Our Hunter 36 has the yanmar ignition panel in the cockpit exposed to the elements. The stop engine button got stuck in the stop position and we were not able to start the engine. Because the button was stuck, the relay shorted out also. It has been suggested that we provide some sort of cover to protect the panel from driving rain when we are not on board. Any suggestions or similar experiences?
Yanmar Ignition Panel Corrosion
- Thread starter JohnEh
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Probably the same routing and location as the H31. The panel is on the port, and the kill push-pull cable is exposed to the elements protruding from the panel. In my case, as the cable aged, it became harder to pull. It finally stressed and cracked the panel housing. The cable is routed from the panel turning sharply to starboard under the pedestal, into the starboard locker where it takes a wide arc to the starboard side of the engine.
I decided to move the cable to about the same location as the panel, but on the starboard locker. I cut a hole in the locker to accept a standard stainless sink drain. I added some stainless fender washers the same OD as the cable at the bottom of the drain to accommodate the cable. This creates a watertight recessed housing for it. It (1) keeps the cable drier (2) keeps it flush with the locker so it's out of harms way and (3) reduces the chance of binding by allowing a much straighter and shorter cable run to the engine.
I decided to move the cable to about the same location as the panel, but on the starboard locker. I cut a hole in the locker to accept a standard stainless sink drain. I added some stainless fender washers the same OD as the cable at the bottom of the drain to accommodate the cable. This creates a watertight recessed housing for it. It (1) keeps the cable drier (2) keeps it flush with the locker so it's out of harms way and (3) reduces the chance of binding by allowing a much straighter and shorter cable run to the engine.
When this happened on our H'31, I decided to move the kill cable to a position down below. It is mounted on the top of the engine compartment. It worked much better than the original. This also provides a safety factor when we were in foreign ports. Just pull it out so no one can start the engine.
I have had this happen. I would just idle the engine back to idle and go pull the knob. It is not going to make much difference. When I have had this happen, the over heat situation stopped and I idled back to the dock. It was not a situation where we lost the impeller, but we just had something that we sucked up in the raw water intake.
The buzzers go off before you reach a critical temperature (if the buzzer is working, of course).
I had the same problem with the panel on my 45cc. It is recessed and had a clear plexiglass protector but would let rain water flow into and in back of the panel. Rusted connections badly. I took a clear sheet of flexible material (like dodger material) and fastened the top under a small teak strip to over lap the panel. Easy to lift up and acess and clear plastic allows you to see gauges
Hunter saved on a plexiglass cover?
My 2002 356, which is essentially the same design as the newer 36, came with a plexiglass cover over the engine control panel, and has a smallish opening to insert the key and to access the start button. I have never had water get to the panel itself, not even when I wash down the cockpit with a hose.
So the question is did Hunter save a buck by omitting the plexiglass cover, or was this just a factory boo boo on one boat? Do other 36s have covers or are they all missing one?
My 2002 356, which is essentially the same design as the newer 36, came with a plexiglass cover over the engine control panel, and has a smallish opening to insert the key and to access the start button. I have never had water get to the panel itself, not even when I wash down the cockpit with a hose.
So the question is did Hunter save a buck by omitting the plexiglass cover, or was this just a factory boo boo on one boat? Do other 36s have covers or are they all missing one?
I too like Steve's idea as a matter of security, but I'm not willing to give up the ability to shut the engine down from the helm. The PO installed an electric fuel pump [I know. Dead batt=no power. Haven't had the time to reconnect the mechanical pump to create a dual fuel delivery system] so I can shut that down from the cabin. When Hunter's plastic ignition switch fell apart I also moved that to the cabin to keep it from getting kicked around on the cockpit panel. I replaced the ignition switch at the cockpit panel with an on/off so I can still start the engine from the helm in a hurry if I am soloing.
Seaworthy Cover
I checked with seaworthy, but they apparantly don't have a cover to fix my yanmar panel. I will be going over to the boat soon and I plan to take a picture of my panel. Does anyone have a picture of one like mine? I have a 2004 Hunter 36. The panel has a tach, a red stop button, an ignition, an emergency engine shutdown guage, a place which was vacant where I installed an engine temperature guage and it is covered with a plexiglass cover which evidently does not adequately seal out the water. Seaworthy expressed in making a cover that would fit if they thought there were enough boats that have this kind.
I checked with seaworthy, but they apparantly don't have a cover to fix my yanmar panel. I will be going over to the boat soon and I plan to take a picture of my panel. Does anyone have a picture of one like mine? I have a 2004 Hunter 36. The panel has a tach, a red stop button, an ignition, an emergency engine shutdown guage, a place which was vacant where I installed an engine temperature guage and it is covered with a plexiglass cover which evidently does not adequately seal out the water. Seaworthy expressed in making a cover that would fit if they thought there were enough boats that have this kind.
Control Panel for Hunter 36 Yanmar 3GM30
This is a picture I found of my control panel. Does anyone know the actual dimensions?
This is a picture I found of my control panel. Does anyone know the actual dimensions?
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I just replaced my ignition panel today. it was easy but Im reluctant to put the shutoff cable back in the same place, where someone could accidently step on it again, and destroy the panel. I like the idea of drilling a separate hole to the left side of the panel and lower, directly into the fiberglass. im willing to bet it will last longer than the original location.
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