or hang it off the backstay.

 

[Jim Hawkins]

I understand JSG however my info says that wont fly with FWC. I could also burn the steamer light in combination with a stern light which would fulfill being able to see me from 360 degrees but, but, but, it's not By The Book and they can and have cited just this sort of thing. But thanks for the suggestion.

 

[justsomeguy]

Come to Mexico.

 

[Jim Hawkins]

Are you saying, if I think it's bad here...
or
It's better there?

 

[justsomeguy]

Better in Mexico, "the land of the free".

 

[THECUSCUS]

Jim, the subject of nav lights has been a frequent topic of discussion on this site and the Macgregor site. The simpliest, and totally legally compliant set up for a MAC (trailer launched) is to have a 360 white light atop the mast, 135 degree white stern light and your red and green bow lights. Run each light to its own switch (both bow lights to same one, obviously). This way you can make any combo you will need with the minimum wiring, lights and switches. One 2 wire deck fitting, one 2 wire running up mast, etc. Also, while you at it, put your antenna on your stern and don't have the bother of a cable in the mast and another thru deck fitting. Get a 10' pre-made coax cable from radio shack and you won't have any corrosion or reception issues. You can get an antenna mount that uses different length antennas to give you different ranges if needed. The coast guard towers are pretty tall and unless you plan to be way off the coast, you will be able to see their signal and them yours.

 

[Jim Hawkins]

Thanks Thecuscus,
I already ordered my coax and so will run up the mast with the UHF however a 10' run of coax and spare antenna would be great to have for backup.
Since the masthead/steamer light is already on the mast and wired then once I mount the 360 up top I will have 2 wires coming down but only 1 plugged in. The steamer light is 2' below the top of the mast so I needed a new wire to reach all the way up anyway and no reason to remove whats there already.

 

[THECUSCUS]

There are many ways to skin a cat, to quote a poster on this site, "your boat, your choice".
Just don't have both those mast lights on at the same time.