Yanmar engine panel

[Randy Church]

All,

Looking for the Yanmar engine instrument/control faceplate located in the cockpit. Mine was damaged when someone stepped on the engine pull/kill knob. I've had no luck with a glue repair so would like to replace or ???? Any suggestions and thank you.

 

[Claude L.-Auger]

All,

Looking for the Yanmar engine instrument/control faceplate located in the cockpit. Mine was damaged when someone stepped on the engine pull/kill knob. I've had no luck with a glue repair so would like to replace or ???? Any suggestions and thank you.

If you are looking only for the faceplate, they are not overly expensive and you should contact the Yanmar dealer in your area. Mack boring might be of some help also. Good luck

 

[kloudie1]

Exactly, Claude..
Ranchu, here is a link for just the faceplate.
http://shop.toadmarinesupply.com/ships_store/?p=numberresults&pn=128170-91010&storetype=mdd&x=7&y=12

 

[a65sailor]

When replacing the faceplate it is also a good time to replace the engine stop cable. They are not very costly and you have to take it loose at the engine to replace the panel.

 

[Richard Bryer]

This is how a small job grows:. I would also suggest moving the stop cable off the instrument panel. This is often what causes the panel to become cracked- if the cable gets a bit corroded, when you pull it that puts a lot of stress on the corner screws of the panel. I moved mine to the solid fiberglass just to the left of the panel. I used large ss washers bedded to the glass both inside and outside to back the hole.

 

[Nelsonhow]

Torrensen Marine in Michigan should have the replacement parts. I've used them for years and they are very helpful. Heres the email and phone

www.torresen.com\
3003 Lakeshore Dr, Muskegon ·
(231) 759-8596

 

[Steve Dion]

You can only purchase Yanmar parts from an authorized dealer/distributor in your region.

I believe that Mack Boring is the distributor but there are several dealers in your area.

http://us.yanmar.com/where-to-buy/

I would agree about the fuel shut off cable. This is often the reason that many of the "face plates" need to be replaced.

 

[a65sailor]

You should order a new panel gasket as well since you'll have it apart. I think they are around 5 or 10 dollars. Torrensen marine is a good source for parts. I use them but they are my local distributor. I wish I had known about the cable relocation when I did mine.

 

[Steve Dion]

I relocated my fuel shut off to the top of the engine compartment on my H'31. If we are in a strange port I would pull it so the engine would not start. Not a bad security thing to fight the thieves.

 

[Benny17441]

Panel templates are relatively inexpensive and should be available at your parts distributor from Yanmar.

 

[splax]

When I replace my cracked panel, I hope to change the engine (fuel?) cut-off pull knob to the electric servo to eliminate the issue of pulling the cable and stressing the panel.

 

[Fast Ed]

I would suggest re-routing your engine stop cable when you replace the faceplate. On my Hunter 34 the stop cable was poorly routed, probably because Hunter routed it before they put the deck on the boat.

A better routing will send it between the deck and hull liner. You should also consider installing it to the left of the panel, because the panel is not strong enough to stand up to pulling on it.

 

[wufibugs]

Yep, same here. I relocated the pull to the starboard side, which allowed me to shorten the cable quite a bit because on the H31 it's a pretty straight run from there to the engine. To prevent anyone stepping on the pull, I recessed it into the laz. To house the new stainless T-handle I used a stainless sink drain which already comes with a washer, has a nice mounting lip and large nut. Under $15 if you already have the hole saw.

 

[artboas]

Definitely !!!

When I replace my cracked panel, I hope to change the engine (fuel?) cut-off pull knob to the electric servo to eliminate the issue of pulling the cable and stressing the panel.

Get rid of the stop cable and go to electric stop. A really low cost retrofit
Here are the reasons

No salt & rust gumming up the stop cable
Easier to shut down
Less stress on panel

100% recommend this

 

[wufibugs]

Even if I went with a solenoid, I would want a manual backup for the kill switch. Here is a picture of my relocated recessed cable pull. Have not yet finished cleaning the caulk from around the installation.

 

[Nom De Guerre]

Even if I went with a solenoid, I would want a manual backup for the kill switch. Here is a picture of my relocated recessed cable pull. Have not yet finished cleaning the caulk from around the installation.

Belt and suspenders planning is great, but a reasonable backup to the electrical solenoid is to hop down and move the cutoff lever by hand if the primary method fails.

I definitely would not want the downsides of both remote systems if I were going to bother upgrading (getting rid of the original solution is half the reasoning behind doing so).

 

[Mike Daus]

Bought the panel housing and gasket from Torresen last July for 35.92 plus shipping. They don't ship to all states, however. Can't remember why but I had to have it delivered to my son's address a state away.

 

[Steve Olson]

Stop Cable

When replacing the faceplate it is also a good time to replace the engine stop cable. They are not very costly and you have to take it loose at the engine to replace the panel.

Does the H34 require the 3 or 4 meter version of the stop cable?

 

[zds]

My records show that I replaced mine with:

qty : 1, manufacturer: Yanmar, part number : 104271-67550, description : Engine Stop Cable, 10 Feet, total price : 24.78