If it helps, you can buy the mast base and deck plate from Blue Water Yachts. $25 for each half. P/N 3438-1X0 and 3439-1X0. The gin pole is 1-1/2" OD x 1/8" wall x 6 ft long aluminium tube, and can be bought online at www.onlinemetals.com, or from BWY, among other places (just a favorite vendor - I have no connection to them). It's actually a little cheaper from BWY, but I don't know how shipping compares. I made my own, for an Aquarius I used to have, using electrical conduit (EMT), which is cheap, and comes in 10 ft lengths, but is heavier than the aluminium.I do like that system, and I have all the material that I will need to do the job. Thank you for your come back and ideas, that other system. That was on u tube looked ok but with my mast I just was not sure,about putting the gin pole on the mast l like your way better. Thank you
As someone said, the M25 had a 9 ft pole, but BWY doesn't sell the long pole and recommends converting to the 6 ft. You may have to move the deck fitting closer to the mast to improve the leverage at the top with a shorter pole, though that leverage is only needed if you're going to crank hard to make the forestay fitting with the shrouds adjusted properly and no Johnson lever on the forestay.
I use a 5-part block system, mainly because I had some better quality blocks laying around with no job to do, but the standard fiddle blocks MacGregor used for the boom vang work fine, if not with a bit more effort when the mast is near horizontal. If it's a day sail, I can leave the MRS strapped to the mast with the lower block secured and it won't get in the way, and I believe you can do the same with the late model version, though that winch makes me wonder if the is a risk of sail damage. But it only takes a few extra seconds to unpin it and stow it below.
Oh, and if you make your own, use long machine screws to mount the eye straps at the outboard end such that the load from the running rigging (fiddle block) goes through the eye strap, through the bolts, and to the other eye strap, then on to the halyard (assuming you're using the jib halyard for this) and the aluminium only has to see shear from the bolts. The load passes straight through the bolts, in other words, and the aluminium isn't being 'pulled apart' as it would be if short fasteners were used on each eye strap.
Good luck with it.