Johnson or Yamaha Outboard??

justsomeguy · Oct 21, 2014

I think you'll be fine. G'luck.

At the risk of thread drift, I wonder if Garelick sells just the motor mount plate?

I've sent 'em an email.

woodster · Oct 21, 2014

if you are worried about the motor jumping ship put a safety lanyard on it to tether it and secure it to the boat some kind of way to not enter fear with operation and go for it

caguy · Oct 21, 2014

Why not mount it in the center? There is less influence from healing in either direction if mounted in the center. I would have mounted mine in the center on my C27 but there is a center transom ladder that prohibited it. Since your rudder is tucked under mounting inn the center should not be a problem.
Mounting on the side of the transom should not pose a propulsion problem either. The only problem with it there is as stated earlier with a slight heal in high seas you prop will leave the water occasionally.

Joe · Oct 21, 2014

eugenesdream24 said:
It will be under weight, but will the high thrust be an issue? I'm very slow and gentle under motor so I doubt I'll ever push it too hard. Rough seas could be a potential issue too. Just weighing my options for the least headaches and best performance.

Hi thrust prop gives you more power, less top end speed. it's like a lower gear... the prop's pitch is less than what might be appropriate for a planning motor boat. Most sailboat out boards would be more effective, and more efficient, with a high thrust prop.

kloudie1 · Oct 21, 2014

Off center is fine.. Most smaller, outboard powered boats have the engine off set for easier access.

Bob J. · Oct 21, 2014

It's an interesting concept installing an outboard on the transom plus thinking of an electric yacht repower down the road. You could end up with the best of both worlds.

Ward H · Oct 21, 2014

My bracket is mounted off parallel to the centerline of the boat. Just means I need to turn the OB so it is parallel to the boat centerline, not square to the bracket.
Once thing to look for on the 2001 Yamaha. I had a 2002 with electric choke. Lots of issues getting it started. It had a critical starting procedure which if not followed, it would be very hard starting. The thin I hated was that when in neutral the throttle was locked from turning. This meant if it was struggling a little bit you couldn't goose the throttle to keep it running.
I was told by two dealers that if the electric choke failed there were no spare parts for it.
As I understood it Yamaha tried the electric choke for a couple of years and then went back to manual choke. My new T9.9 has a manual choke and which I rarely need to use.
One other thought which I think you are addressing. Since the stern of your boat was not built to support a OB, reinforce it well.

Brian D · Oct 21, 2014

My thoughts would not be on the mount, but the glass the mount is attached to. It would seem that given a hard hit the weight of the motor and mount could damage the glass. I could be way out in left field here, but just a thought.

woodster · Oct 21, 2014

Brian D said:
My thoughts would not be on the mount, but the glass the mount is attached to. It would seem that given a hard hit the weight of the motor and mount could damage the glass. I could be way out in left field here, but just a thought.

i am thinking use a large backing plate on the inside to spread the load out some ....as for shimming the offset i would not worry much about doing that as you can set the direction of the motor to run straight ahead and lock the swivel in the tiller shaft in that position ..after all you steer with the boats tiller anyway ..most sail drives are set rigid so what would be the diff

RIVERCRUISER · Oct 22, 2014

eugenesdream24 said:
Definitely going to do that.

OK, here is my last dumb question... :neutral:

My Irwin has a pretty significant curve in the transom. I want to put the bracket in the port quarter or corner for easy installation as I can get back there through my lazarette access easier then centered or starboard mounted.

Why not fabricate a wedge shaped spacer from laminated ply or a thick block of wood to position motor parallel to centerline? Coat w/epoxy and paint and
then install between mount and transom.

Ward H · Oct 22, 2014

A lot of O'days came with transom wedges which is exactly what your asking about. Should work well for you. Be sure to use long bolts and they go all the way into the inside of the transom and your reinforcement backing plate.

bffatcat · Oct 22, 2014

outboard???

You have a boat with a displacement of 8000 lbs. This is heavy for a 9.9 hp outboard
I have a pearson 26W at 5200 lbs My 3 year old 8hp tohatsu pushes the boat at hull speed 3/4 throttle in medium air 10 kts the motor weights 83 lbs The old mercury 2 cycle 8hp that came
with the boat when I bought it needed full throttle to move forward against the same kind of breeze. My opinion: your trying to move a lot of weight with an old 9.9 motor. did you check
the transom specs Does the transom need beefing up I suspect you might need more HP to push the boat into a breeze in any kind of chop. Be careful! good luck

MrBill_FLL · Oct 23, 2014

Unless I missed it, nobody asked about how long the shaft's of these engine are.

A common problem on most transom mounted ob's is they cavitate in a chopy seas.

So, when you are exiting a harbor, where its narrow and choppy, the engine can come out of the water, and you have no power... that's also bad for the impeller.
raising the main helps steady the boat, but its still an issue.

they work fine in flat water, but channels can be trouble....

I would want the longest shaft possible, even if it means going to a large engine...
-using vasoline around the sealing cowl cover helps waterproof it, if you have to lower it so much it goes under water...

-ymmv.