Yanmar Question - my turn to be stupid

[Jim Seamans]

On Dec 1, we pull for the winter. After getting on the hard hard earth, I would like to hook up a hose to the raw water intake and just let the water run (engine off). This is to flush the engine out, then run the anti-freeze through. For some reason I question this in my mind. I know the water passes through and out the exhaust. But I'm afraid it might backup in the cylinders.Any thoughts?JimS/V Java

 

[Rick D]

Muffler

I think that, with the engine off, you could fill the muffler as you might with the engine cranking too long and back it up through the mixer into the combustion chamber. But, since I don't winterize, I leave it to smarter people. Rick D.

 

[Tim]

Don't do it that way

Jim,You don't mention what type of engine you have, but I'm guessing its a fresh-water cooled version of something (raw water only runs through a heat exchanger, actual cooling of the engine is a closed-loop system where the raw water cools the coolant). This particular point doesn't matter too much in regard to your question, however.The reason you DON'T want to do as you asked is this:You can possibly flood the cylinders because there wouldn't be any exhaust flow to blow the water out of the water-lift muffler. As an aside, just running water into the intake probably wouldn't work anyway because the water would have a hard time getting past the water pump impeller in the first place.I would do this:Close the throughhull then run the hose into the raw water strainer and run the engine. This will flush your system and not flood the cylinders.Hope that helps!Tim

 

[seadaddler]

How about

I have always wanted to flush also but afraid of what could go wrong.I have seen flush hook up to the raw water strainer but too much $$$.How about using a 5 gallon bucket and put the raw water hose in the bucket while keeping the bucket supplied with fresh water hose,thisway no water pressure being forced into the engine just let raw water pump suck the needed water to flush.I have been thinking of doing it this way with the AC and Gen and Engine.Also thinking of doing with some type chemical or acid to clean out anybuild in all the above.Nick

 

[Rick D]

That's What I Do....

...about twice a year, I turn off the intake and pour a gallon of Vinegar into the strainer to de-salt the exchanger. Irregularly, I do the same with an acid mix. Rick D.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Tim's almost right

Don't do this: Close the through-hull then run the hose into the raw water strainer and run the engine. Rather do this: Close the through-hull then run the hose into a bucket. Take the hose from the through hull to the engine and put it into the bucket, too. Keep the amount of water you are adding into the bucket from the hose running fast enough to make sure the bucket stays pretty full.All you're doing is "replacing" the water usually outside your boat with the water in the bucket.The idea is to replace th atmospheric pressure on the water outside the boat with the bucket idea. You do NOT want to use the hose pressure directly connected to the hose to the engine because the pressure is too high with a direct connection. If you need too, depending on the setup on your boat, you may have to extend the hose that's from engine to the strainer to make it reach the bucket. That's simple, just get another length of hose and a connector.

 

[GuyT]

Some observations while winterizing

I winterized my Yanmar 3GMF just two weeks ago.To flush my engine, I disconnected the 5/8 intake from the sea-strainer and put it in a bucket. I was very surprized(even just at idle) how much water the engine pulled. I had a one gallon bucket and as soon as I filled it, it was empty again.After the engine was rinsed of salt water, I drained all the fresh water out. To do this I opened the drain valve on the heat exchanger and once again, I had another surprize finding.If the engine crank was in a certain position, I could air pressurize my heat exchanger(to drain the sitting water) from my intake line. I did this by simply blowing into the intake hose and hand cranking the engine until the impeller was in a position that allowed flow.So this means - NEVER run a pressurized water hoze to the intake of the engine - PERIOD!!!!There will be a position of the impeller which will allow water to flow and flood the line back to the mixing elbow and then to the engine.I have in the past connected a garden hose to the engine to let it run. I guess I was lucky that it started right away and the impeller never found that sweet spot. I am one lucky Guy!

 

[Jim Seamans]

Ok - Got the Idea

I will use the 5gal bucket to hold water. One thing I did first year, was to install a tee connection after the strainer, the kind you use on your car for flushing the cooling system. This will allow me to run a hose from the pickup line to the bucket and flush and flush and flush. Thanks All - I knew there was something wrong with my original thoughts....:OJimS/V Java

 

[gary mcrae]

yanmar winterizing

i just did this and it is much simpler than you are thinking. you mneed a 5 gal. bucket,4 gallons of rv anti freeze,i 90 degree plastic fitting,probably 1/2 inch id, and 3 feet of same size rubber. simply unhook your filter/strainer. unhook the 3/4 inch line from the engine side of the strainer filter. put the 3/4 inch fitting in this line and add the 3 foot piece of the same size hose to the other end of the 90 degree plastic fitting. put the 4 gallons of rv in the 5 gallon bucket.,with the hose in to the bottom of the bucket. you may want to duct tape the hose into the bucket. now start your yanmar. the engoine will pull the antifreeze from the bucket much easier than it does when wet and pulling water through the strainer and into the engine. let this run until most of the 4 gallons is ran through the engine and out the exhaust into another bucket or, if biodegradable, onto the ground. better to catch it in an oil change pan or something similar. watch the level of the bucket. when most is gone through, simply shut off the engine. your yanmar is full of rv antifreeze as well as the discharge line and the jacket of the engine. when ready to get into the lake, do this again with clean water. this keeps the rv antifreeze out of the lake . you are ready to hook up your strainer and go sailing. whole process takes 10 minutes after starting. do not let antifreeze run out when filling engine. let warm up good so all water is gone and everything is full of antifreeze. bill from yacht basin showed me this as i am a first time yanmar owner, never gas again

 

[Paul Akers]

I read that it CAN Happen *cry

So, DON'T DO IT! *yks

 

[Paul Akers]

I use a funnel

I disconnect the intake from the raw water intake valve (I shut the valve first, of course). I then insert a funnel ito the raw end of the hose. I have the open jugs of antifreeze ready beside me as well as the regular water bottle(s) for flushing. It's a two-person job. As the other person starts the engine, I keep pouring the clear water until the antifreeze (pink stuff) is ready to go . I have the other person watching the outflow go overboard. As soon as it turns pink, he shuts down the engine and I stop pouring when the engine stops. Voila! she's ready for the winter. I've been doing this for 10 years with no problem. I only have to occupy the other person for the short time that the engine is running.

 

[Warren Milberg]

I would sorta doubt

that if you hooked up a fresh water hose to the raw water intake that the water would get past the impeller in the water pump if the engine were not running. On my Yanmar 2GM20F I just fill a big bucket with fresh water, put the raw water intake hose to it (other end connects to the water strainer), and hit start on the engine. I run a few gallons through and, when I'm about to run out of fresh water, just pour the -100 non-toxic antifreeze into the bucket while the engine is still running. Kill the engine when the last of the antifreeze in the bucket gets sucked up. Takes less than a half hour. I usually change the oil and filter before doing this, however.Jim: I'm hoping to sail tomorrow as the weather is expected to finally near 70. I expect that to be my last sail of the season. Had a good season, and hope you and Joan did, too. Think spring.

 

[jprieto]

Yanmar question

Jim: Warren is correct when he says to use 100 degree RV antifreeze for the engine's raw water coolant system winterization. That way, if you happen to have 50% dilution of the antifreeze in your system (owing to fresh water remaining in the system after you flush it,) you are still protected down to 50% below zero. Same thing is true of the boat's fresh potable water system. 100 degree antifreeze costs a little more, but not nearly as much as replacing frozen tubing/piping. West Marine always gives a 2.00$ discount per gallon. Plus,you will not have to use as much antifreeze to winterize either system. Bill

 

[frankr]

Use a "T off the intake hose and 2 jugs of -100

I also change the oil and filter before winterizing. I removed the intake side of the hose from the strainer, inserted a "T" connector into it added two lengths of tubing , stuck each end into a jug of -100 Antifreeze and fired up the engine. Watched the stuff change color at the exhaust port and shut it down just before the jugs got sucked empty. Then I unscrewed the strainer, cleaned it out , reinstalled it and poured what was left in the jugs down into the strainer before reconnecting the intake side of the hose. Warren I also sail out of HHN from G dock - someday I want to meet you

 

[Fred Ficarra]

Lordy! I'm really sorry for you guys!

Pray for Global Warming.Over the past few decades around here, it's gotten steadily warner in the winter. Never the less, the marinas in the past remained full. No body hauls-out. Now, that said, I've still got an extensive fresh water system for running my engine on the hard, blowing out raw water intakes (back-flushing) and flushing the watermaker.For running the engine on the hard (to keep the engine-driven refer cold for those tasty adult beverages) all I do is run a garden hose to the inlet valve (2) on the side of the hull. That provides fresh water. I close the raw water intake for the engine at the through hull, start the engine, open the fresh water line at the engine side of the same intake and turn on the refer. Except for the water running onto the ground, it's just like being afloat.Now for the water maker. Same idea. But for membrane maintenance I flush that through hull with on-board water that was made from the watermaker. You can't let shore water near the membrane because most has chlorine and will destroy it.  Of course none of this has anything to do with adding antifreeze to your cooling system. I just like to talk about my stuff!

 

[Brian M H23]

!!?!?

50% Below Zero..50 degrees? I'm not sure if it's a linear relationship either way.

 

[Phil Herring]

That is one brutal photo...

nm

 

[sailor.fred]

RV versus Automotive Type Antifreeze

It was always my understanding that RV (ie. PINK) antifreeze was not compatable with aluminum components in the engine and also does not contain rust inhibitors for the cast iron/steel parts. I follow the same procedure for winterizing the engine except use high quality automotive antifreeze and catch the excess exhaust fluid in a bucket. I use the pink RV antifreeze in potable water and sanitary systems only.

 

[Liam]

exhaust pressure

The exhaust pressure (when the engine is running) is what pushes the cooling water out of the water-lock. If the engine is not running the water will NOT be pushed out. That is why they tell you that if the engine does not start after 30 seconds of cranking STOP. If you continue the raw water pump will keep pumping and the water will rise above the loop in the water lock then over the top of the mixing elbow and back flow into the cylinders through the open exhaust valves. Water does not compress... so once you fill the cylindars with water and crank the engine, metal parts will brake.If you haven't already caused damage you are probably just plain lucky.

 

[Rich (P303)]

Warren...

I know what I am looking at... but how did it come to be? What was repaired in the spring?What kind of boat WAS it? Looks pretty big to be sitting below the sole.Rich