Yanmar Question - my turn to be stupid
- Thread starter Jim Seamans
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Chatterbox Falls???
Het Fred, Is that Chatterbox Falls in the background of you pic? Nice anchorage. Actually FABULOUS anchorage. What time of year were you there? Liam.
Het Fred, Is that Chatterbox Falls in the background of you pic? Nice anchorage. Actually FABULOUS anchorage. What time of year were you there? Liam.
Liam, that was two years ago in August. Last
year we brought the pups and a spot at the dock was available so we didn't anchor. They need lots of walks. This year I took the boat up alone and Linda flew up. So we skipped Princess Louisa. But I got some quality tan-line removal time, in spite of the rotten weather.
year we brought the pups and a spot at the dock was available so we didn't anchor. They need lots of walks. This year I took the boat up alone and Linda flew up. So we skipped Princess Louisa. But I got some quality tan-line removal time, in spite of the rotten weather.
Never Ever hook up city water Hose
City water Pressure may overload the ability of the waterlift muffler to expell the water. The water will build up in the muffler and then back up into the cylinders. Hydro lock, thrown Rod. A five gal bucket with an overflow hole cut a few inched down from the top will prevent unwanted hydrolock. Run the Engine. Run the hose nozzle, filling the bucket, at a rate which causes some of the water to overflow into the bilge. The bilge pump will pump it out. Have the intake water hose draw water from the bucket. Let the engine get hot, this insures that the thermostat will open, important for boats without heat exchangers. After 15 min or so switch the hose to an open full antifreeze bottle. Use one or two bottles. Cut engine before all antifreeze is expelled.
City water Pressure may overload the ability of the waterlift muffler to expell the water. The water will build up in the muffler and then back up into the cylinders. Hydro lock, thrown Rod. A five gal bucket with an overflow hole cut a few inched down from the top will prevent unwanted hydrolock. Run the Engine. Run the hose nozzle, filling the bucket, at a rate which causes some of the water to overflow into the bilge. The bilge pump will pump it out. Have the intake water hose draw water from the bucket. Let the engine get hot, this insures that the thermostat will open, important for boats without heat exchangers. After 15 min or so switch the hose to an open full antifreeze bottle. Use one or two bottles. Cut engine before all antifreeze is expelled.
Lordy,
Dan, that's a very strong statement. Do you know how your engine is built? Or the physics or water flow? What you say, can't happen if the city hose is turned on after the engine is started and off before the engine is shut down.
Dan, that's a very strong statement. Do you know how your engine is built? Or the physics or water flow? What you say, can't happen if the city hose is turned on after the engine is started and off before the engine is shut down.
I am not sure what kind of Yanmar you have
But mine, the HJ3E has two distinctly different water cooling systems. Does yours? System #1 is raw water supplied from the seacock and seastrainer that is taken in through the through hull fitting and goes through the seastainer and into the heat exchanger and back out the discharge port through the aqualift. System # 2 is a closed loop system that circulates from the raw water heat exchanger (that removes the heat from the engine and takes it back out to the surrounding water that the boat is floating on) around and through the block and the water heater through a heat exchanger in the hot water tank under the sink in the galley and back to the heat exchanger for the raw water system and that fluid never leaves the system. It is closed just like the cooling system in your car if you have a car. It should always be filled with an antifreeze coolant and flushed with regularity just like the system in your car (again if you have a car). Each system in my boat has to be dealt with as a separate system, the closed loop and the heat exchanger system. Since I leave mine in the water all year and sail all year then I don't go through the process you are asking about. I have a drain petcock at the bottom of the engine to drain the closed loop and it refills through a radiator cap in the top of the raw water system heat exchanger (not to be confused with the hot water tank). My heat exchanger can have the inlet hose disconnected as others here have mentioned and then drained and refilled with the EGMBE coolant. Do I understand that you do not have two different systems in your engine? Which system are you asking about if you do have more than one?
But mine, the HJ3E has two distinctly different water cooling systems. Does yours? System #1 is raw water supplied from the seacock and seastrainer that is taken in through the through hull fitting and goes through the seastainer and into the heat exchanger and back out the discharge port through the aqualift. System # 2 is a closed loop system that circulates from the raw water heat exchanger (that removes the heat from the engine and takes it back out to the surrounding water that the boat is floating on) around and through the block and the water heater through a heat exchanger in the hot water tank under the sink in the galley and back to the heat exchanger for the raw water system and that fluid never leaves the system. It is closed just like the cooling system in your car if you have a car. It should always be filled with an antifreeze coolant and flushed with regularity just like the system in your car (again if you have a car). Each system in my boat has to be dealt with as a separate system, the closed loop and the heat exchanger system. Since I leave mine in the water all year and sail all year then I don't go through the process you are asking about. I have a drain petcock at the bottom of the engine to drain the closed loop and it refills through a radiator cap in the top of the raw water system heat exchanger (not to be confused with the hot water tank). My heat exchanger can have the inlet hose disconnected as others here have mentioned and then drained and refilled with the EGMBE coolant. Do I understand that you do not have two different systems in your engine? Which system are you asking about if you do have more than one?
Filling the Yanmar with fresh water
Don't ask how I know this but if you connect a water hose to the raw water intake hose you WILL fillthe engine with tap water. It will go through the engine, fill the water lift muffler, then go into the exhaust manifold where it will find the open exhaust valve and enter the engine. I have a connection point in the pump inlet hose between the strainer and raw water pump which enables me to connect a 2 foot long piece of garden type hose which sits in a bucket at or below the level of the pump. The bucket must be below the point where water could siphon through the engine. In my case the bucket sits on the floor of the head next to tho engine. The connector piece is an acetal plastic "T" style that comes in a Prestone radiator flush kit for cars. Double hose barb and a male garden hose thread with a plastic cap. I run a fresh water hose onto the bucket and run the engine for a good while to warm it up well too change the oil and filter, as well as giving the engine a good long, hot fresh water flush. I don't know how the engine likes it but I know I feel better. As to the -50 antifreeze; I do fine with it here in Jersey so I'm certain you'll have no trouble in Maryland.
Don't ask how I know this but if you connect a water hose to the raw water intake hose you WILL fillthe engine with tap water. It will go through the engine, fill the water lift muffler, then go into the exhaust manifold where it will find the open exhaust valve and enter the engine. I have a connection point in the pump inlet hose between the strainer and raw water pump which enables me to connect a 2 foot long piece of garden type hose which sits in a bucket at or below the level of the pump. The bucket must be below the point where water could siphon through the engine. In my case the bucket sits on the floor of the head next to tho engine. The connector piece is an acetal plastic "T" style that comes in a Prestone radiator flush kit for cars. Double hose barb and a male garden hose thread with a plastic cap. I run a fresh water hose onto the bucket and run the engine for a good while to warm it up well too change the oil and filter, as well as giving the engine a good long, hot fresh water flush. I don't know how the engine likes it but I know I feel better. As to the -50 antifreeze; I do fine with it here in Jersey so I'm certain you'll have no trouble in Maryland.
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