I Need Some Running Gear Advice, Catalina 27

[philwsailz]

My Catalina 27 project is in an awkward place. Let's' just say it was a REAL good thing I found this latest issue on the hard!

I decided to pull my prop shaft the other day after noticing that the shaft hose was installed on the packing gland and stuffing box with two, (only two) very hinky clamps. So I dropped the rudder, disconnected the shaft coupling from the reversing gear, (Atomic 4 motor) and pulled the shaft.

You can see the results on the last page of my "living thread" that is documenting the ongoing refit and refurb of my '75 C27. The thread can be found here: http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/c-27-refit-refurb.123450/ Just go to the last page, currently page 19 for pictures of the disassembled assembly.

The issues are:
* The shaft coupler came off pretty easily. I was able to pop it loose by hopping out and giving the prop and shaft a couple of good tugs. The set screw bites on the shaft tell me it has been on and off several times. There are set screw bites in a few places up and down the shaft. There is also what best can be described as a slot that was created by the set screw, as if the shaft had been moving in and out roughly 1/2" with the application of forward and reverse thrust... !!!

* The bronze prop shaft itself has some scars, particularly where the packing material has worn on it. The diameter of the shaft is down .015" and has some grooves right there. It also has some discolored areas where the shaft looks more copper than bronze.

* I already have a pound of Ultra-X to repack the stuffing box but I am concerned about the shaft wear. A dripless seal system would remove the wear concern and provide a fresh new seal surface, but my fear is the prop shaft is too far gone to try to re-use.

At this point I am pretty taken aback. I am handy, I can do the work, but I do not want to take any shortcuts, intentional or otherwise, and I do not want to make any mistakes. I do not want to lose the boat while I am away from it and I don't want it sinking under me; particularly if my family is with me!

The ideal thing will probably be new hose, new clamps, new dripless seal, new shaft and fitted coupler. I just want a gut check to see if I NEED to to this total replacement or if it is more of a WANT on my part...

All comments will be appreciated!

 

[Charles Erwin]

Based on what you say I predict: A new coupler will be needed. The new coupler must be fit and squared to the shaft. Find a split coupler. The shaft wearing surface (at the stuffing box) must be polished and cannot have any ridging. The wear you describe is too much but more important the area is not worn uniformly. It is possible to resurface a stainless shaft. I have never resurfaced bronze shaft but I imagine it is possible. The shaft needs to be straightened if necessary All things considered it is likely less work to make up an new shaft in AquaMet or equivilant than to resurface, turn, and finish thus to save the present shaft.

No one can possibly give you an accurate answer here. We cannot examine the parts. To get a real answer take the shaft and coupler to your machinist - choose one who does marine work. They will tell you what is needed and also provide accurate costs.

Charles

Edit: I just looked at your pics. Your packing box hose is for exhaust only - put it in the dumper this instant. Use only hose made for shaft packing which is completely different stuff.

 

[philwsailz]

Based on what you say I predict: A new coupler will be needed. The new coupler must be fit and squared to the shaft. Find a split coupler. The shaft wearing surface (at the stuffing box) must be polished and cannot have any ridging. The wear you describe is too much but more important the area is not worn uniformly. It is possible to resurface a stainless shaft. I have never resurfaced bronze shaft but I imagine it is possible. The shaft needs to be straightened if necessary All things considered it is likely less work to make up an new shaft in AquaMet or equivilant than to resurface, turn, and finish thus to save the present shaft.

No one can possibly give you an accurate answer here. We cannot examine the parts. To get a real answer take the shaft and coupler to your machinist - choose one who does marine work. They will tell you what is needed and also provide accurate costs.

Charles

Oh no... Marine machinist? In Stillwater Oklahoma??? I hate to think how far I would have to go to find that guy!
I have my suspicions which direction I will need to go but will reserve comment til I see a little more feedback.

Thanks for the reply Charles!

 

[capta]

I'd be inclined to get a new stainless shaft. Get it dimpled where the set screws are supposed to go. Have a new flange machined to fit the shaft properly. Assemble the stuffing box with the proper hose and clamps and worry no more.

 

[Charles Erwin]

Anyhow ask around. The machine work is simple. Shaft straightening is pretty simple. Shaft making is very standard stuff too - but you will need to give them your propeller and have them lapp fit and key the prop to the shaft.

Successful machining is more about the person than any label.

Charles

 

[woodster]

You can get a new stuffing box complete for less than 100bucks including the clamps and hose of correct kind

 

[philwsailz]

Woodster, would you in similar situation stick with a traditional stuffing box or opt for a dripless solution? What reasoning would you base your decision on?

With a new shaft, does one want a new stuffing box, or does one keep the original? I do not believe there is anything wrong with my stuffing box.

 

[woodster]

Also contact general propeller in Bradenton fl for a new shaft and split coupler .....the pink part scares the hell out of me(read shaft can twist into)....in the long run you will be better off

 

[woodster]

The reason I would get a new stuffing box is the fact that you get the correct hose and the t bolt clamps with in a package price as opposed to ordering the parts alcart

 

[woodster]

Deep blue sea marine or deep blue something. offers a very good price on the combination

 

[philwsailz]

The reason I would get a new stuffing box is the fact that you get the correct hose and the t bolt clamps with in a package price as opposed to ordering the parts alcart

Gotcha! What about Dripless? Would you go that way or stick with a traditional box? Again, what is the rationale behind any decision about type?

 

[woodster]

Finatually it cost a bundle from the get go and when it comes to maintain time another small bubble and you already have a life time supply of flax and repacking when needed also gives you time down below to scope other things out thus creating preventive maintance which I suspect you are a stickler about any way. Look how you found this problem

 

[woodster]

Don't get me wrong the drip less ones serve their owners well until it has to be serviced then I think you have to remove the coupler off the shaft to repair just not for me

 

[philwsailz]

Awesome! All good points. Only issue with the packing is that looking at the complete assemblies at Deep Blue, the box uses 1/4" packing.... I own a lifetime supply of 3/16"... Too funny.

 

[Siamese]

Based on your description, I'd replace the whole works as you've suggested. Don't know if you mentioned it, but I'd do the cutlass bearing while I was at it.

If you haven't already, check out what MaineSail has to say about couplings etc. on his website, marinehowto com. When it comes to shaft couplings, etc., he doesn't mess around.

I had a dripless system on my Catalina 309, and I currently have a stuffing box on my Catalina 28 MKII. I restuffed the stuffing box last Spring (using MaineSail's instructions, of course), and it was a simple job. I'm aware of the advantages of the dripless system, but I'm completely satisfied with my old-school stuffing box.

So, if it were me, I'd do all the replacements of the drive train components, but I wouldn't put much emphasis on the dripless upgrade.

 

[woodster]

To funny man ....heaven forbid you could always double wrap it like you found it ...NOT

 

[capta]

I had been considering a dripless gland for our boat until a thread on here mentioned that if damaged, one needed to haul out to fix it. That turned me right off to them.

 

[philwsailz]

what diff is 1/6" gonna make anyway??? Well, I guess it is 25% huh?

 

[woodster]

Second the cutlass bearing unless it's not very old say as in not been used

 

[philwsailz]

Based on your description, I'd replace the whole works as you've suggested. Don't know if you mentioned it, but I'd do the cutlass bearing while I was at it.

If you haven't already, check out what MaineSail has to say about couplings etc. on his website, marinehowto com. When it comes to shaft couplings, etc., he doesn't mess around.

I had a dripless system on my Catalina 309, and I currently have a stuffing box on my Catalina 28 MKII. I restuffed the stuffing box last Spring (using MaineSail's instructions, of course), and it was a simple job. I'm aware of the advantages of the dripless system, but I'm completely satisfied with my old-school stuffing box.

So, if it were me, I'd do all the replacements of the drive train components, but I wouldn't put much emphasis on the dripless upgrade.

Hah! Beat ya to it on the cutlass bearing... That is already done!