Here's an update.
It appears there are 2 culprits in this problem. The solenoid circuit starts at the connection between the battery and starter where the battery cable connects. There is a smaller gauge (12?) red wire that runs to the key switch. When the key is turned on, it connects this wire to to the start button. The white wire then runs back to the solenoid. The solenoid is case grounded so there is only 1 wire to it.
The PO seemed to have a fetish with black electrical tape and silicone caulk. Tracing the wiring, I ran into copious amounts of black tape hiding who knows what. Both the red and white wires were covered in tape.
Replacing the white wire was going to be more challenging than replacing the red wire, so I opted to replace the red wire first. Rather than replicating the long run from starter to key switch, the run was shortened by connecting it to the positive bus bar with 10 ga wire. This shortened the run from about 12 feet to 18 inches and provided an opportunity to add a 30 amp fuse. And Success!
Started the engine a half dozen times, each time it roared to life, no clicking, hoping, and praying. On my boat, accessing the start button is difficult without removing the panel. Replacing the white wire is now on the To do list however, so long as the engine keeps starting on the first try, it will be moving down the list.
Thanks to all who offered suggestions and insight.
It appears there are 2 culprits in this problem. The solenoid circuit starts at the connection between the battery and starter where the battery cable connects. There is a smaller gauge (12?) red wire that runs to the key switch. When the key is turned on, it connects this wire to to the start button. The white wire then runs back to the solenoid. The solenoid is case grounded so there is only 1 wire to it.
The PO seemed to have a fetish with black electrical tape and silicone caulk. Tracing the wiring, I ran into copious amounts of black tape hiding who knows what. Both the red and white wires were covered in tape.
Replacing the white wire was going to be more challenging than replacing the red wire, so I opted to replace the red wire first. Rather than replicating the long run from starter to key switch, the run was shortened by connecting it to the positive bus bar with 10 ga wire. This shortened the run from about 12 feet to 18 inches and provided an opportunity to add a 30 amp fuse. And Success!
Started the engine a half dozen times, each time it roared to life, no clicking, hoping, and praying. On my boat, accessing the start button is difficult without removing the panel. Replacing the white wire is now on the To do list however, so long as the engine keeps starting on the first try, it will be moving down the list.
Thanks to all who offered suggestions and insight.
