During winterizing my boat I changed the oil and filter, and replaced the fuel filters. I added fuel and fuel stabilizer. Then I started my Yanmar 2GM20F. It started right up but then started to miss and then stopped. This has happened before and after bleeding the system the problem would go away. This time, however, after many attempts to bleed the engine it still would not start. I have followed the engine manual bleeding procedure a number of times without any success. The engine seems to want to run but it just can't make it. Any thoughts on how I should proceed?
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S. Sauer
Bleeding 2GM20F
If you've already tried the bleed screw on top of the engine mounted filter, the next bleed screw is in front where the fuel line from the filter drops down to the high pressure pump. If you have turned over the engine and bled the air out at this screw and tightened it up, the final bleed is at the fuel line caps at the injectors themselves. It is dificult to do this without two people (or unless you've rigged a remote starter). Crack the cap nut on the aft injector about 1-1/2 to 2 turns; turn over the engine till you see fuel in the area, stop and tighten the cap. Then loosen the forward injector cap and crank till you see fuel and re-tighten the cap nut. If this does not work you probably need to call in the pro's because the remaining issues involve the high pressure pump or the injector spray pattern. If it was running OK before the fiter change and you didn't get any dirt into the filter housing or fuel line to the HP pump, it should start and run OK.
If you've already tried the bleed screw on top of the engine mounted filter, the next bleed screw is in front where the fuel line from the filter drops down to the high pressure pump. If you have turned over the engine and bled the air out at this screw and tightened it up, the final bleed is at the fuel line caps at the injectors themselves. It is dificult to do this without two people (or unless you've rigged a remote starter). Crack the cap nut on the aft injector about 1-1/2 to 2 turns; turn over the engine till you see fuel in the area, stop and tighten the cap. Then loosen the forward injector cap and crank till you see fuel and re-tighten the cap nut. If this does not work you probably need to call in the pro's because the remaining issues involve the high pressure pump or the injector spray pattern. If it was running OK before the fiter change and you didn't get any dirt into the filter housing or fuel line to the HP pump, it should start and run OK.
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Ron
What I do
When I change the filter on my 30hp 3 cylinder Yanmar I have the same problem. I've installed a rubber bulb in the fuel line. I have someone crank the engine while I squeeze the bulb. The engine fires, but for a few minutes it runs rough. Every time it tries to quit I squeeze the bulb forcing fuel into the system. After a few minutes it smooths out and all is fine until the next time I change the fuel filter. I'm betting this will work for you too. The crappy little fuel pump on these engines can't force the air out by themselves. They need a lot of help. The bulb costs about 5 bucks and is well worth a try before you call in the pros... Ron
When I change the filter on my 30hp 3 cylinder Yanmar I have the same problem. I've installed a rubber bulb in the fuel line. I have someone crank the engine while I squeeze the bulb. The engine fires, but for a few minutes it runs rough. Every time it tries to quit I squeeze the bulb forcing fuel into the system. After a few minutes it smooths out and all is fine until the next time I change the fuel filter. I'm betting this will work for you too. The crappy little fuel pump on these engines can't force the air out by themselves. They need a lot of help. The bulb costs about 5 bucks and is well worth a try before you call in the pros... Ron
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Bill
Ron's idea
I like that idea Ron. While I haven't been faced with the bleeding issue yet, I think I am going to make that modification anyway, just to be ready.
I like that idea Ron. While I haven't been faced with the bleeding issue yet, I think I am going to make that modification anyway, just to be ready.
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Kevin
Ron, where in the fuel line?
Ron, can you tell me where you installed the bulb in relation to the filters. Thanks, Kevin
Ron, can you tell me where you installed the bulb in relation to the filters. Thanks, Kevin
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Ed
Add an upstream Racor filter.
I use the priming pump on the Racor to purge the air in the lines. Also, with it, I can see the quality of the fuel and how much sediment there is, plus it's so good that the original fuel filter doesn't need to be changed as often. However the original filter serves as a safety filter should anything get by the Racor (which hasn't happened yet). ;^) ~ Happy sails to you ~ _/) ~
I use the priming pump on the Racor to purge the air in the lines. Also, with it, I can see the quality of the fuel and how much sediment there is, plus it's so good that the original fuel filter doesn't need to be changed as often. However the original filter serves as a safety filter should anything get by the Racor (which hasn't happened yet). ;^) ~ Happy sails to you ~ _/) ~
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Bill O'Donovan
Whoa
Previous posts have warned against the bulb idea because it can decompose and clog the entire fuel system. Better to use a West System syringe to refill the last few cc of fuel as you put the filter cans back on. Your problem may be coincidental to the filter replacements, and may in fact be the mixing elbow. Unless it was replaced in the last five years it may have finally coked over, thus denying air to the system. The elbow should be replaced, not cleaned out. There's a lot in the Archives on how.
Previous posts have warned against the bulb idea because it can decompose and clog the entire fuel system. Better to use a West System syringe to refill the last few cc of fuel as you put the filter cans back on. Your problem may be coincidental to the filter replacements, and may in fact be the mixing elbow. Unless it was replaced in the last five years it may have finally coked over, thus denying air to the system. The elbow should be replaced, not cleaned out. There's a lot in the Archives on how.
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Warren M.
Bleeding Diesels
Here is an inexpensive and easy to do method for bleeding a diesel like the 2GM20F that does not have an electric fuel pump (this may not work on all engines, but worth a try): find a way to cover the small fuel line vent. You can use a piece of duct tape or a small rubber cup from the bottom of a chair, use whatever works. Puncture it with the tip of air pump needle for a football. Attach the needle to the pump and pump air into the system, which pressurizes it. Crank the engine. Pump more air in if needed, which forces fuel down the system from the tank to the engine. This is not a perfect system, but can work on some engines.
Here is an inexpensive and easy to do method for bleeding a diesel like the 2GM20F that does not have an electric fuel pump (this may not work on all engines, but worth a try): find a way to cover the small fuel line vent. You can use a piece of duct tape or a small rubber cup from the bottom of a chair, use whatever works. Puncture it with the tip of air pump needle for a football. Attach the needle to the pump and pump air into the system, which pressurizes it. Crank the engine. Pump more air in if needed, which forces fuel down the system from the tank to the engine. This is not a perfect system, but can work on some engines.
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Fred Ficarra
I've tried variations of these methods
Check out the picture of aft cabin with the refer system but not with the doors, for the clearest picture of our fuel system. I've tried both the electric pump and the bulb to get around that useless Yanmar hand pump method. The bulb works great but where I have it installed requires pumping from out of sight of the injector bleed. And I have had plenty of filthy fuel aboard. With good pre-filter always installed, the little Yanmar original, was still good after 15 years.
Check out the picture of aft cabin with the refer system but not with the doors, for the clearest picture of our fuel system. I've tried both the electric pump and the bulb to get around that useless Yanmar hand pump method. The bulb works great but where I have it installed requires pumping from out of sight of the injector bleed. And I have had plenty of filthy fuel aboard. With good pre-filter always installed, the little Yanmar original, was still good after 15 years.
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Steve S.
$.10 Washer?
There is a Nylon washer on the bleeder screw that can become crushed or cut when you tighten the screw down. If this happens, it allows air to be pulled back into the system. You might try this $.10 solution before the more expensive stuff. It happened on my 2GM the second time I did mine. Steve
There is a Nylon washer on the bleeder screw that can become crushed or cut when you tighten the screw down. If this happens, it allows air to be pulled back into the system. You might try this $.10 solution before the more expensive stuff. It happened on my 2GM the second time I did mine. Steve
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Fred Ficarra
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Ron
Kevin
Anywhere after the tank. Just so you can get to it and force fuel into the system. I've been doing this for eight years now and it works great... Ron
Anywhere after the tank. Just so you can get to it and force fuel into the system. I've been doing this for eight years now and it works great... Ron
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Paul McCartney
Bill O'Donovan
Bill... If you buy a good bulb you get one made of the same material as the fuel line, therefore it doesn't decompose. Aren't you the same guy who said you couldn't repack the stuffing box with the boat in the water? Paul
Bill... If you buy a good bulb you get one made of the same material as the fuel line, therefore it doesn't decompose. Aren't you the same guy who said you couldn't repack the stuffing box with the boat in the water? Paul
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