Where to attach tether?

Paul F · Dec 6, 2013

I don't know your boat, but attach the safety harness to deck mounted stainless steel fitting. Some boats have U bolts attached through the deck for this purpose. It is likely your boat does not have these U bolts. Any strong attachment will work. Maybe a cleat attachment will work.

Mulf · Dec 6, 2013

West Marine's Advice on this topic

...is at this link:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...talogId=10001&page=Safety-Harnesses-Jacklines

For bad weather or offshore sailing I rig Jacklines down both side decks from the each bow cleat to the same side stern cleat. Clip on before you leave the cockpit. I also mounted a fixed pad eye where I can clip on in the cockpit and be able to move from the helm to the winches without disconnecting.
(In hind site one of these would have been better http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...toreNum=50045&subdeptNum=50046&classNum=50053.)

The idea is that you stay attached to the boat but still be able to move around as needed.

sailaway78 · Dec 6, 2013

What ever you do

I single hand a lot offshore. When the stuff hits the fan, I clip in on both sides of the cockpit, with lines tied to cleats, and just enough slack to move around some, but not enough for me to go over the side. No matter what you do, if you go over the side when your by yourself, chances are you ain't getting back on the boat.

seamansg · Dec 6, 2013

Hi, I have a 2001 catalina22 and I run a safety line from the bow cleat or a front stantion to the back cleat or stantion on the outside of the boat on the starboard side. Then with one end of jack line reach over the top of the life lines and connect onto the safety line. I have 2 D rings on my off shore life vest that I connect the other end of the tether to. I have about 8+ feet of tether to reach to the other side of the boat to make adjustments etc.. That makes it so I absolutely will not fall over board on the port side where the outboard motor is or when sailing. The thinking is if some one (the captain) falls overboard the tether line will work its way to the back of the boat and hopefully that person will be able to have the right amount of tether via a knot tied in the safety line so he can grab the swim ladder and hopefully board the moving boat. I've also had a problem with pulling an anchor on board in rough water and almost slipping off the boat under the lifeline and into the water. So I also installed netting or webbing for the first 8ft of the boat to prevent that. A very good idea. Also an auto pilot does wonders as you don't need a second person to be at the helm while making sail adjustments or pulling the anchor and can sail for miles with out having to do anything but sit back and relax and watch her sail. Many people recommend the Ray Marine 2000 auto helm rather than the 1000 as its faster and responds better than the 1000 and their both about $500 and come with a 3yr warranty and you can buy another 2 or 3yr warranty also.

Dalliance · Dec 6, 2013

sailaway78 said:
I single hand a lot offshore. When the stuff hits the fan, I clip in on both sides of the cockpit, with lines tied to cleats, and just enough slack to move around some, but not enough for me to go over the side. No matter what you do, if you go over the side when your by yourself, chances are you ain't getting back on the boat.

An expert solo sailor (don't recall his name), who did a presentation at my yacht club last summer about his experiences racing, said that he drapes a dock line along the topsides on each side of the boat, from bow cleat or a forward stanchion to the stern cleat. The purpose of these lines is to provide a foothold to help him climb back on board if he were to go over on his tether and jackline. Can't say I've tried this yet, but it sounded like a pretty good idea. He noted the only downside was that people yell at him about having a line in the water.

Chris Patterson · Dec 7, 2013

Being familiar with the C22, and jacklines, actually you have the right idea. Yep, just put an eye bolt near the winch point near the doorway. Make sure it is out of the way to walk, or you'll curse it, remove it, never to be used again. Ideally you want to clip on when leaving the cabin, and remain that way to the helm. Going for'd should take another line. These lines should be as such that if you flat bust your ass on the boat you can't go over. Fall in with an unattended C22 it'll round up quickly if you go over. But really. The whole idea is to STAY ON THE BOAT. Once in the water, bad news. If it is on autopilot and no one to stop it, cut the tether and take a deep breath. Of water. Get it over with.

Take your boat underway, and tie ANYTHING to the end of a line and throw it overboard. A sack, bucket, old rags, a kite under the keel, whatever. Now gather a bunch of this junk until it weighs 170 pounds. Throw it over. I will at this point advise you to have good cleats.

For that matter, try it yourself. Have the mate move the boat at ONE KNOT, while you troll behind it on a ski-rope or whatever. Get back on the boat.
Sure the very athletic of some of us can do it, but really.
No, if you're in the water, there ye shall remain.
Tight tethers; are happy tethers.

Nuther thing. Consider the dynamics of a line. Some boats that have very long jacklines are silly. Attached firmly on a for'd cleat and to the base of a mast, the right amount of linear force would jerk the mast base clean off a tabernacle. Same thing for every stanchion and lifeline on the boat when the slack took up.

Oh yeah, sorry for the rant. I just see to many "offshore boats" with the silliest looking crap called 'jacklines'. A nice bow-eye securely placed will work fine. Right above the cockpit drain points on the side would work. You can't get your feet in that corner to kick it.

Charlie Jones s/v Tehani · Dec 7, 2013

On my boat I installed a larger towing U-bolt, in the cabin bulkhead (bulkhead is 3/8 thick there) just outside the companionway. It's backed by a heavy stainless plate on the inside.

I can clip on from below before I come out. I can lay down on the settee, go below to do chart work, etc and go to the mast, but not to the stern. If offshore, I rig jack lines from the bow cleats aft to the winch stands

wufibugs · Dec 7, 2013

Why aren't tethers hooked to something like an auto seat belt retractor that would allow the tether to play out as long as the motion is smooth but locks up when jerked?

justsomeguy · Dec 7, 2013

wufibugs said:
Why aren't tethers hooked to something like an auto seat belt retractor that would allow the tether to play out as long as the motion is smooth but locks up when jerked?

I'd expect cost and maintenance would be the two biggest factors against that.

Chris Patterson · Dec 7, 2013

There actually is such an apparatus. It's a spring loaded spool that does exactly as you describe. A couple hundred bucks I guess, but a hindrance to keep up with. Maybe if they were attached to the boat.
Hmmm....

Chris Patterson · Dec 8, 2013

This is a very poor image of what I was referring to, but Grainger has a listing for a few of these things. Yes I have used them, and yes they are heavy and awkward. Being on a D-ring centered in your back is not TOO bad, but on the front of you on the tether......welllllll, I wouldn't want it there.

Another thing. I own several tethers. They are mine, not for the crew or whatever. Now of COURSE I would let someone use them, but that's not the point. Some are lighter than others, and some are a tad longer or shorter depending upon the job and the conditions. I use a very light tether I made out of 5/16" stayset with Wichard snap hooks. A quieter day with me alone on the deck it will hold me just fine, and I venture it would actually hold a truck onboard, it just doesn't really LOOK that substantial. More like a dog leash.
And a true offshore tether that doubtfully would ever be hooked onto the same harness. That harness is meant to survive the situation. It has a central attachment point, with two actual tethers with snap rings on the end of each so you can maintain a 100% tie-off, ie: always keep one of them clipped. But it would look just silly as hell me cruising past a marina or something in calm waters wearing gear like you would use in the Southern Ocean.

One last thing. When I alluded earlier to making some of my own tethers, I would advise, in fact I would urge most people to not even do this. At all. Unless you have a whole lot of experience fooling with such things, and at the end of the construction thereof you can look at it and confidently say, 'I would bet my life on this emphatically', it is best to just buy one.
And the care and maintenance of this equipment is a WHOLE nuther issue. I see most folks equipment crammed in a moldy locker along with their PFD's. (Look around yer buddies boat for this stuff and make an opinion of what the boat is ready for. Or you for that matter).

That little thing I said about the dog leash? If the dog breaks free, he'll probably come back...

thinwater · Dec 8, 2013

There are several posts on my blog re. tethers and engineering of jacklines, but much applies to catamarans, not the OP's boat. A few thoughts that do apply.

a. Standard tethers are too long for small boats. For a 22' boat, 3 is plenty on the side deck or bow. Thee is no reason not to tie your own from 1" climbing webbing. It is certainly strong enough for any situation the OP will see, and you will break a rib before you break the webbing.

b. 2-arm tethers are required on most boats. Above I have pictured 2 variations I played with; in practice, the version on the left works better and is the standard type. Note that I have a wide tramp and so my long leg is longer than most boats should use. These also have shock absorbers (Yates Screamers) since you can take some long falls around the transom of this boat. The OP does not need these. I also shortend the short end considerably after taking the picture--now I can't fall over the railing.

c. Notice my jackline is 3 feet in from the edge. I'm not sure what the right answer is for a small boat. Perhaps on the cabin top would be best, from mast to bow cleat. The anchor point is a climbers bolt hanger (5000 pounds) with a backing plate. I use rope, because they are perminatly rigged, but they are routed so they are not under foot (along an edge. Every boat has it's own best answer.

d. No, I do not have snap shackles at the harness end. That is a whole nuther topic, not relevant here. But certainly on a smaller boat where capsize or falling over the rail is a real possibility, the chest end MUST have a snap shackle. I would if that were the case.

Charlie Jones s/v Tehani · Dec 8, 2013

Basic problem with making your own is cost. The appropriate hooks ( safest kind) cost almost as much bought separately, as a ready made tether does. The strap or tether part is cheap.

Steve Dion · Dec 8, 2013

We like to attach our jack lines (nylon webbing material) to the bow cleats (loop) and the other end to the stern cleats. We normally wet (soak) the lines before attach them, this makes them stretch for tighter attachment.

I would not use a "U" bolt for attachment in the cockpit. I would suggest a folding "D" ring. They fold down when not in use so you don't bang into them when not in use.

thinwater · Dec 8, 2013

TSBB 2 said:
Basic problem with making your own is cost. The appropriate hooks ( safest kind) cost almost as much bought separately, as a ready made tether does. The strap or tether part is cheap.

No.

For a small boat the safest kind is probably the aluminum locking biners I show on the jacklines. ~ $8-10. If you prefer the Kong Tango biners that West Marine is using, they are also available through non-marine sources for $20.

Spin shackes are not that expensive ($65). Personally, I've had too many shake loose to really like them. Bear in mind they are not required by the standard, which should make you pause and consider. Many of us use tethers when single handing, and I really can't imagine a time when I would be using a tether and I would be better off away from the boat; if there is a realistic chance of rescue before hypothermia, I'm probably not wearing a tether, just a PFD. Keep the tethers short the rest of the time.

---

But even if you decide that purchased is better for you, there is still the problems that are too long for many boats, particularly on the side deck. Most of us are not going to be comfortable sewing webbing and there won't be enough materials left for a knot, so you are stuck with a product that doesn't fit properly, which is a hazard with any safety gear. It is not that I favor home-made gear--I do not--but I don't know how else for a small boat sailor to get what fits. I remember making or modifying stuff for my small children many years ago, because their was nothing suitable on the market; fortunately, that situation has improved.

Gunni · Dec 8, 2013

thinwater said:
No, I do not have snap shackles at the harness end. That is a whole nuther topic, not relevant here.

Huh? Why would the ability to release yourself under load be irrelevant to ANY discussion about using a tether?

thinwater · Dec 8, 2013

Gunni said:
Huh? Why would the ability to release yourself under load be irrelevant to ANY discussion about using a tether?

Please do not bend words for drama's sake. It is off-topic because the OP's question was where to attach a tether. The focus of my response was jackline location and tether length. That is certainly complex enough.

My reasons are specific to my sort of sailing and my boat and do not logically include the POs boat. I explained, later in the thread.

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