All, I recently past the 50 hour mark on my Yanmar 3JH3E and had a few questions about scheduled maintenance that I hope someone can answer: 1. I changed the crankcase and marine gear oil myself, but can not do the recommended inspections and/or adjustments (valve clearance, shaft alignment, etc.) myself. I was curious as to who you have do yours. Dealer? Local mechanic? If you live in the Annapolis area can you recommend anyone? 2. In the maintenance section of my manual it says that I should change the clutch lube oil and clean the clutch filter. I'm assuming that "clutch" and "marine gear" are the same thing. If so, I've changed the clutch lube oil, but have no idea where the clutch filter is. The manual doesn't point it out and I didn't see one anywhere. Does the thing really exist or is this a misprint in the manual? 3. What's the deal with the marine gear dipstick? Mine only has 1 level mark on it at the very bottom. The diagram in the engine manual is so poor that I can't tell if there is supposed to more than 1. All dipsticks that I have ever seen have a low and high mark on them. Is there supposed to be more than 1 level mark on the thing? If so where is the high level mark supposed to be? 4. After changing the oil, I now have excessive vibrations at 2500 RPM which I'm pretty sure I didn't have before. I believe it's coming from the marine gear or shaft, because out of gear at 2500 the engine is remarkably smooth. I did everything according to the manual, but am wondering if I could have done something wrong that may have introduced this vibration. Any ideas? I'm wondering if it is from too much or too little oil in the marine gear, because I'm reading the dipstick wrong. 5. Anyone recommend a specific oil for this engine? Thanks in advance, Marty S/V Diversion
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A
Andy Falls
R
Rex Noel
Dipstick
On the clutch/transmission dipstick... there is one cause for too little oil to watch out for. When you check the level, remove the dipstick and wipe it off. Then insert it, but do not screw it into the fitting. Just let it rest on top of the opening. Then remove and read the level. It should be right at the single mark. If you screw the dipstick into the fitting, you will have too little oil in the transmission.
On the clutch/transmission dipstick... there is one cause for too little oil to watch out for. When you check the level, remove the dipstick and wipe it off. Then insert it, but do not screw it into the fitting. Just let it rest on top of the opening. Then remove and read the level. It should be right at the single mark. If you screw the dipstick into the fitting, you will have too little oil in the transmission.
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Bob Cree
Made a dipstick "level checker"
Regarding the transmission dip stick, I always had trouble seeing the oil level on the metal dipstick. I finally took a dowel stick the size of the dip stick and used a hole saw to make a top for it, painted it flat black, and marked it for the same oil level as the original. Now when I want to check the oil level, I remove the regular dip stick and insert my home-made one as the oil level is clearly visible. When finished, simply return the original dip stick. Note the wooden dip stick is used ONLY for checking the oil level. Bob
Regarding the transmission dip stick, I always had trouble seeing the oil level on the metal dipstick. I finally took a dowel stick the size of the dip stick and used a hole saw to make a top for it, painted it flat black, and marked it for the same oil level as the original. Now when I want to check the oil level, I remove the regular dip stick and insert my home-made one as the oil level is clearly visible. When finished, simply return the original dip stick. Note the wooden dip stick is used ONLY for checking the oil level. Bob
E
Eric Lorgus
Other ways to check transmission oil level
Remove the dipstick and rest the tip on a paper towel -- you will immediately see where the oil level is from the stain left on the towel.
Remove the dipstick and rest the tip on a paper towel -- you will immediately see where the oil level is from the stain left on the towel.
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Michael Duff
Oil
Hi Marty! In regard to the type and weight of oil for your engine and tranny....be careful...your engine should use a straight SAE 20 Heavy Duty oil suited for diesel engines...or on those cold Annapolis winter months....SAE 30 HD. Now for the tranny, the model of the gear will tell...the model is n a plate at the gear box..some use automatic transmission fluid and others will use the same SAE 20 or 30 as your engine. I believe the owners manual gives the specs, however I spent the 89.50 for the shop manual and it's worth it. Care should be taken never to overfill either the engine or gear box...I believe your vibes may be from too much oil in your gear box...just a hunch. Cheers Mike D Orion 40.5 HUnter
Hi Marty! In regard to the type and weight of oil for your engine and tranny....be careful...your engine should use a straight SAE 20 Heavy Duty oil suited for diesel engines...or on those cold Annapolis winter months....SAE 30 HD. Now for the tranny, the model of the gear will tell...the model is n a plate at the gear box..some use automatic transmission fluid and others will use the same SAE 20 or 30 as your engine. I believe the owners manual gives the specs, however I spent the 89.50 for the shop manual and it's worth it. Care should be taken never to overfill either the engine or gear box...I believe your vibes may be from too much oil in your gear box...just a hunch. Cheers Mike D Orion 40.5 HUnter
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georgelakesiii@yahoo.com
engine oil
I can't emphasize to much to use a diesel oil such as Chevron delo 400 or Shell Rotella. I have used them in truck diesels and gotten over 1 million miles without oil related rebuilds. If you use car oil, you will find the greatly diminished lubricity when you change the oil. This will cause premature wear. Also if you have a turbo charged engine you should change the oil at least every 50hrs or once a year, which ever occurs first. The oil oxidizes and will lose its lubricating properties. Boats are always considered cold starts where 90% of wear occurs. The more you idle a diesel the better you will be served by more often oil changes. You will get more complete combustion at higher rpm's. The colder it is, the higher the rpm for complete combustion. If you don't do this, with the high fuel pressure of a diesel, you will get some past your rings, which will dilute your oil with diesel fuel. It would not hurt to have a base line with an engine oil analysis. I've had some drivers able to go 34,000 miles between oil changes, but this would be accrued in 3 months with few heat/cool down cycles unlike a boat. good health to you and your engine.
I can't emphasize to much to use a diesel oil such as Chevron delo 400 or Shell Rotella. I have used them in truck diesels and gotten over 1 million miles without oil related rebuilds. If you use car oil, you will find the greatly diminished lubricity when you change the oil. This will cause premature wear. Also if you have a turbo charged engine you should change the oil at least every 50hrs or once a year, which ever occurs first. The oil oxidizes and will lose its lubricating properties. Boats are always considered cold starts where 90% of wear occurs. The more you idle a diesel the better you will be served by more often oil changes. You will get more complete combustion at higher rpm's. The colder it is, the higher the rpm for complete combustion. If you don't do this, with the high fuel pressure of a diesel, you will get some past your rings, which will dilute your oil with diesel fuel. It would not hurt to have a base line with an engine oil analysis. I've had some drivers able to go 34,000 miles between oil changes, but this would be accrued in 3 months with few heat/cool down cycles unlike a boat. good health to you and your engine.
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