mast wiring connectors

Feb 14, 2010
156
Hunter H33C Quincy, MA
I have my mast down re-doing the lights, I'm looking for guidance on the best type of connector to use The boat is an '81 Hunter 33, deck stepped mast with the wires connected internally and then down into the compression post. The connector on there now is the type with the phenolic base, and either pins or "tubes" (male/female); usually three or four wire. There's no mechanism to lock the connection, so I don't feel real good about it - what are other options?
 

capejt

.
May 17, 2004
276
Hunter 33_77-83 New London, CT
I just did this

I just did this with my '79 H33 a year or two ago. Terminal strips are a great idea, but I took it a step further with a waterproof junction box on the deck and one on the mast. I used "trailer light" plugs to connect the two boxes.
If you have a masthead antenna like so many of us, this would also be a good time to inspect and think about replacing that cable too. I upgraded to a "beefier" cable which meant rerunning though the cabin to the radio, but well worth the trouble.
 
Sep 14, 2013
30
Hunter 34 Seattle, WA
I just did this with my '79 H33 a year or two ago. Terminal strips are a great idea, but I took it a step further with a waterproof junction box on the deck and one on the mast. I used "trailer light" plugs to connect the two boxes.
If you have a masthead antenna like so many of us, this would also be a good time to inspect and think about replacing that cable too. I upgraded to a "beefier" cable which meant rerunning though the cabin to the radio, but well worth the trouble.
Do you have any pictures or links of the junction box and trailer light plugs? I have my mast down now and am trying to figure out how best to rewire.
 

slaume

.
Feb 21, 2014
105
Cape Dory 30 C Noank
The trailer plugs are easy but prone to problems. With buss bars you can use standard crimp fittings and screw them fast. I have eliminated the plug type fittings all over my boat. Mast light circuits usually fail at the deck plugs. Housing them in a water proof box is a step in the right direction but bringing the connections below the deck and using buss bars is an even better solution. I also eliminated the trailer type plugs in the engine wiring harness. They are hard to keep clean and are a fairly common source of voltage drop. Taking the connections below deck also makes for a very clean look, Steve.
 
Sep 14, 2013
30
Hunter 34 Seattle, WA
The trailer plugs are easy but prone to problems. With buss bars you can use standard crimp fittings and screw them fast. I have eliminated the plug type fittings all over my boat. Mast light circuits usually fail at the deck plugs. Housing them in a water proof box is a step in the right direction but bringing the connections below the deck and using buss bars is an even better solution. I also eliminated the trailer type plugs in the engine wiring harness. They are hard to keep clean and are a fairly common source of voltage drop. Taking the connections below deck also makes for a very clean look, Steve.
That does sound better. So a terminal block is the way to go? Where do you recommend I put the block? I have my compression post off right nite, so I have options. My boat is a H34 btw. Steve
 

slaume

.
Feb 21, 2014
105
Cape Dory 30 C Noank
For my mast wiring, I use the Blue Sea clams to to through the deck. The beauty of these is that you can leave the terminal fittings on the wires to feed them through and they will still seal around the wire casing. My boat has a deck stepped mast with a teak access plate in the liner right under the mast. That is where I put the terminal block for all the mast lights. I mounted the block with velcro, so it is easier to get at when I want to mess with the connections. If it should come lose there is nothing but non conducting material in there so all would be well but it has stayed in place very well. For the radar I ran the mast wire a bit further to have it exit near the bulkhead in the head, where I mounted a metal box to provide shielding. Those radar wires are tiny. The box also provides strain relief for the connections. By running all of these wires below deck the, the connections are never exposed to the elements. It also makes for a very clean look, both above and below deck, Steve.
 
Sep 14, 2013
30
Hunter 34 Seattle, WA
For my mast wiring, I use the Blue Sea clams to to through the deck. The beauty of these is that you can leave the terminal fittings on the wires to feed them through and they will still seal around the wire casing. My boat has a deck stepped mast with a teak access plate in the liner right under the mast. That is where I put the terminal block for all the mast lights. I mounted the block with velcro, so it is easier to get at when I want to mess with the connections. If it should come lose there is nothing but non conducting material in there so all would be well but it has stayed in place very well. For the radar I ran the mast wire a bit further to have it exit near the bulkhead in the head, where I mounted a metal box to provide shielding. Those radar wires are tiny. The box also provides strain relief for the connections. By running all of these wires below deck the, the connections are never exposed to the elements. It also makes for a very clean look, both above and below deck, Steve.
I'm considering making strait runs with no connectors, all the way from the light fixtures on the mast, down through the step, and all the way over to the panel. I know that I wouldn't be able to take the mast back down without either unwiring from the panel or cutting wires at the step, but I'm putting a brand new wind transducer and cabling in as well as all new standing rigging for my mast, so I shouldn't have to pull it down again. Any thoughts on this? I think this would be simple and there would be nothing to corrode. I don't have an easy access plate anywhere to mount a terminal block on my Hunter 34. Do you see any reason why I shouldn't just make straight runs?
 
Jan 22, 2008
1,661
Hunter 34 Alameda CA
I'm considering making strait runs with no connectors, all the way from the light fixtures on the mast, down through the step, and all the way over to the panel. I know that I wouldn't be able to take the mast back down without either unwiring from the panel or cutting wires at the step, but I'm putting a brand new wind transducer and cabling in as well as all new standing rigging for my mast, so I shouldn't have to pull it down again. Any thoughts on this? I think this would be simple and there would be nothing to corrode. I don't have an easy access plate anywhere to mount a terminal block on my Hunter 34. Do you see any reason why I shouldn't just make straight runs?

Steve,

When I rewired mine, I left a very long tail on the wires and connected them to a terminal block inside the forward settee where the holding tank is. That way as you say, it can be disconnected again if necessary. As I recall, I taped all the wires together to make it easier to feed back down inside the boat. You can take the top off that settee to gain access and, in my case, mount the terminal block right on the bulkhead. Make sure when you feed the wires down through that standpipe up on top that the wires form a loop so rainwater can't flow down them and into the areas that are prone to rotting.

I still left a screw connector on my VHF antenna lead under the mast. After putting it together I wrapped it well with electrical tape. That's the only connector I have outside the boat for the mast.

Allan
 
Sep 14, 2013
30
Hunter 34 Seattle, WA
Make sure when you feed the wires down through that standpipe up on top that the wires form a loop so rainwater can't flow down them and into the areas that are prone to rotting.
Is it possible to use Blue Sea clams?

 
Jan 22, 2008
1,661
Hunter 34 Alameda CA
Is it possible to use Blue Sea clams?

I'm thinking those are good for a single wire because it would be round. If you could get a jacket around the entire bundle it might seal, but I don't know for sure. Then you have to seal the jacket and the spaces formed by the individual wires next to each other.

As my mast was being reinstalled, the last thing I did at the top of the pipe was to squirt a heavy load of silicone that would cure up and form a seal. I still looped the wires as well.
 
Sep 14, 2013
30
Hunter 34 Seattle, WA
I'm thinking those are good for a single wire because it would be round. If you could get a jacket around the entire bundle it might seal, but I don't know for sure. Then you have to seal the jacket and the spaces formed by the individual wires next to each other.

As my mast was being reinstalled, the last thing I did at the top of the pipe was to squirt a heavy load of silicone that would cure up and form a seal. I still looped the wires as well.
Ok thank you. I'm also trying to figure out exactly which wires go to what. I have about five single wires that went down my compression post and under my holding tank (one red, one green, a larger black wire, etc.), and also three other groups of wires which ran from just underneath the step immediately to the port side. I believe one is my VHF coax and one of the other two being my wind transducer cable (which I want to replace w/ a new transducer and cabling). Also routed to the port side are two wires that look like speaker wire, which appear to be out of place. Any idea which wires go to exactly what? I may need to spend some more time ripping things up to figure out just what's going on. They sure didn't make it very easy. =(
 
Oct 14, 2005
2,191
1983 Hunter H34 North East, MD
Steve...

You should always have some form of connection break inside the mast at the base. Otherwise, with direct runs you would need to cut the wires to take down the mast, which would probably lead to having too short of wire length when you go to reconnet the wires. There are water-proof plug/sockets available, but a waterproof junction box with screwed down connections on a barrier strip would probably be the best solution.

Those clams aren't tall enough to prevent the collection of moisture inside the mast from overflowing them through the gaps between the wires they are meant to contain if the weep holes ever get plugged up with debris.

You didn't mention what year your H34 was, but from '84 on they used a different mast and the tube feeding the wires through the deck became a source of water penetration and ultimate cross-beam/compression post failures as it wasn't tall enough. Make sure yours is.

PS: Speaker-like wires = power to spreader lights?

PPS: Re-read Allan's advice and would say that it is a good alternative to connections made inside the mast itself.
 
Sep 14, 2013
30
Hunter 34 Seattle, WA
You should always have some form of connection break inside the mast at the base. Otherwise, with direct runs you would need to cut the wires to take down the mast, which would probably lead to having too short of wire length when you go to reconnet the wires. There are water-proof plug/sockets available, but a waterproof junction box with screwed down connections on a barrier strip would probably be the best solution.

Those clams aren't tall enough to prevent the collection of moisture inside the mast from overflowing them through the gaps between the wires they are meant to contain if the weep holes ever get plugged up with debris.

You didn't mention what year your H34 was, but from '84 on they used a different mast and the tube feeding the wires through the deck became a source of water penetration and ultimate cross-beam/compression post failures as it wasn't tall enough. Make sure yours is.

PS: Speaker-like wires = power to spreader lights?

PPS: Re-read Allan's advice and would say that it is a good alternative to connections made inside the mast itself.
Well, my mast is down now and I'm replacing everything. If I had to pull it down again, cutting wires would be the least of my concerns. I would put a terminal box inside the cabin somewhere, but I can't find an easy spot to put it. It was suggested that I put it under the seat where the holding tank is housed, but that would mean that I would have to run wires down the compression post and likely back up again and over to the port side, unless I can get wires from that seat area and under the floorboards.

I have an '86 with a Kenyon mast. I'm replacing the compression post right now due to the poor design, which allows water below the deck just as you described. I still have to track where exactly the wires that ran inside the compression post go. I'm not at the boat at the moment, but I believe one is red, one is green, and there's a few black ones (I could have this confused). They run right under the holding tank and, from there, I'm not sure exactly where they go. The speakers wires aren't for spreader lights - I think they were used for either the deck or steaming light...not sure why. They certainly don't appear to be marine grade.

Do you happen to have any links to the waterproof plugs that you recommend? I'm thinking I need to run a three-strand wire up to the masthead, my VHF coax, and my new cabling for the new wind transducer, and then a second three-strand up to my steaming light. All four runs will have to somehow make their way through my deck step. This is the wire I was looking at for the masthead and steaming light runs. I'm thinking 12-gauge should be fine?
 
Oct 17, 2011
2,809
Ericson 29 Southport..
That's some mighty fat wire to run up a mast. The calculations would dispute this, but a simple light on the mast should require no more than a 16 ga. With LED's even smaller..
 

Apex

.
Jun 19, 2013
1,211
C&C 30 Elk Rapids
grainger or mcmaster carr will have tinned wire, any number of conductors as well as mil-spec connectors. that is the route i will go again on the new to us O'Day. NOTE: The outer sheeth is very thick as well.
 

slaume

.
Feb 21, 2014
105
Cape Dory 30 C Noank
Whenever I run any wires on the boat I try to leave a loop, or two, of extra wire, neatly tied up and out of sight. This gives me enough wire to cut off the connectors and redo the ends, several times. If you are going to make continuous wire runs at least leave enough extra wire so you could easily install some sort of connectors should, or rather when, you need to take the mast down.

The clams seal tight and are best used with wire that has a round jacket. I have three of them at the base of the mast. You can also put in a blank plug to seal them if your mast comes down for winter stowage.

I do have some exposed wires below deck on my boat. They are run in nice straight bundles and very well tied. I feel that access is far more important than not having any visible wires. I have been able to tuck most of the wiring away but have some exposed at the mast base and the radio.

Neatness counts with wiring, Steve.
 
Sep 14, 2013
30
Hunter 34 Seattle, WA
Great advice!! I'm really hoping never to have to take my mast down again. I plan on having the boat for about another ten years, and I'm redoing all the standing rigging and all wiring now, so hopefully this will be it. I will leave extra wire loops hidden somewhere just in case I do need to take it down someday unexpectedly. =)

Steve
 

slaume

.
Feb 21, 2014
105
Cape Dory 30 C Noank
Or be kind to the next owner. This also applies to bedding with 5200. Just because it will not effect you doesn't mean the next guy will not have to deal with it, Steve.