We have a 31 ft Bavaria that is 18 months old, and we have noticed a lot of yellowing in the fibreglass. Has anyone had this happen? Does it mean that there is something wrong with the mix? We care meticulously for our boat and are disappointed that this is happening. Cutting and polishing seems to help, but it's in the checkerplate as well so impossible to get off. Anyone have any ideas to get rid of it. Thanks...Bing
Yellowing fibreglass
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I have been told that the gelcoat will yellow from wax.
This is why a product like Island Girl is a preferred product for a new boat.
This is why a product like Island Girl is a preferred product for a new boat.
Thanks for that, Steve. We haven't waxed the boat, just used polish. And there's no way to polish the checkerplate. I don't know if we can get Island Girl in Australia.
3M Makes A Non-Skid Cleaner...
...that may clean the checkerplate. There is also a product called Woody Wax which will seal the non-skid.
Island Girl probably does ship to AU. I used Island Girl's non-skid sealer and am very satisfied with it. Having said that, they have been sitting on a hundred dollar order of mine for six months with repeated promises to ship, so I'd be careful.
...that may clean the checkerplate. There is also a product called Woody Wax which will seal the non-skid.
Island Girl probably does ship to AU. I used Island Girl's non-skid sealer and am very satisfied with it. Having said that, they have been sitting on a hundred dollar order of mine for six months with repeated promises to ship, so I'd be careful.
Yes, that's what I meant when I said checkerplate. The non-skid surface. Unfortunately, I can't contact Bavaria direct. We only get referred to our local dealer who is absolutely useless and no help at all. I'll have a look for the Island Girl product. Thanks all.
My first thought was also, wax. Is the polish you use one of those combo concoctions or strictly polish?
Yellowing of gelcoat is a sure sign that either your wax has oxidized; or, that you didnt apply a 'good' wax; or, tannins or rust staining has now deeply occurred in the gel.
If tannins/iron, wash the affected area with oxalic acid (wood bleach) then apply wax.
If the 'old' wax has oxidized, then use a caustic (such as TSP -trisodiumphosphate) to extract/strip the old dead wax from the 'pores' ... then rewax.
Collinite 'Fleet Wax' is probably the longest lasting
When waxing dont 'smear-on then smear-off'. Instead 'push' the wax INTO the gel using a bare wet hand. In 2 ft. by 2ft 'squares', apply a little water to a clean palm and a bit of wax. Keep pushing until the gel brilliantly shines, using a few drops of water as necessary. THEN, smear on a small amount of wax and use a knobby foam pad mounted on a variable speed autobodyshop polisher to 'buff'.
For relatively new gelcoat yoiu might want to consider to firstly lightly 'buff-out' using 3M Finese-it™ followed by 3M Perfect-it™ (using a knobby foam pad and autobodyshop polisher).... followed by waxing.
Dont apply 'wax substitutes' .... .
If tannins/iron, wash the affected area with oxalic acid (wood bleach) then apply wax.
If the 'old' wax has oxidized, then use a caustic (such as TSP -trisodiumphosphate) to extract/strip the old dead wax from the 'pores' ... then rewax.
Collinite 'Fleet Wax' is probably the longest lasting
When waxing dont 'smear-on then smear-off'. Instead 'push' the wax INTO the gel using a bare wet hand. In 2 ft. by 2ft 'squares', apply a little water to a clean palm and a bit of wax. Keep pushing until the gel brilliantly shines, using a few drops of water as necessary. THEN, smear on a small amount of wax and use a knobby foam pad mounted on a variable speed autobodyshop polisher to 'buff'.
For relatively new gelcoat yoiu might want to consider to firstly lightly 'buff-out' using 3M Finese-it™ followed by 3M Perfect-it™ (using a knobby foam pad and autobodyshop polisher).... followed by waxing.
Dont apply 'wax substitutes' .... .
Absolutely correct. Avoid "combination cleaners & waxers" because all they do is push around the dirt and trap it.
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