I have a 2003 386. I put a new zinc on the shaft in April. I just checked and it is gone. I'm guessing it fell off. I have a fish zinc on a cable over the side clipped to my mast stay. Will that give me the temporary protection I need until I get the shaft zinc replaced? I figured the mast stay is grounded, the engine and shaft are grounded to the same place.
Zincs
- Thread starter Bill OHanley
- Start date
There is ample evidence to suggest an anode, unless in close proximity to the protected metal ( within a few feet) will offer little or no protection. Further, having an anode outside that radius can potentially (no pun intended) exacerbate the erosion of metals because it sets up what is essentially a battery causing a difference in potential between the anode and the metal of concern, I.e., the shaft and prop.
Additionally, Hunters with which I am familiar are deck stepped masts meaning there are multiple 'connections' between the mast and shaft/prop, all of which create slight resistive points and can therefore have different potentials. Remember Ohm's Law.
Stated differently, an anode attached to a stay might offer some minimal protection but likely not and could do more damage than good. Better to connect your anode to the engine, even better to the shaft.
Your profile doesn't denote which Newport you are in but if it's the RI one, your season is ending soon enough such that another month or so isn't going to matter unless you have some serious galvanic issues.
Additionally, Hunters with which I am familiar are deck stepped masts meaning there are multiple 'connections' between the mast and shaft/prop, all of which create slight resistive points and can therefore have different potentials. Remember Ohm's Law.
Stated differently, an anode attached to a stay might offer some minimal protection but likely not and could do more damage than good. Better to connect your anode to the engine, even better to the shaft.
Your profile doesn't denote which Newport you are in but if it's the RI one, your season is ending soon enough such that another month or so isn't going to matter unless you have some serious galvanic issues.
If you've got a really good memory, wire the fish directly to the shaft with a good electrical connection until you can replace the zinc(s). Install two zincs.
On second thought, maybe wait until the boat is put away for the winter before you connect the wire directly to the shaft. Could get embarrassing if you engage the shaft with the wire still attached.
Also, when installing your zincs, finish up with a C clamp on them (90 deg to the faces) and tighten the bejabbers out of it to ensure you pick up another half turn on the machine screws.
Which he very well might, considering his anode lasted less than 3 months.
Why mess around, get a diver and have new zincs installed! Not that expensive and much less than a new prop.
Far more likely, given the short interval, it disappeared because of mechanical reasons.
Yeah, but if it was rapid depletion, he's risking a lot by going without. What's it going to cost him to have a diver come out and install a replacement? $100? That's cheap insurance.
On behalf of boat owners who don't trust others to work on our boats, especially at ridiculous prices, I'd prefer Ralph's suggestion which I have done while wintering in the water or away for even short periods.
Attaching an anode directly to the shaft can easily be made 'idiot-proof' simply by hanging the keys at the connection point. Being typically close to the intake thruhull is a built in reminder to shut it while away.
A good, solid shaft connection with an unbroken wire to the overboard anode minimizes potential differences, offers an easy way to monitor galvanic erosion of the anode, saves money and assures the boat owner it's done properly
Attaching an anode directly to the shaft can easily be made 'idiot-proof' simply by hanging the keys at the connection point. Being typically close to the intake thruhull is a built in reminder to shut it while away.
A good, solid shaft connection with an unbroken wire to the overboard anode minimizes potential differences, offers an easy way to monitor galvanic erosion of the anode, saves money and assures the boat owner it's done properly
Except that isn't "doing it properly." That's half-assing it. Installing an anode on the shaft is doing it properly.
That may be. But you also made a snide remark about paying a diver to do what should be done, which is installing an anode on the shaft. So don't give us the, "I'm innocent" routine.
Uh, I don't see that. Where was that?That may be. But you also made a snide remark about paying a diver to do what should be done, which is installing an anode on the shaft. So don't give us the, "I'm innocent" routine.
Well gee, thanks for at least not being snide with ME.
After re-reading every post in the thread twice, I honestly felt that you were addressing the wrong poster. The post that I thought you were referring to has since been edited. Sorry if I offended you by asking for specifics.
To the original poster: I agree with everyone that is telling you to have the zinc replaced. It is CHEAP insurance. My diver doesn't even charge me labor to replace a zinc while he's cleaning the boat, if I buy the zinc from him (which is at a price very favorable to me compared to many local vendors). It's a win/win.
I had mine disappear from a new boat's bad wiring (stray current in marina). My drop zinc would not reach my shaft coupling, but I attached a cheap pair of "jumper cables" extended thru the "heads" port light, so if rain came the shower sump took over.
Clamp the drop zinc electrically to your shaft.
Then called the Diver!
Meanwhile the culprit boat, was found and corrected.
Jim...
Clamp the drop zinc electrically to your shaft.
Then called the Diver!
Meanwhile the culprit boat, was found and corrected.
Jim...