I have a small exhaust leak where the exhaust elbow attaches to the engine block. The piece there looks like a thermostat housing. I have replaced the gasket, and have had a mechanic look at it. It still will leak slightly. the mechanic said just tighten the bolts before I go out each time. He said the weight of the exhaust elbow was making it loosen up the bolts at the engine. The pipe that is there now is galvanized and very heavy. Should I replace the entire elbow and housing? Please advise. Also how much can I expect to pay for the parts. Also, should I always shut down the engine using the "t" shaped kill knob, or can I use the key to stop the engine? I also need a price on an alternator for the YSE 12 1975 model. thanks Barry
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When reassembling my exhaust system...
I coated each metal mating part and both sides of each new gasket (exhaust manifold, thermostat housing, and thermostat cover in my engine...), and all bolts and bolt holes, with a thin coat of black gasket sealant in sequence before bolting each part on. I had also applied same to the threads of my new exhaust elbow before screwing it into the exhaust manifold. I let everything set 24-hours, torqued up each bolt a bit to full tightness (the gasketing material remains flexible)the next day and idled engine up to operating temperature in order to "heat-set" everything. Waited another 24-hours to begin using engine at high RPM under load. Absolutely no exhaust leaks anywhere.
I coated each metal mating part and both sides of each new gasket (exhaust manifold, thermostat housing, and thermostat cover in my engine...), and all bolts and bolt holes, with a thin coat of black gasket sealant in sequence before bolting each part on. I had also applied same to the threads of my new exhaust elbow before screwing it into the exhaust manifold. I let everything set 24-hours, torqued up each bolt a bit to full tightness (the gasketing material remains flexible)the next day and idled engine up to operating temperature in order to "heat-set" everything. Waited another 24-hours to begin using engine at high RPM under load. Absolutely no exhaust leaks anywhere.
Never-Seize
I use a nickle base "Never-seize" high temp. compound on everything. Use it on both sides of the gaskets, on the bolt threads and on the threads of the 1.5" exaust pipe. I have a YSE 12 and I use it on all gaskets and bolts 7years ago and no problems and if you ever want to take something back apart, it will unscrew or the gasket will come off easily. Good luck with your project.
I use a nickle base "Never-seize" high temp. compound on everything. Use it on both sides of the gaskets, on the bolt threads and on the threads of the 1.5" exaust pipe. I have a YSE 12 and I use it on all gaskets and bolts 7years ago and no problems and if you ever want to take something back apart, it will unscrew or the gasket will come off easily. Good luck with your project.
Your YSE12 should not leak where the exhaust elbow bolts to the head, nor should it come loose. Over time, an exhaust leak can erode metal from the head surface or the elbow surface. Installing a new gasket may slow the leak in this instance but the groove will allow more leakage and more erosion. You should arm yourself with a new gasket, one M8x70 and two M8x35 bolts, of good quality, three M8 lock washers, some Never-Sieze and a torque wrench. Remove the exhaust elbow and thoroughly clean the surfaces that mate. If there are any noticable grooves, they must be removed, either by taking down the entire surface or building that surface up and machining it flat. Make sure the female threads in the head are in good shape. This may require the installation of a Helicoil insert. Now its time to put it all back together. Apply Never-sieze to the bolt threads but not to the gasket. Anything on the gasket face will be burned away resulting in apparent loosening. Install the three new bolts and tighten them slowly, going round and round so that they share the load. End up with 20 ft-lb of torque. You should now be ready for long term motoring without the loosening of these bolts.
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I didn't respond to all of your questions. I have never seen a Y series engine that stopped with the turn of the key. It is something that could be added so, if your engine stops promptly when the key is turned, its OK. If it takes some time to stop, you could be turning off an electric fuel pump and this would not be recommended. The T shaped kill knob is ptobably the handle on the stop cable that shuts off the fuel at the HP pump. This is the usual way to stop this type of engine. A new alternator is available but the $463.61 price tag indicates that you should try for a rebuild first.
I didn't respond to all of your questions. I have never seen a Y series engine that stopped with the turn of the key. It is something that could be added so, if your engine stops promptly when the key is turned, its OK. If it takes some time to stop, you could be turning off an electric fuel pump and this would not be recommended. The T shaped kill knob is ptobably the handle on the stop cable that shuts off the fuel at the HP pump. This is the usual way to stop this type of engine. A new alternator is available but the $463.61 price tag indicates that you should try for a rebuild first.
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