If I leave a reasonable amount of extra wire looped, I think the next owner could easily cut it and install a terminal block if he needed to.
mast wiring connectors
- Thread starter fiestaMojo
- Start date
Wire example...
Black/White/Green is alternating current (AC) wiring. You want the Black/Red or some other combination that would be understood to be DC wire.
Black/White/Green is alternating current (AC) wiring. You want the Black/Red or some other combination that would be understood to be DC wire.
Here is a link to one of such connectors:
http://www.sea-dog.com/groups/1989-polarized-molded-electrical-connector
I used one for 6 years without problem outside of the mast (exposed to weather) on my C&C 24 and now I am installing one inside the mast on my C270. It is polarised, so there should be no issue of mis-connecting it.
http://www.sea-dog.com/groups/1989-polarized-molded-electrical-connector
I used one for 6 years without problem outside of the mast (exposed to weather) on my C&C 24 and now I am installing one inside the mast on my C270. It is polarised, so there should be no issue of mis-connecting it.
Ok, so here's what I'm looking at. I have three wires that lead from just under the mast step immediately to port. They are my wind transducer cable, my VHF antenna coax, and steaming light power. (I'm going to replace all three of these. The wires that go straight down the compression post are my anchor light, and I'm not sure about the rest. I think the thick black wire and at least one of the other two skinny black wires and the green wire are grounds, but not 100% sure. My two questions are: 1.) am I accurate in what the wires represent, and 2.) why didn't Hunter lead all wires immediately to port, as they end up on the port side anyways at the panel. These wires lead under my holding tank, and then appear over just aft of my sink on the port side. What's the best route back to the panel with the new wires? (Sorry for the image rotation).
B/w/g is NOT necessarily alternating wire. On three boats I've had, that wire is what OEM used for anchor light, steaming light, and ground.
One of the best investments you can make to figure out any wiring or electrical problem is a digital volt meter. Once you find a ground wire you can hook it up to any of the other wires and switch on circuits to find out which wires are powering them.
I keep a meter, in a water proof container, on the boat. you never know when you might need to track something down and the meter makes the job much easier. I would also recommend a copy of Don Casey's book on marine wiring. That might also live on the boat, at least until you start to get an idea of what is going on, Steve.
I keep a meter, in a water proof container, on the boat. you never know when you might need to track something down and the meter makes the job much easier. I would also recommend a copy of Don Casey's book on marine wiring. That might also live on the boat, at least until you start to get an idea of what is going on, Steve.
Steve,
These wires lead under my holding tank, and then appear over just aft of my sink on the port side. What's the best route back to the panel with the new wires? (Sorry for the image rotation).
As I recall when I rewired from my terminal block in the holding tank settee to the panel I fished through the holes in the grid that were either used for the previous wires or along side the water lines. They bridge the keel under the cabin sole and come back up on the port side. Check at how the wiring to your fresh water pump goes back to the panel. Once you get up to the level of the lights and electrical outlets, that is a wire chase that you can reach inside by removing either the eyeball lights or electrical boxes.
Allan
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Thanks for that picture Allan! I'm hoping not to have to take the sole apart, but that might be an option. I'm thinking, though, that I can just go from immeidately under the mast step to port, and not even have to put any wires down the compression post. I think I can access these wires through the lights and fixtures and right back to the panel. Do you see any problem with going that route?
Steve
Didn't mean to imply that you needed to pull up the sole. That's just a picture of another poster's boat to show where alternatives are to fish stuff across the boat either inside a beam or outside.
From your picture, you have more wires exiting from the deck and going to the port side than I do. That is the most direct way to the electrical panel. I think a terminal strip in the vanity slider would be a good idea as it lets you break the job into a couple of easier tasks. You can do your relatively short run from the panel to the vanity first. Then while the mast is being set, push the wire bundle to port and hook up to the terminals. Its going to be a bit difficult anyway as the compression post will have to be in place to take the mast load and you'll be pulling a lot of wire that has to go to port. How do you get wires out the side of the compression post? It looks like you have modified that transverse piece of wood already so you have a block (I hope not wood) on top of your post that pushes right up under the deck? The deck or beam inside does not support the weight of the mast. The mast is supported by a solid couple directly under the deck including something in the beam and then the post. The mast is slightly forward of the compression post so the wires come through something and have to exit to the side in the case of the original VHF and now your extra wires.
Here is a picture of how mine was when the wood above failed and the deck pushed down. You can see that crossways piece of wood had a big notch taken out of it and the post only supported the back part of it via the skin of the beam. Then the wires could go in the groove to port. But with the inadequate support it all crushed down. My solution was to put a block of aluminum with a hole drilled in the side to turn the wire to port as well as one drilled down at an angle for the wires into the settee. I got rid of the entire chunk of wood, but now realize that's not necessary. It just needs a strong support block right on top of the post that won't settle over time.
Too much information, right? I still like the idea of a terminal to easily separate the wires. You can also have a pull string if you need to drag more, or the same wires in the event that mast has to come off again and you won't have to pull the compression post.
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This picture was actually taken about half way through my process of removing the portion of the wooden beam. I've decided to remove a fairly large chunk of the beam - maybe more than I needed to, but oh well. I will be having machined a piece a stainless steel approximately 13"x5"x2.5" (I'll have to measure again to get the exact size). I'm going to then have a hole drilled through the center for the wires and channels leading both port and starboard. I will have my light fixture power/ground wires leading immediately to port. I like your idea of a terminal block. I'll then lead the wind transducer cable and the radar cable immediately to starboard. I will snake it aft all the way to the starboard lazarette and then to the helm, where I'll run it up to a Navpod for the chart plotter and wind gauge.
I have a 2"x2" piece of SS tubing (69") and metal plates, which I will put in place, then put the original wooden compression post around it to hide it. I'm assuming I'll need to screw the upper and lower plate into position? I'm thinking there won't be much side load on it.
Very robust repair. With the provision for running the wires it should be really good. You are right about no side loads. Once the mast is set and tensioned and the old compression post shell is reattached to the bulkhead its not going anywhere. Maybe just a bit of epoxy for the plates to keep them in place during assembly.
Arggg...this is frustrating. Which do I need for the bar above my compression post? This is from online metals: (I have the measurements on the boat, but it's approximately 2.5" x 5" x 13".)
ALUMINUM FLAT BAR
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]Please choose from one of the following subcategories:
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ALUMINUM FLAT BAR
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]Please choose from one of the following subcategories:
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I used weatherpack connectors on mine. sure connection and no water infiltration. used under hood on autos. http://www.weatherpack.com/