Have a Yanmar 12ysm (old turkey) & the magnetic solenoid stopped working. Wondering if it comes apart to check the circuits. If I bang on it, it might work & then stop. If not whats the contact for parts in So Calif? Thanks
Yanmar starter question
- Thread starter patman
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I had the same issue with mine. After removing the starter, I found out the soleniod actually does 2 things. It engages the gear by tripping a lever and it provides 12v for the starter windings. I was unable to find parts or a rebuild shop. (every shop told me I had to buy a new starter at about 400.00
Since the gear was engaging (moving forward), I just installed a 12v automotive soleniod like used to be mounted on the firewall of older trucks (approx. 70's). The cost was about 15.00
Since I plan to repower soon, I just wanted to be able to make it through another season or two.
The only problem I have is occasionally the starter starts to turn before the gear is engaged. It kinda locks up, I just let off the key and try again. Usually within a few tries, it turns right over.
I don't know if this will help you, but it has worked well for me so far.
Since the gear was engaging (moving forward), I just installed a 12v automotive soleniod like used to be mounted on the firewall of older trucks (approx. 70's). The cost was about 15.00
Since I plan to repower soon, I just wanted to be able to make it through another season or two.
The only problem I have is occasionally the starter starts to turn before the gear is engaged. It kinda locks up, I just let off the key and try again. Usually within a few tries, it turns right over.
I don't know if this will help you, but it has worked well for me so far.
Check Cables First
Our boats are sitting in a toxic (over used word?) marine environment which is very hard on metals.
A couple things I'd suggest before shelling out big bucks for a new starter, if it hasn't already been done, is to
(1) check the quality of the cables from the battery + side all the way back to the battery - side (i.e., including the ground). Because the cables have to carry a lot of current a regular Volt-Ohm meter won't necessarily pick up a continuity problem. Make sure the contacts are really good and free of corrosion and the terminals are good. Generally the old cables are not tinned so they could have oxidation on them.
(2) The low amperage wires that go to the key and/or starter button could be corroded too. Follow the wires and look for connectors, take them apart and put them together again and see if that makes any difference. All it takes is a little bit of corrosion to cause a problem.
Suggestion: Using something like Oxgard (available at Home Depot) on the SINGLE bullet connectors that go to the starter switch will help prevent future corrosion. Oxgard has minute particles of aluminum in it so shouldn't be used where it can span multiple contacts. For multiple contacts there is another anti-oxidant that I use with no metallic particulates but I can't remember the name of it but it's in the boat toolbox.
Disclaimer: I'm not a starter mechanic expert but I have found that wiring is often the cause problem. Had a similar problem a couple times and once it was the ground wire connection to the engine and another time it was the connectors to the starter switch. Also, I replaced all the large cables with tinned-wire and terminals.
Our boats are sitting in a toxic (over used word?) marine environment which is very hard on metals.
A couple things I'd suggest before shelling out big bucks for a new starter, if it hasn't already been done, is to
(1) check the quality of the cables from the battery + side all the way back to the battery - side (i.e., including the ground). Because the cables have to carry a lot of current a regular Volt-Ohm meter won't necessarily pick up a continuity problem. Make sure the contacts are really good and free of corrosion and the terminals are good. Generally the old cables are not tinned so they could have oxidation on them.
(2) The low amperage wires that go to the key and/or starter button could be corroded too. Follow the wires and look for connectors, take them apart and put them together again and see if that makes any difference. All it takes is a little bit of corrosion to cause a problem.
Suggestion: Using something like Oxgard (available at Home Depot) on the SINGLE bullet connectors that go to the starter switch will help prevent future corrosion. Oxgard has minute particles of aluminum in it so shouldn't be used where it can span multiple contacts. For multiple contacts there is another anti-oxidant that I use with no metallic particulates but I can't remember the name of it but it's in the boat toolbox.
Disclaimer: I'm not a starter mechanic expert but I have found that wiring is often the cause problem. Had a similar problem a couple times and once it was the ground wire connection to the engine and another time it was the connectors to the starter switch. Also, I replaced all the large cables with tinned-wire and terminals.
Just be aware that many of the items that are being sold on ebay are NOT OEM part, but an aftermarket replacment (not Hitachi). This does not mean that they are not good quality, it is just something that you should be aware of.
You may also want to consider taking your existing unit to a quality automotive electric shop that rebuilds alternator, starters etc.
You may also want to consider taking your existing unit to a quality automotive electric shop that rebuilds alternator, starters etc.
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