I have just (30 days ago) purchased a Hunter 30 with a Yanmar 2QM15 Diesel engine. I use the engine to get from dock to deep water and return. Going out no problem, returning usually 3 to 4 hours later the temperature sensor warning sounds immediately Fuel and stays on during the complete return trip. Since I am a novice to this size boat (Daysailer owner previously) what do I replace first? The sensor, the Water pump impeller, both? Also the fuel gage on this model boat is almost impossible to read. Any suggestions besides a mirror?
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Guy LeClair
Start from intake
Hi Joe, I`ve inquired about a similar problem recently in this forum and I suggest you find that thread, I got some really good pointers which helped me resolve the problem in the right sequence. In summary, start investigating from the intake through-hull, hoses, strainer, impeller, etc. My problem ended up being the intake gate valve (disintegrated gate I believe), and had I followed the advice given beforehand, I would have saved a lot of time. My boat is the H31, and the title of my inquiry was I believe, "Yanmar 2GMF13 overheating". I was told there is also a lot of info in the archives. By the way, I would never keep going with the overheating alarm on. One way to check if you are really overheating is to put your hand on a hot water hose - if you cannot leave it on for more than a second, you're probably too hot. If you really have to motor, slow down considerably and/or open up the engine compartment to allow cooling air to help. Good luck!
Hi Joe, I`ve inquired about a similar problem recently in this forum and I suggest you find that thread, I got some really good pointers which helped me resolve the problem in the right sequence. In summary, start investigating from the intake through-hull, hoses, strainer, impeller, etc. My problem ended up being the intake gate valve (disintegrated gate I believe), and had I followed the advice given beforehand, I would have saved a lot of time. My boat is the H31, and the title of my inquiry was I believe, "Yanmar 2GMF13 overheating". I was told there is also a lot of info in the archives. By the way, I would never keep going with the overheating alarm on. One way to check if you are really overheating is to put your hand on a hot water hose - if you cannot leave it on for more than a second, you're probably too hot. If you really have to motor, slow down considerably and/or open up the engine compartment to allow cooling air to help. Good luck!
Is you raw water intake open?
Joe: First thing to check, is the raw water intake open? If it is then you need to make sure that you are getting water pumped to the engine. You should also check your strainer and make sure it is clean. The next thing is the impeller. Also be sure that the belt on the water pump is not too loose. Check your hoses on the suction side of the pump (from the seacock to the pump). If someone used the wrong type of hose it can collapse under suction. I think that you will find the reason that this does not happen on your way out is the engine is cold. It takes quite a while to warm these engines up. After they are warm they hold heat for quite a long time. When you restart the engine everything is already near operating temp.
Joe: First thing to check, is the raw water intake open? If it is then you need to make sure that you are getting water pumped to the engine. You should also check your strainer and make sure it is clean. The next thing is the impeller. Also be sure that the belt on the water pump is not too loose. Check your hoses on the suction side of the pump (from the seacock to the pump). If someone used the wrong type of hose it can collapse under suction. I think that you will find the reason that this does not happen on your way out is the engine is cold. It takes quite a while to warm these engines up. After they are warm they hold heat for quite a long time. When you restart the engine everything is already near operating temp.
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Fred G
Similar situation
I have an 81' Hunter 30' with a 2QM15 Yanmar and I have a similar situation. Upon returning to the dock, I only need to motor for about 5 minutes (drop the main and head into the marina and park). Heading out I need to motor for about 25 minutes (The easterly winds run against the channel I use). When I start the motor coming back in it will usually sound the alarm and the "Water" light will come on for about 60 seconds then stop. Some times it stays on, some times it never comes on. I pull the steps and put my hand on the engine, and it dosen't feel like it is much over 100 degrees, because I can leave my hand on it indefinitley. I do not know why it does this, but I am going to have a proper temp guage installed so I can watch what is really happening. While I am at it, I am also going to install a proper oil pressure guage. I really don't like living without those two items. Sorry I don't have any helpful info, but at least you know you are not alone.
I have an 81' Hunter 30' with a 2QM15 Yanmar and I have a similar situation. Upon returning to the dock, I only need to motor for about 5 minutes (drop the main and head into the marina and park). Heading out I need to motor for about 25 minutes (The easterly winds run against the channel I use). When I start the motor coming back in it will usually sound the alarm and the "Water" light will come on for about 60 seconds then stop. Some times it stays on, some times it never comes on. I pull the steps and put my hand on the engine, and it dosen't feel like it is much over 100 degrees, because I can leave my hand on it indefinitley. I do not know why it does this, but I am going to have a proper temp guage installed so I can watch what is really happening. While I am at it, I am also going to install a proper oil pressure guage. I really don't like living without those two items. Sorry I don't have any helpful info, but at least you know you are not alone.
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Nigel
Overheating
I, too had the same thing happen only last weekend. I took the raw water filter off and found lots of seaweed and junk in there- thinking I had cured the problem I started motoring again and again the alarm came on. I then closed the sea cock and removed the hose- there to my surprise was sea grass and debris wound tight and as long as a cigar- after removing that I openned the sea cock before replacing the hose and water waa just trickling in- I gently inserted a pencil into the seacock and dug out more stuffuntil the water ran freely- hooked everything up and the engine worked like a charm for the next 6 hourd of motoring- Hope that helps
I, too had the same thing happen only last weekend. I took the raw water filter off and found lots of seaweed and junk in there- thinking I had cured the problem I started motoring again and again the alarm came on. I then closed the sea cock and removed the hose- there to my surprise was sea grass and debris wound tight and as long as a cigar- after removing that I openned the sea cock before replacing the hose and water waa just trickling in- I gently inserted a pencil into the seacock and dug out more stuffuntil the water ran freely- hooked everything up and the engine worked like a charm for the next 6 hourd of motoring- Hope that helps
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John Tesoriero
Mine is now cool
I also have a 1980 2QM15 in my HUnter 30. It used to overheat regularly mostly from eel grass on the engine intake. Here is what I did. 1. Change the thru hull. I increased the intake size to a 3/4 inch scoop facing backward. 2. Use larger hoses - 3/4 inch 3. Add a sea water strainer. the small ones are cheap and easy to install. 4. Change your thermostat every year. It is cheap and easy to replace - right on top of the engine, and they rust-up pretty quickly. 5. Change your impeller at least every other year. It's cheap and easy to do. 6. Flush your heat exchanger once and a while. You can open the stopcock under the exchanger to flush out mud and stuff. 7. If you think that the engine passages are blocked, you can use a garden hose and city water pressure to flush the engine. Just be sure to let the water exit from the last hose in the system - from the top and back of the heat exchanger - otherwise you could get water into your cylinders. Good Luck
I also have a 1980 2QM15 in my HUnter 30. It used to overheat regularly mostly from eel grass on the engine intake. Here is what I did. 1. Change the thru hull. I increased the intake size to a 3/4 inch scoop facing backward. 2. Use larger hoses - 3/4 inch 3. Add a sea water strainer. the small ones are cheap and easy to install. 4. Change your thermostat every year. It is cheap and easy to replace - right on top of the engine, and they rust-up pretty quickly. 5. Change your impeller at least every other year. It's cheap and easy to do. 6. Flush your heat exchanger once and a while. You can open the stopcock under the exchanger to flush out mud and stuff. 7. If you think that the engine passages are blocked, you can use a garden hose and city water pressure to flush the engine. Just be sure to let the water exit from the last hose in the system - from the top and back of the heat exchanger - otherwise you could get water into your cylinders. Good Luck
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John Tesoriero
Temp sensor
I read your inquiry again and remebered that I had a similar situation when I bought my boat. The temp warning light and horn would come on when you turn the engine back on after it had warmed up. I changed the temp sensor and have never had the problem again. However, read my earlier response and recommendations for long-term cooling security.
I read your inquiry again and remebered that I had a similar situation when I bought my boat. The temp warning light and horn would come on when you turn the engine back on after it had warmed up. I changed the temp sensor and have never had the problem again. However, read my earlier response and recommendations for long-term cooling security.
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