Got Questions? Ask Them Here.

R

RIVERCRUISER

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Dec 3, 2013
169
HUNTER 29.5 PORT CHARLOTTE FL
Rodd said:
Storing in water this winter(first mistake!!).- Have an accumulation of ice and slush on deck as aft most drain is frozen about a foot below the deck level and water is not running off the deck. Is there anything I can poor down the hose to break up the ice that is blocking the drain, or would you recommend a hair dryer or heat gun near the hose? This hose drains to a thru hull that is about 2 inches above the water line and has no seacock to shut. I am concerned and would like to free up this drain.

Thanks for any ideas.

Rodd
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denatured alcohol???????
 
Maine Sail

Maine Sail

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Feb 6, 1998
11,675
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Rodd said:
wondering if using heat tape (3 foot @20watt or 6 foot @42watt) would work --and be somewhat safe when wrapped around 1 1/2 inch wire reinforced hose that leads from the deck drain to the thru hull.
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That may work but always best to cover the boat.... Try some PG antifreeze then a slow thaw with a heater or heat lamp.. Frozen scuppers can be bad news... Just be glad its not your cockpit scuppers...;)
 
weekendrken

weekendrken

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May 7, 2011
281
C - 30 # 3573 Lake NormanNC formerly Bflo NY
Dan_Yuchnovicz said:
Mr. M. Sail, et. al. - ;-)

I can’t figure out if it’s Type 2 or 3, tinned copper or plain copper stranding. I can’t find CS Wire & Cable on the ‘net except for some hookup wire on eBay.
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JTSO - other opinions may vary. If the cable was new, and not oxidized, and the correct terminals were correctly installed, and properly heat shrink sealed, then tinned cable by itself is not that much of an issue. Not preferred, and not what I would do, but nonetheless not a show stopper.

I always seal battery and other critical lugs with about 2x the amt of heat shrink tubing than "jobbers" and manufacturers use, and always use mil spec for cable ends (say #8 and larger for max wire support to avoid work hardening outside the lug.) Where's there's a chance of movement on smaller crimps (say a mid-wire butt spice), I use 2 or 3 layers of HST - increasing diameter and lengths -- to build a strain relief/flex relief at the crimp.
 
dparilla

dparilla

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Jan 22, 2008
597
Oday 35 and Mariner 2+2 Alexandria, VA
For the hall of fails...

Here are three photos for your hall of fails. I was called this morning to troubleshoot a Universal M25 that was slow starting, and sometimes the starter would engage but not turn over. The owner already replaced his starter and now wanted to replace the start button. One look "behind the curtain revealed the real problem(s)
 

Attachments

Stu Jackson

Stu Jackson

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Feb 26, 2004
22,783
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Engine Wiring Harness CONNECTORS

dparilla said:
Here are three photos for your hall of fails. I was called this morning to troubleshoot a Universal M25 that was slow starting, and sometimes the starter would engage but not turn over. The owner already replaced his starter and now wanted to replace the start button. One look "behind the curtain revealed the real problem(s)
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Maine Sail & I and many others have been warning about this and the M25 alternator bracket for soooo long it's silly.

You can make the information available, but you can't make 'em read it or do it.

Nice of you to help.

I also recommend that skipper read our Critical Upgrades, which include lots of other M25 engine material:

Critical Upgrades http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html
 
dparilla

dparilla

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Jan 22, 2008
597
Oday 35 and Mariner 2+2 Alexandria, VA
Stu Jackson said:
I also recommend that skipper read our Critical Upgrades, which include lots of other M25 engine material:

Critical Upgrades http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html
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I bounced him the link just before I posted the pictures. :dance:

At least I can work on it in the comfort of my house instead of cramped in the boat, and since I made these very changes to my boat a while back, it should be a quick fix.
 
Elysium_Van_Isl

Elysium_Van_Isl

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Jun 5, 2012
144
Catalina 30 mkI Victoria, British Columbia
Applying Waxed Gelcoat

I'm just in the final stages of upgrading and moving some thru-hulls/seacocks. As per Maine's articles, I've re-glassed the hull and mounted all of the backing plates. Things look totally bomb-proof!
Before I start laying up the (waxed) gelcoat in the engine compartment, I just wanted to check with you guys about the application.
I will be brushing it on, and most of the literature out there says to lay up a few coats in short order, only allowing time for the gelcoat to PARTIALLY flash off between coats. But this seems dangerous to me with the waxed variety. You're supposed to continually stir the container as you go to make sure the wax stays mixed, so doesn't that mean that letting it partially flash off after brushing will only bring wax to the surface, thus impeding the bonding of subsequent coats?

Thanks in advance!
 
GorillaToast

GorillaToast

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Sep 2, 2011
1,041
Hunter 27 Cherubini Alum Creek State Park
Heeeeeeeeeeeelp!!! My work is on the left.... Several PO's worth on the right! All that wire mixed in with the batteries!!

Coiled and hanging wires are just there for identification. Still trying to track down everything in that rats nest.
 

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justsomeguy

justsomeguy

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Feb 20, 2011
7,999
Island Packet 35 Tucson, AZ/San Carlos, MX
That's art of a dada-esque form, sir.

Bring her on by, and we'll make it pretty. ;)
 

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justsomeguy

justsomeguy

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Feb 20, 2011
7,999
Island Packet 35 Tucson, AZ/San Carlos, MX
GorillaToast said:
Heeeeeeeeeeeelp!!! My work is on the left.... Several PO's worth on the right! All that wire mixed in with the batteries!!

Coiled and hanging wires are just there for identification. Still trying to track down everything in that rats nest.
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What's a guy to do when someone calls for help?
 
C

Capt jgw

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Feb 8, 2014
1,300
Columbia 36 Muskegon
Sefuller said:
Rod,

We are in fresh water (Lake Michigan) but each season when we haul out I'm noticing more zebra mussels in our scoop style water strainer. I am planning to replace it with a through hull and the Perko 493 strainer in your photos. We have a Universal M-25 with the Oberdorfer 202 water pump, which has 3/8" threads in the inlet. I am wondering what size strainer I should get? Currently our water comes in through 1/2" heater type hose so I'm not sure buying a 3/4" or larger strainer will be of any benefit.

Thanks
Click to expand
Is the Eurasian water milfoil (weeds) bad in your area? A friend had a boat in White Lake, MI, with a setup like you describe, internal strainer and no external screen. When he backed out of his slip, he'd chop up a bunch of weed and plug the strainer, then overheat. Happened every time. He put an external strainer on and had no more trouble. I have an external on mine and while I do get zebras in it, it's never accumulated so many that it would not flow.
 
D

Dan_Y

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Oct 13, 2008
514
Hunter 36 Hampton
Is there any reason besides cost to use double crimp nylon insulated terminals versus the adhesive lined terminal connectors? My ratcheting adhesive lined crimped covers 22-10AWG (bought it because of Maine's article on wire termination). I'm trying to understand the need for the double crimp terminals.

For 8AWG and thicker, are terminals typically bare and then insulated with heat shrink after the crimp?
TIA
 
M

mitiempo

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Sep 28, 2008
922
Canadian Sailcraft CS27 Victoria B.C.
Dan_Yuchnovicz said:
Is there any reason besides cost to use double crimp nylon insulated terminals versus the adhesive lined terminal connectors? My ratcheting adhesive lined crimped covers 22-10AWG (bought it because of Maine's article on wire termination). I'm trying to understand the need for the double crimp terminals.

For 8AWG and thicker, are terminals typically bare and then insulated with heat shrink after the crimp?
TIA
Click to expand
I used to use the double crimp terminals but now use single crimp heat shrink terminals almost all the time. I have multiple crimpers for both types. I just bought another, Ancor's new single crimper with longer handles. It also does 8 gauge. Haven't tried it yet but it looks good. http://www.ancorproducts.com/en/703010

Ancor also just brought out a newer double crimper with the longer handles - nice to have for 10 gauge. http://www.ancorproducts.com/en/703030

Yes, 8 gauge and larger terminals (lugs) are bare and require separate heat shrink and with the exception of the 703010 linked to above (which does 8 gauge) the lugs require a different crimper - larger and heavier. This is the one I use: http://www.genuinedealz.com/heavy-duty-crimping-tool-for-battery-lugs-terminals-6-awg-250-mcm
 
dparilla

dparilla

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Jan 22, 2008
597
Oday 35 and Mariner 2+2 Alexandria, VA
FTZ makes a great crimper (the one at Genuinedealz, and on SBO as well.)
 
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