The Official "What Did You Do To Your Mac Today" Thread!

[Doc_holiday]

Oh, I have bought my fair share of tools over the years but sooner or later I run out of space and have to thin the herd. And as mentioned I don't want my ego or learning time be why my boat is hanging off the trailer.

My axle has not been an issue other than its steel and rusty. Someone posted a picture where theirs broke so I am concerned it's time to replace it. Trailer breakdowns can be come expensive quick.

It's interesting how that 1" can make the difference in your position on the ramp. I didn't think of that. But I agree, there is no easier boat to launch and retrieve at 26'. Really as I think about it, other than flex in the hull, that small clearance between my hull and fender is fixed. Maybe I should leave well enough alone there.

 

[finding41]

I got the carpet on the wood bunks and installed the new bunk height adjuster things... (Pieces of angle iron I had made instead of the flat stock that was there.)
It rained all day and I didn't want to lay on the wet ground. So tomorrow I will figure out the correct angle for the bunks based on ware they will sit under the boat on this new trailer.
I also picked up a 1970's 6hp Johnson long shaft for the Siren. Same vintage as the boat.

Doc; I'll post a picture of the clearance of my fender to the hull on the Mac I have in the driveway. It's not allot. (I think this trailer still has the 2x4's on it. One of them has 4x4's. I'm just not sure which one.)
Note: The bunks are on the wrong sides in the photos.

 

[EnginesForward]

I have been working on my boat and trailer since I bought it in June 2014. My trailer is 2 axle with a 3" drop. I have bent and installed the lower brackets that will hold the upright guides which I intend to eqip with clearance lights. I used 1/4"X 2" flat bar and welded it from middle of the 2 axles up and across the top of the fender. If I have to adjust the tongue weight I just loosten the "U" bolts that secures the axle carriage to the frame and everythig moves as a unit. As for the boat I am replacing all the wood deck hardware backing with 1/8 " stainless steel plated which have been drilled and taped for 1/4-20 screws which will let me tighten the screws from above the deck, they will be sealed with "Bed-it" tape on top and from below. The next thing for the trailer will be the removable Tail and stop Light bar that will be 7'-2" and will also double as a ladder I may also incorporate it into a mast raising mast. "Ahoogha X-3"

 

[justsomeguy]

snip- As for the boat I am replacing all the wood deck hardware backing with 1/8 " stainless steel plated which have been drilled and taped for 1/4-20 screws which will let me tighten the screws from above the deck, they will be sealed with "Bed-it" tape on top and from below. -snip-

http://forums.macgregor.sailboatowners.com/showpost.php?p=1155329&postcount=7

 

[prob]

Since I brought home from the marina a couple weeks ago my new-to-me 26D, I've been going over (dismantling and cleaning out) everything from storage areas to wiring (bird's nest) to mast. I'll completely re-vamp the wiring, will re-bed fittings and chainplates, add proper backing plates, add a surface block for the daggerboard (to adjust from cockpit). I like some of the ideas I've seen about the swim ladder, as in cutting through stern rail for a walk through, and definitely more substantial backing there.

Now for the mast... I dropped it off boat to inspect the stays and fittings, masthead light and wiring, etc., and discovered that some owner in the past has filled top and bottom ends with expanding foam (!) so I've been drilling that out from both ends; I'm about 3 feet deep in each end at this point, and will need more extensions for further. I'm using an Irwin 1 1/4" boring type bit and a shop-vac to suck out the loosened pieces as I go. It's a process.....

Also today ordered a new forestay from Rigging Only. Boat has a CDI FF2 furler, and I'll be adding a Johnson lever, so the measurement will accommodate that. I will have to remove a bit from the furler's foil, but not much.

 

[EnginesForward]

Prob,
You may see if you can get a drill bit brazed on to a peice of 1/4 in mild steel rod. Harebor Frieght sell a kit for routing electrical wire it is about 4 or 5 4 foot pieces of fiberglas rods that thread together and have one end that you can attach the wire you want to pull through.

 

[finding41]

Bolted the bunks on the trailer at the correct angle and straitened the trailer jack out. Also put beefier U bolts on the front bunk adjusters.
Ready to hit the road in the AM to get the new boat.
Oh I picked up the cutest Force 10 BBQ ever! It's a charcoal grill!
Isn't it cute....

 

[prob]

Prob,
You may see if you can get a drill bit brazed on to a peice of 1/4 in mild steel rod. Harebor Frieght sell a kit for routing electrical wire it is about 4 or 5 4 foot pieces of fiberglas rods that thread together and have one end that you can attach the wire you want to pull through.

Thx; given what I see in hardware stores, I may just do that (make up my own). Once through, I do have a fish tape for the new wiring.

 

[walt]

Oh I picked up the cutest Force 10 BBQ ever! It's a charcoal grill!
Isn't it cute....

Dad is going to be in for a little stress when that cute BBQ gets to be about 16..

Foam in the mast.. Ive never felt like I needed that with the 26S..

 

[Doc_holiday]

I stuffed pool noodles in mine but could only get like 3 in. They stopped going in when they got to the bolt for the spreaders. For what it's worth, that didn't help with the slapping. I like sumners plan of having a wad of foam on the writing every couple of feet and wish I had taken his idea.

With the boat home now and the mast down, I my redo it

 

[finding41]

Wow what a day I had.
Short story: I took my trailer to St Catherine's to bring home a Mac 26D.
I came home 8 hours later without a boat.... Or trailer.
Long story on blog below.
So close...
Tonight was the yacht club banquet. Heidi and I had fun.
Note last picture. Open B class... 2nd in a Siren 17! (I was beating the 2 Hunter 26's half the time too! They had there own class because there was 2 of them... Come on Siren owners! Time to get out and race.)

 

[Sock Puppet]

Took mine to covered storage for the winter. I have a few things to do, but work will keep me from getting to them until the spring. Really looking forward to next season!

 

[Justin_NSA]

Dropped the mast today. So begins my mast projects; new LED anchor light on top, new steaming light LED bulb, new wiring and 4 pin deck plug for both. A block at the top for a topping lift line led back to the cockpit. Mine is at the aft end of the boom now.

 

[Cruiser1]

I stuffed pool noodles in mine but could only get like 3 in. They stopped going in when they got to the bolt for the spreaders. For what it's worth, that didn't help with the slapping. I like sumners plan of having a wad of foam on the writing every couple of feet and wish I had taken his idea.

With the boat home now and the mast down, I my redo it

Another alternative. I attached cable ties in group of 3 ever metre or so along the cable as I pulled it up inside the mast.

 

[Justin_NSA]

Where did you all purchase your wiring? 4 pin deck connector? I'm thinking LED lights could get by with 20ga wire.

 

[Sumner]

Where did you all purchase your wiring? 4 pin deck connector? I'm thinking LED lights could get by with 20ga wire.

I think I got the deck plug from WM (at the time they were price matching)....

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--electrical-connectors--P009_275_007_007

Here is another like it for less...

http://www.boaterbits.ca/electrical...oof-electrical-deck-connector-plug-4-pin.html

...and I think I've seen them on E-bay and possibly you can find them on here??

For all my wiring I use these guys....

http://www.genuinedealz.com/marine-wire

... good pricing and service. 20 might do it but I think I'd go with at least 18 for the long runs. Remember a run is out and back not just one way when you figure resistance and if for nothing else the 18 just might last longer moving around in there.

I've used Defender Marine also for connectors and switches.

Good luck and you'll like the topping lift,

Sumner

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[Justin_NSA]

Thanks Sum

 

[walt]

I'm thinking LED lights could get by with 20ga wire.

If you get the type of LED light that works over a very wide range (like both 12 and 24 volts), you could go with even smaller than 20 gauge for the mast run and it wont affect the brightness at all.

But... the 18 gauge is not a bad idea simply because of the mechanical issue.

 

[Justin_NSA]

I'm going to be looking for a way to support the wire cables so they aren't just hanging from the light connections. A clamp or something attached to the inside of the mast near the top.

 

[Cruiser1]

I'm going to be looking for a way to support the wire cables so they aren't just hanging from the light connections. A clamp or something attached to the inside of the mast near the top.

I connected a bow shackle to one of the bolts on my head crane and secured the cables with a cord. Like you, I was concerned about the fact that all that weight was supported by the light connections.