Hello. I am replacing my motor mounts on my Yanmar 3gmf. I'm running into a little trouble getting a jack under it. I can't seem to find a bottle jack short enough and my scissor jack is too long and runs into a stringer. Does anyone have any tips or work arounds? TIA
yanmar motor mount replacement
- Thread starter bob45
- Start date
Try lifting the motor with a block and tackle or come along. Use the boom with a strong topping lift to suspend the block and tackle or put a couple of 2x4s across the companion way.
On my Yanmar 3JH2e, it is not necessary to lift the motor very much, just support the weight. The brackets for the motor mounts attach to the block with a few bolts. Remove the bracket and the motor mount. Here's video that shows how:
On my Yanmar 3JH2e, it is not necessary to lift the motor very much, just support the weight. The brackets for the motor mounts attach to the block with a few bolts. Remove the bracket and the motor mount. Here's video that shows how:
Thanks! That looks pretty straight forward. Removing the mounting brackets off the block would make it much easier.
Simple: inflate a basketball under the oil pan. Do one mount at a time. Remove the brakets, then switch the mount.
Let it sit for 3 days, then realign the engine to the shaft.
Let it sit for 3 days, then realign the engine to the shaft.
Pillow jacks (air shim, air wedge, etc) are handy to have if you dont have a basket ball already. You can also get a puck jack, which is a hydraulic jack, but the pump is connected to a low profile puck piston via a hose. Id recommend putting a plank under the pan to help with the weight on the floor under the jack.
Seeing that the shaft is de-coupled, is it feasible to do this while the boat is in the water or does it need to be out?
It can be done with the boat in the water. Make sure the bilge pump works as there will be some water entering. Suspend or prop up the shaft so it is in the same position in the stuffing box.
When unbolting the mounting bracket from the engine block, the engine does not have to be lifted very high, just high enough to take the weight off the engine mount. The other option is to lift the engine above the mount, I wouldn't go that route because it might cause issues with other things like fuel lines and exhaust hoses.
When unbolting the mounting bracket from the engine block, the engine does not have to be lifted very high, just high enough to take the weight off the engine mount. The other option is to lift the engine above the mount, I wouldn't go that route because it might cause issues with other things like fuel lines and exhaust hoses.
Do-able but be careful where you put that basketball: the oil pan on the 3GM30 is made of aluminum and kind of flimsy. You do not want to put too much pressure on it.
I used a block and tackle with beams across the companionway. Easypeasy.
Just did my mounts on a 310 took only 5 hours. I did remove the exhaust system to give better clearance, used 4/4 block and tackle.