Got Questions? Ask Them Here.

Johann · Jan 13, 2015

Raymarine Wheel pilot/S2 computer

I am upgrading my autopilot from the Raymarine wheelpilot to a below deck drive (Octopus RS is the plan). I have the computer installed already and was wondering if there would be a problem driving the wheelpilot from the S2G while I wait on the Octopus drive...

Dan_Y · Jan 13, 2015

mc-612 ground(s) location?

Was reading archives on proper placement of bat sense on external reg and your new article on this topic nicely explains why the reg ground needs to be at the battery where the sense wire is.

My boat has an older MC- 612, which has two grounds, an independent gnd on pin #3 and also on pin #4 in the harness. Manual states to hook both grounds to negative post on alternator, which they are. Also noted the installer connected the alt temperature sensor to the stator terminal since it was unused (no electronic tach).

Question: should both grounds be run to the battery where the sense is? What the heck is an independent ground...a back up? It doesn't semi to be on the MC-614. Thank you in advance.
Dan

Dan_Y · Jan 16, 2015

Great Thanks - sol it sounds that without a isolated negative sense, leaving it grounded at the alt is the best I can do.

Keiffer · Jan 19, 2015

My current battery set up is one 12 volt group 24 starting battery, and one 12 volt group 24 house battery wired to a 1/2/both battery switch. Standard set up from the factory.

I am adding an additional battery to the house side and have read many of the discussions regarding 6v in series vs simply adding an additional 12v wired in parallel.

My questions is if going the 6 volt route, other than wiring the two 6 volt batteries in series does all other wiring remain the same?

DCWebME · Jan 19, 2015

Assessing devices in supply side of electric

Mainesail,

I have been working for some time to upgrade the wiring on our boat. She came to us with a three batt 4d house bank and a start batt (all 12 v). Additionally some older solar panels. Wired in is a Trace C30A+ solar charge controller, a West Marine battery combiner II , an alternator and an older Guest 50 amp charger. The only gauges are in the instrument cluster (volt and amp).

I have thus far cleaned up post production add-ons and am now working toward changing fused system to breakers. In that phase, (or first) I would like to add a SOC guage. First however, I am planning to fuse the batts to ABYC and improve cable/load And am tracing all wiring.

I remain a bit puzzled by the interaction of the supply side components.
Perhaps this is too broad a question: how do all these components interact?
What I should ask is: How do I determine each component is functioning properly interacting with the others?

Second:
I have read you recalibrate SOC weekly on mooring.
Does the work of the solar panels, charger, etc influence the Balmar SOC and if so, how?

BTW- have used the butyl tape quite a lot and learned a lot about how to use it effectively. That is another story!

thank you in advance

Keiffer · Jan 19, 2015

Maine Sail,

Thanks for the response, I thought that to be the case but when I think about batteries for a prolonged length of time I get a headache.

On another note, I recently installed the Balmar Battery Monitor after reading your very thorough review, and I can say it may be the easiest thing that I have ever installed on my boat and it started doing it's thing immediately.

txg · Jan 21, 2015

Maine Sail, thanks for all your interesting posts, this really helps. I've got one question:

I want to replace our battery system with new AGM's and while doing this i would like to add main fuses (currently there are none). I decided to use the Blue Sea MRBF Fuse Blocks as they are the easiest way to install battery bank fusing.

Now here's the problem: the MRBF Fuse Blocks have a 3/8" hole which equals to M10 (I'm in Europe, so my batteries are also metric). The AGM's i've decided to buy have a M8 threaded hole for the main bank (2x107Ah) and a M6 threaded hole (1x56Ah) for the reserve bank.

Now my question is:
a. Do you know a source for MRBF fuse blocks with smaller holes (or without any hole so i can drill it myself in the correct diameter)

b. Would you recommend using the M10 MRBF blocks with M8 or even M6 Screws? Currently i think this can't be a good idea.

thanks for your help!

rbjenterprises · Jan 24, 2015

I have acquired three helicopter batteries, Concord RG380E44, 24volt batteries.

http://www.concordebattery.com/flyer.php?id=2

All came out of helicopters at the end of their one year service life. They are listed as turbine starter batteries. Does anybody know if they could be used as deep cycle batteries and is a 24 volt system worth messing with, or should I just sell them as scrap and buy beer?

rbjenterprises · Jan 26, 2015

I found my answer. Beer money.

Dan_Y · Feb 1, 2015

Mr. M. Sail, et. al. - ;-)

The drawing below is of my starting & charging system while under way. The PO upgraded the house bank to two T-105s but located them on opposite sides of the walk through transom for weight and balance I guess versus placing both T-105s next to the reserve/start battery for shortest battery cable length. Note there is no battery fusing (yet). The ANL 300 seems a bit oversized, (125% x 80 = 100 A).

Two electrical questions on my “undocumented” setup.

1. Is there any advantage to this other than weight balance to splitting the T-105s like this? MS and Calder never show splitting a bank like this that I have seen. Both compartments can easily hold all three batteries – but that is 180lbs about 3 – 4 ft off centerline.

2. The thick battery cable lines in the drawing are “CS Wire & Cable #4 SGT, 80degC, 50V SAE J1127 & J378” and are of concern to me. I can’t figure out if it’s Type 2 or 3, tinned coper or plain copper stranding. I can’t find CS Wire & Cable on the ‘net except for some hookup wire on eBay.
Anyone have the SAE J1127 Low Voltage Battery Cable (50 v or less) and J378 Marine Propulsion standards to tell the characteristics of this cable? Are they equivalent to UL 1426 Boat Cable (i.e. Type 3), or if it’s close to BC5W2. I know the SAE #4 has 10% less copper than AWG (per Calder’s book) and apparently the “SGT” is a temperature rating (80 C) called out in SAE J378 – but I could be wrong.
Thanks
Dan

Rodd · Feb 2, 2015

Deck Drain hose frozen !

Storing in water this winter(first mistake!!).- Have an accumulation of ice and slush on deck as aft most drain is frozen about a foot below the deck level and water is not running off the deck. Is there anything I can poor down the hose to break up the ice that is blocking the drain, or would you recommend a hair dryer or heat gun near the hose? This hose drains to a thru hull that is about 2 inches above the water line and has no seacock to shut. I am concerned and would like to free up this drain.

Thanks for any ideas.

Rodd

GorillaToast · Feb 2, 2015

MaineSail,

I am installing a new BSS ac/do distribution panel, doing all the non-load panel wiring at my work bench before taking it to the boat to begin the process of connecting the loads. In testing it, I came across a couple of questions...

1). If I wire the 12v pos from the AC label back lights to the pos distribution buss, (as per the wiring diagram and label on the wire) the back lights come on as soon as the house bank battery is switched on. If I terminate the pos wire to the DC main breaker, then the AC backlights are activated at the American time a s the DC ones - when the DC main breaker is switched.

Which is correct?

2.). This panel has a single DC voltmeter and a 3 position toggle switch to select which of 3 banks it displays. I have a house bank and a start battery and the following battery switches:

The question is:

Toggle switch position 1 shows house bank volts, position 2 shows start bank volts, is it possible for position 3 to show the combined "emergency" voltage when all three battery switches are "ON"?

Thanks!

mitiempo · Feb 2, 2015

The back light wiring could be done either way - your choice.

The 3rd voltmeter position cannot be used for a combination voltage without joining the banks in the process, so no you cannot.

GorillaToast · Feb 2, 2015

Thanks Guys!

I tied the backlights to the main cabin lights breaker. Works great! Sometimes late at night logic takes a siesta...

Just one more thing,

Should the AC voltmeter be on whenever there is AC present, even tho the AC main is off?

mitiempo · Feb 3, 2015

GorillaToast said:
Should the AC voltmeter be on whenever there is AC present, even tho the AC main is off?

No, only when the AC main is on.

Rodd · Feb 3, 2015

using heat tape?

wondering if using heat tape (3 foot @20watt or 6 foot @42watt) would work --and be somewhat safe when wrapped around 1 1/2 inch wire reinforced hose that leads from the deck drain to the thru hull.

Rodd said:
Storing in water this winter(first mistake!!).- Have an accumulation of ice and slush on deck as aft most drain is frozen about a foot below the deck level and water is not running off the deck. Is there anything I can poor down the hose to break up the ice that is blocking the drain, or would you recommend a hair dryer or heat gun near the hose? This hose drains to a thru hull that is about 2 inches above the water line and has no seacock to shut. I am concerned and would like to free up this drain.

Thanks for any ideas.

Rodd

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