Had my annual engine service done yesterday and unfortunately- found I have water and algae in my fuel. My H42 fuel tank is under the master bed- the factory installed EZEL aluminum tank- but there is no inspection hole! Can anyone see an alternative to now cutting an inspection hole into the tank and doing a full tank clean?
Water and algae in my fuel!
- Thread starter eianm
- Start date
Depending on the baffles, a power washer with various elbows. Common practice in refineries. Use a good degreaser, and after the first flush, even a shop vac will be safe pulling the water out (use a pump for the oil and the first wash).
Might take a little while and may generate a fair amount of water, but not bad.
And then start using Biobor JF.
Might take a little while and may generate a fair amount of water, but not bad.
And then start using Biobor JF.
in researching further on this today, i am told another option to help the situation is to add a few liters of metholated spirits- the metho mixes with the water and then - over time - evaporates- anyone heard of this before?
You might try disconnecting the suction hose from the tank side and strip fuel out until it is clean. Usually fuel will float on top of water a solid contaminates. The tank suction connection should take fuel from near the bottom of the tank. You could get a small hand pump to fit on the tank suction connection and strip into a bucket. You probably do not have as much algae and water indoor tank then you think. You will also need to change all your fuel filters. I would then add fuel treatment like seafoam in the proportion recommended to remove any remaining water. I would also recommend keeping your tank topped off. Where have you been getting your fuel oil? You may want to consider changing your fuel oil source.
I have experimented with Menthol in gasoline, and it it turns water into an opaque sludge. Isopropal works great.
Before I put anything in the tank, I would put some diesel in a jar, add some water, shake it up and add your favorite additive and see what happens to the sample.
Why are you trying everything but the best solution? Put an inspection hole in the tank and clean it out every year. The last thing you need is your engine stopping when you need it the most. Your life may depend on it!
Any alternative is a short cut, which in most cases is ineffective. The problem is not just the fuel but also on the tank bottom and walls. No amount of wishing is going to effectively clean those surfaces. Without thoroughly cleaning the tank (not just the content), the problem will quickly recur. Even if it doesn't manifest itself quickly, it will eventually and no amount of additive will prevent recurrence. Why take the chance?
E,
I did what Sailgunner suggested & this serves me well. I am also NOT a lover of additives but, maybe you think about this:
#1 The water in your fuel got there by temp./seasonal changes causing condensation depending on your area & based on how much fuel is in your tank as opposed to air volume.
#2, possible water leaking from your deck fill port.
#3 which is mostly overlooked, is the quality of the fuel that you use. I do NOT fill up at fuel docks. I have a 22 gal. tank & jerry can my fuel to the boat. Look for major gas stations that have a high quality of diesel fuel. Take your jerry can & fill one gallon at each station until you find that sweet clear diesel.
#4 if your tank has never been inspected and/or cleaned, I would bet you have a 1/8" thk. or more of a grey pudding-like sludge on your tank bottom. Remove your dip tube & run a stick to the bottom & move it about. You will see the sludge on it when removed. This is the time for an inspection port and/or polishing.
I also removed the screen on my dip tube. My filters can better handle particulates than a clogged pick-up screen. If you've ever stalled when you needed the throttle, sludge buildup is the likely culprit.
Only use well-filtered fuel that looks like water & nothing with a brownish color. I have not had water problems the past ten years. I would also suggest to have a minimum 5" x 5" square inspection plate installed for adequate room to inspect & room for cleaning tools.
Baffled tanks my require two inspection ports. Personally, I am not real confident of fuel polishing for baffled tanks. That's just my take on it.
CR
I did what Sailgunner suggested & this serves me well. I am also NOT a lover of additives but, maybe you think about this:
#1 The water in your fuel got there by temp./seasonal changes causing condensation depending on your area & based on how much fuel is in your tank as opposed to air volume.
#2, possible water leaking from your deck fill port.
#3 which is mostly overlooked, is the quality of the fuel that you use. I do NOT fill up at fuel docks. I have a 22 gal. tank & jerry can my fuel to the boat. Look for major gas stations that have a high quality of diesel fuel. Take your jerry can & fill one gallon at each station until you find that sweet clear diesel.
#4 if your tank has never been inspected and/or cleaned, I would bet you have a 1/8" thk. or more of a grey pudding-like sludge on your tank bottom. Remove your dip tube & run a stick to the bottom & move it about. You will see the sludge on it when removed. This is the time for an inspection port and/or polishing.
I also removed the screen on my dip tube. My filters can better handle particulates than a clogged pick-up screen. If you've ever stalled when you needed the throttle, sludge buildup is the likely culprit.
Only use well-filtered fuel that looks like water & nothing with a brownish color. I have not had water problems the past ten years. I would also suggest to have a minimum 5" x 5" square inspection plate installed for adequate room to inspect & room for cleaning tools.
Baffled tanks my require two inspection ports. Personally, I am not real confident of fuel polishing for baffled tanks. That's just my take on it.
CR
thanks guys, all good solid advice- i think i will do it properly and put in 2 inspection ports (( one either side of central baffle!)
The fuel pickup never goes to the bottom of the tank. Once when I ran out of fuel due to a bad fuel gauge, I pulled the fuel pickup out and added a short piece of hose to reach the bottom. Turned my filters black, but got me into port. The same trick could be used to get the water put of the bottom of the tank. Extend the pickup, connect a pump (not the engine) and suck it out. Not s good as cleaning, but will hold you over until you can get a cleanout installed.
Hi Eianm, I can send you a picture of the inspection hole we have and where it is. I can get to both sides of our baffle thru the one hole!
Here is the only access to the deepest portion of our fuel tank. It allows me to insert a suction tube attached to a Pela oil suction pump to sample the bottom of the tank. The black sealant under the 3/8" SS disk is Permatex #2 which is the only sealant I know of which sticks permanently to polyethylene and is near impossible to remove. The brass pipe plug is 3/8" NPT and the hole in the tank top is 1/2".
Call me chicken, but I would be very hesitant to install a large diameter inspection port in the top of the tank. I don't think you want to put your head inside the tank to see what's going on, just pull a sample out to inspect for contamination.
Call me chicken, but I would be very hesitant to install a large diameter inspection port in the top of the tank. I don't think you want to put your head inside the tank to see what's going on, just pull a sample out to inspect for contamination.
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I have thought about replacing it with a metal one. But it does not leak and the last 2 surveyors have not complained about it. And it has been there for 12 years!
Hi just want to confirm can one Instal this in front wall of tank as there's no room on top of my tank. Will it leak if filled up?
Thanks.
Guan
Thanks.
Guan
Yes you can install an inspection plate on the tank side. For example here is a shop-made one. The gaskets are Buna N. If you cannot fabricate you can obtain one from Seabuilt.
http://www.seabuilt.com/plates.php
Charles
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