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[txg]

Maine Sail,

i've got a question about these ANL fuse holders made by the german marine company philippi:
http://www.art-images.philippi-online.de/634001102_g.jpg

Those are coming with three nuts on their bolts, and the manufacturer suggests to use these nuts as is shown here on page 78/100 of this pdf (the page itsself is marked as page 76) on the top right corner:
http://www.info.philippi-online.de/Katalog2014D.pdf

On the one hand this means that the wire connectors won't come lose when replacing the fuse, but on the other hand it means that there is a brass nut between the copper wire lug and the fuse. To me, this doesn't seem like a good idea für 100Amps+ circuits. What's your opinion?

 

[Maine Sail]

RC,

Have you found bearings harder to remove on Hunters or differences with struts? I know of two (100% freshwater - one changed 5 years ago) that were near impossible to push out (shaft in place,) while many Catalinas (fresh and salt) pop free relatively easily.

Would current leakage affect the bearing getting welded in there?

Is this a case for composite bearing bearing shells rather than brass?

Thanks,
Ken

It's really not a Catalina or Hunter thing it is good fit vs. too loose. These press fit tolerances are so tight that even a smidge either way makes a huge difference in fit. If the strut is a bit under and the bearing on the high side then it goes in tight... The other way around it is a bit sloppy.

I have had a number of Catalina's so tight the bearing literally deforms before it even moves then others far to loose that just slide right out. Same with other builders.

As for phenolic I have seen those get stuck too and when they do the shell just fractures. As for corrosion the struts on many productions boats are usually a manganese bronze 60/40 and the cutlass shell closer to yellow brass so they can get a little funked up

Even with the Stru-Pro I would say approx 1 in 15 bearings can not be pressed out and this has nothing to do with boat brand.

 

[Maine Sail]

Maine Sail,

i've got a question about these ANL fuse holders made by the german marine company philippi:
http://www.art-images.philippi-online.de/634001102_g.jpg

Those are coming with three nuts on their bolts, and the manufacturer suggests to use these nuts as is shown here on page 78/100 of this pdf (the page itsself is marked as page 76) on the top right corner:
http://www.info.philippi-online.de/Katalog2014D.pdf

On the one hand this means that the wire connectors won't come lose when replacing the fuse, but on the other hand it means that there is a brass nut between the copper wire lug and the fuse. To me, this doesn't seem like a good idea für 100Amps+ circuits. What's your opinion?

I prefer the lug to sit directly on the fuse blade. I

 

[weekendrken]

RC,

Like Marelon, have you tested the Banjo fittings for the pull test? Or other glass reinforced nylon (McMaster carries) fittings?

NPT is available w/ those, unlike from Forespar, where needed for below waterline pumps, etc. The bronze barbs in the 1/2" - 5/8" range (Groco, etc) are generally crap - notlong enough to double clamp, greatly reduced flow area, etc. Someone needs to produce approved 1/2 npt x 5/8 barbs and elbows - they are missing the 'boat."

If you haven't and would test the GR-N and GR-PP, I'll spring for the fittings!

Cheers,
Ken

 

[AaronD]

I have a trailerable sailboat, so the mast is stepped and un-stepped frequently, and all mast electrical connections have to be above deck. I just found that the deck entry point for the VHF coax is leaking. No huge surprise - upon further inspection, it appears that a previous owner just drilled straight through the cabin roof, with little attempt at sealing it...

So I'll be redoing that, and cleaning up any rotten core. Thanks to Maine for your helpful article on PL-259 connectors, etc. I'll probably use LM400 cable because of its tight turning radius. The cable routing runs along the cabin roof (inside the cabin) and then turns upward through the deck near the mast step; RG-213, RG-8X, and even RG-58U all have bend radii of 2-4.5 inches, and Times LM400 Ultraflex is just 1 in, which would avoid a cable loop in the cabin.

My question is what sort of through-deck / connector to use.

The mast cable has a PL-259 male connector, and the current arrangement has pigtail of coax routed up through the deck, with a PL-258 female connector on the end of the pigtail (maybe a 6-inch pigtail above deck). I could choose a similar routing (with a cable clam this time!) or I could use a Female-Female deck connector like the Glomex RA105 (http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|344|2028695|2029069&id=2308466).

Pros and cons I've thought of:

--The Glomex connector would require a larger hole in the deck - both top and bottom, to fit a male connector through from underneath. And right next to the mast, I'd rather not weaken the deck any more than necessary.
--The cable clam might be easier to bed securely to the deck (with butyl tape, of course. )
--The pigtail might ding up the deck a little more (although a judicious use of shrink-wrap or rigging tape should limit that).
--The cost is pretty similar (after buying coax, connectors, crimp tool, etc., $10 or $20 one way or the other isn't a deal breaker).

What else should I be thinking of?

 

[GorillaToast]

Hi MS.
Now planning the install of the Sterling 60A charger I recently bought from you.
I've been all thru the manual, and everywhere I can think of on the web to find out what size breaker is appropriate for the AC side. In your Compass Marine tutorial, you give the example of a 15 amp breaker for a 20 amp charger; what size do you recommend for the 60?

Thanks. Please keep up the great work!

 

[Maine Sail]

Hi MS.
Now planning the install of the Sterling 60A charger I recently bought from you.
I've been all thru the manual, and everywhere I can think of on the web to find out what size breaker is appropriate for the AC side. In your Compass Marine tutorial, you give the example of a 15 amp breaker for a 20 amp charger; what size do you recommend for the 60?

Thanks. Please keep up the great work!

The 60A charger should not draw more than 10A at 110V and will be closer to 8A or less, pretty efficient, so. 14/3 wire and 15A breaker..

 

[GorillaToast]

Thanks for you quick reply.
Follow up question:

Would you hardware the charger to the panel, or (as the manual directs) plug it into an AC outlet?

Oh, and do you sell the Sterling remote?

 

[Maine Sail]

Thanks for you quick reply.
Follow up question:

Would you hardware the charger to the panel, or (as the manual directs) plug it into an AC outlet?

Oh, and do you sell the Sterling remote?

Yes I can get a remote just drop me an email. I would hard wire it. Less connections to corrode..

 

[GorillaToast]

I would hard wire it. Less connections to corrode..

Good point!

 

[Ajay73]

Mainesail,
Just want to understand the two scales of the meter on the CT-33 Moisture meter. If there is a reading of 20% on a solid fiberglass hull does that mean the hull has an approximately 2% moisture content?
Another question is if you have VC17 or really any other copper based anti-fouling will the copper content in the paint effect the moisture readings?
Jim

 

[mitiempo]

This should help. http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/moisture_meter

And yes copper will have an effect on the reading.

 

[GonzoF1]

I am trying to finalize the hardware for a battery install. On our last boat, I used heavy duty Quick lugs, but they are so thick that putting two on a stud barely leaves room on the stud for the nut alone, much less if you would put a lock-washer on it. And forget a temp sensor.

What lugs do you use because I have seen some real cheap-o's out there?

In addition, I have a couple of places in this 11-battery bank where I could use a "T" lug. Is there a compelling reason not to use them?

 

[Maine Sail]

I am trying to finalize the hardware for a battery install. On our last boat, I used heavy duty Quick lugs, but they are so thick that putting two on a stud barely leaves room on the stud for the nut alone, much less if you would put a lock-washer on it. And forget a temp sensor.

What lugs do you use because I have seen some real cheap-o's out there?

In addition, I have a couple of places in this 11-battery bank where I could use a "T" lug. Is there a compelling reason not to use them?

For batteries with short studs I use "Flared Starter Lugs the ones I use are sealed ended and tinned and made by either Molex or FTZ... The SBO store has the FTZ terminals just click the text link above. I don't use T terminals as the cable angles I need rarely work out...

 

[GonzoF1]

Should there be lock washers on the nuts?
What is the correct torque for the nuts?

 

[Maine Sail]

Should there be lock washers on the nuts?
What is the correct torque for the nuts?

Yes ideally there should be but not always possible an Nyloc can often fit where a split washer can't but you need to ensure the nylon is making thread engagement.. Each battery maker specifies their own torque. Normally in inch-pounds z(in-lb) not foot pounds..

 

[GonzoF1]

One follow-up: Are these 1/4" studs on the East Penn GC2's (NAPA)? It sure seems like the 5/16" (or what I think are 5/16") lugs from Quick are a little lose.

**And BTW... I searched all over the battery for the torque specs and didn't find them. I was about to give up, but when I went to pull one of the nuts out of the bag they provided hanging on one of the studs... There it was... printed right on the little bag!**

 

[mitiempo]

I have not seen a flooded GC battery that doesn't have 5/16" studs.

 

[nameless]

McMaster Carr has a wide selection of industrial items. This link takes (or should) you to the nylon lock nut section, specifically the THIN lock-nuts. This might be a good solution to the lack of threads for standard size (thickness) lock-nuts. http://www.mcmaster.com/#self-locking-hex-nuts/=11d920h Stainless is available in two grades. Hope this helps.

 

[GorillaToast]

I have not seen a flooded GC battery that doesn't have 5/16" studs.

I've got one at home that has one 1/4" and one 5/16"