I have an acrylic companionway door/divider on my O'Day 222. It takesupalotof space to store. Any advise in cutting it I half, without trashing it, would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dale
Thanks,
Dale
Cutting a acrylic companionway door
- Thread starter daleyellin
- Start date
cutting
They make special table saw blades, but you can also use a router. The router works best in my opinion, leaves a nicer edge. I've found the table saw blades can bind and melt the plastic too easily, and the carbide tipped blades leave a chunky edge.
see this site for more: http://www.bcae1.com/plexi.htm
They make special table saw blades, but you can also use a router. The router works best in my opinion, leaves a nicer edge. I've found the table saw blades can bind and melt the plastic too easily, and the carbide tipped blades leave a chunky edge.
see this site for more: http://www.bcae1.com/plexi.htm
Take it to your local glazier/glass shop. I think they scribe it and snap it into. Won't cost much. Chief
My 192 has original drop boards (I think they are original.) The joint between the two is cut at 45º and angled downward to the outside of the cabin, so that rain running down the outside won't drip inward. Also, there is a doubler strip of plexi glued to the inside, on the top of the bottom board, and the bottom of the top board, so that there's a full 1/2" thickness where they meet. The slots the boards drop into are sized to accept 1/2". I've thought about making a 1/2" ply short "equipment board" to drop in while sailing, but I kinda scrapped the idea when I got a suction cup mount for my iPhone Life Proof case, and a suction cup utility carrier that gets stuck to the transom and holds my cup, VHF, and monocular.
I've had excellent results using a carbide cross-cut combo blade as the wide tooth spacing spits out the waste without allowing it to gather in the cut and create friction. Mind you, I think most any carbide tooth would do the job but they MUST be SHARP and don't push it.
After cutting, use Brian S' idea on bevelling the edges with a 45 deg. router.
After cutting, use Brian S' idea on bevelling the edges with a 45 deg. router.
Nice article Mdid
I think the 1/2" plastic may be too thick to score and snap. He also needs to cut at an angle as pointed out.
A router works for cleaning up rough edges or beveling but not for cutting. I found that the best way to clean up and edge was to use the scraper as pointed out in article. I was able to get a mirror like finish with the scrapper that I could not get with fine wet and dry paper. I new about the special carbide blades but could not find one locally. I did find them online but by the time you pay for shipping and handling and the week delay in shipping , I decided to try the Harbor Freight blade pictured on a test sample and it cut clean enough. I used a 30* router to bevel the edge and finished with (instead of the blade) a tool bit inserted into a file handle.
Dale, if you are trying to cut your existing 1 piece into 2, keep in mind you will lose material due to saw kerf, routing, etc. which may or may not be a concern for you. If you are cutting a 1 piece down to 2, I might do the cut on a table saw set to 45º, so as to only lose 1/8" or so for the saw kerf. Losing too much height means the hatch boards won't tuck up under the lip of the sliding hatch. Conversely, too much height may mean you can't lift the hatch lip up over the drop boards.
I've had reasonable success cutting acrylic using a "muli-tool" (I think that is the name?) Anyway, it is one of those oscilating cutting tools (hand-held) that has various assorted types of blades, it also works as a sander or scraper depending on which attachment you use. I used the blade that is semi-circular and it made a pretty smooth, straight cut that created less than a 1/8" kerf. You still need to scrape or smooth the cut edges ,and it isn't the fastest way to cut....... but it worked for me!
Wish I could remember the most popular brand........ But the one I used was from Harbor Freight and was like $19.99?
Depending on thickness, and material, I have used that score and snap technique with both great success and heartbreaking failure.
Wish I could remember the most popular brand........ But the one I used was from Harbor Freight and was like $19.99?
Depending on thickness, and material, I have used that score and snap technique with both great success and heartbreaking failure.
You may want to consider how old the door is. Will it be prone to cracking? While all of the suggested methods will work for newish acrylic, catch a tooth with a table saw and a crack will start. I'd be tempted to use an abrasive wheel from both sides and a very light touch.
But this is only if it is old and beginning to craze. If you use a table saw, set the depth very shallow since the material is thin; less risk of damage.
But this is only if it is old and beginning to craze. If you use a table saw, set the depth very shallow since the material is thin; less risk of damage.
that is one of the recommended tools of choice along with a saber/jig saw
Door goes behind step
On my 222 the door slides nicely behind the cabin step and the end of the cockpit. Try it. Easier than cutting.
Thanks for all of the suggestions. Using parts of several of the responses, I successfully cut my companion way hatch. A couple of pictures are attached.
The cut was made on a table saw using a Diablo 7 1/4" 60 tooth "ultra finish" carbide blade set at 45 degrees. (Home Depot, under $20.) The acrylic was taped on both sides before making the 45 degree cut (Thanks, Brian). After making the cut, and removing the tape, I sanded the sharp edge of both pieces, just a little, to slightly smooth the edge and, hopefully, prevent future chipping.
The selected blade, in addition the relatively high tooth count, is extremely thin kerf, 1/16", so minimal hatch material was lost from the cut. The result, when the hatch is in place you can't notice any change in fit or height.
The cut was made on a table saw using a Diablo 7 1/4" 60 tooth "ultra finish" carbide blade set at 45 degrees. (Home Depot, under $20.) The acrylic was taped on both sides before making the 45 degree cut (Thanks, Brian). After making the cut, and removing the tape, I sanded the sharp edge of both pieces, just a little, to slightly smooth the edge and, hopefully, prevent future chipping.
The selected blade, in addition the relatively high tooth count, is extremely thin kerf, 1/16", so minimal hatch material was lost from the cut. The result, when the hatch is in place you can't notice any change in fit or height.
Attachments
Getting Warm -- I appreciated your suggestion of storing the hatch behind the step and did try it. Unfortunately, it restricted access to my cooler and some other "stuff" I store adjacent to the cooler. Consequently, I reverted to the "cutting" plan.
Thanks,
Dale
Thanks,
Dale