Yanmar 2gm20f - Suspected fuel line blockage

May 10, 2021
20
Hunter 28 Kemah
Bought a 1990 Hunter 28 a few years ago to learn to sail and it has had good bones to her, but as one would expect an older boat needs lots of TLC. Last year when I last took it out she overheated. I had just broke the channel and couldn't turn around so I pointed into the wind and hoisted the main, killed the engine to sail a bit to let her cool down to get her in port. I was able to crank the motor back up and putt into port and she alarmed just as I was putting her in the slip so confident no damage was done as she didn't get really hot.

Finally got around to inspecting this spring and sea water pump had no impellers so I replaced it. Wasn't sure of condition of heat exchanger so pulled it from the boat along with the exhaust elbow. I soaked the core in phosphoric acid as it was a bit dirty. Not as bad as I anticipated though. A few tubes were clogged so I cleaned those with a gun barrel brush. Got her put back together with fresh gaskets and seals and threw a new coat of yanmar grey on there to pretty her up.

There was gunk in the coolant overflow so I decided to do a complete flush of the motor and cleaned out the overflow reservoir too. Filled motor with distilled water for the flush. That is where I am at there, will fill with dexos when I get her running good. I also rebuilt my raw water filter as it was not sealing properly any longer with new seals, site glass and some other hardware.

Since I have not done the fuel filter and broke the fuel lines to do all this work, I went ahead and did that too. Replaced primary (there was sludge in the bottom of the filter) and cleaned the housing up good and then did the secondary on the motor. Used gravity with the bleed valve open on first filter to fill it up (made a little mess but no diesel in the bilge). :) Lessons learned for sure for next time. lol Used the manual pump to bleed to the secondary fuel filter bleed screw. Didn't take terribly long to fill it up. I probably pumped it for less than a minute so I was a little surprised how quickly it got fuel there. Then I bled the screw that drops down under the fuel filter before it enters the fuel pump. That one had quite a bit of air and spritz out for a bit before I saw a flow. I decided to try it from there hoping no air was beyond the fuel pump. It cranked right up as she always has. I then noticed a huge fuel leak under the motor.

When I removed the fuel line from the manual pump to get the exchanger off, the copper washer fell off, I didn't even see it but found it in the mess of diesel under the motor so I read the Yanmar manual and it says there are 2 washers, one on each side of that nut but I only found one so I put an extra one on according to the yanmar manual. I called my local yanmar service center and they agreed to use 2 washers. I assumed that was where it was leaking so I removed the extra washer on the outside of the bolt (the bolt has a hole in it that fuel passes through and it threads into the manual pump) and tightened down but it still leaked. Then I found it was leaking from before the fuel filter and hugging the fuel line. That nut must have worked loose in all the work and I didn't check before starting the boat. I tightened that nut up and a couple more on the fuel filter and cranked her up and then no more fuel leak.

Inspected the boat to assure the raw water was coming out properly and if the seawater pump was doing well. I saw more throughput than I had ever seen in the past. No visible leaks on the motor that I can observe from anywhere else. My goal then was to let her run a good 30 minute and cycle the distilled water through the motor good so I could drain and add coolant. I realized that I didn't fill the overflow with any coolant and knew the thermostat would be kicking over soon so I pulled the reservoir from the bracket while the motor was running against my better judgement and opened it up and proceeded to fill the reservoir with distilled water. At that point it started sputtering while I was fill it so I stopped and put the cap back and by the time I got the reservoir hung the motor died. I was unable to get the motor started again and in the 100 degree heat decided to call it.

The more I think about it the less I feel like me opening that overflow had anything to do with it dying but I want to throw in that detail because I am learning to work on this motor and am not a mechanic. The motor ran for at least 5 minutes, well under 10. Engine got warm but not hot, I don't think the themostat ever opened because when I opened the reservoir it was still filled up. Then again, maybe I have it completely full of fluid. When it died it sounded like it wasn't getting fuel. I suspect trash in the fuel line or maybe air.

Apologies for the long write up but there has been a lot of work done on the motor since it last ran so I want everyone to know the history of this repair. So my question after this long book is, what is the best place to start in diagnosing this? I live about 1.5 hours from my boat so I have to figure out my strategy before going there unfortunately. I was going to start with seeing if I have fuel at each bleed screw and if missing anywhere go back from that point. If I didn't find anything, I was going to try and see if there is a bleed valve on the fuel pump and then bleed the cylinders but outside of that and doing something drastic like draining the tank of all fuel (it is pretty full) and removing all fuel lines, taking them home and cleaning them. Removing tank and assuring it is clean with no trash, putting in fresh fuel, wasn't sure what to do. My tank is plastic so hopefully there is no trash in it but very likely condensation as I live in a highly humid environment, and it is a sailboat that lives on the water. It is disgusting when I look at it, full of 35 years of dust and stuff. Definitely on the list to clean up. Can't read the gauge to see how much fuel she has. It has definitely been something I wanted to pull but I am also an advocate of not fixing things that aren't broken. That usually leads to me breaking more stuff.

Thanks for listening and I appreciate anyone's advice on getting her running good again.
 
Nov 21, 2012
650
Yamaha 33 Port Ludlow, WA
It doesn't take much of an air leak in the fuel system to bring the engine to a sputtering halt. It can also take about that much time for an air leak to make itself known. I run the engine, at the dock and under load, any time I have to open the fuel system for any reason. I've had similar experience with the engine sputtering just as I needed it.

Things to check: Make sure you use brand new washers on the banjo bolts every time. Torque on each banjo bolt. Tighten worm clamps on all hoses. The check valve on certain Racor filters can stick open if dirt gets in, allowing air into the lines. That's a start.

Be methodical and make sure every connection is sound.
 
May 10, 2021
20
Hunter 28 Kemah
It doesn't take much of an air leak in the fuel system to bring the engine to a sputtering halt. It can also take about that much time for an air leak to make itself known. I run the engine, at the dock and under load, any time I have to open the fuel system for any reason. I've had similar experience with the engine sputtering just as I needed it.

Things to check: Make sure you use brand new washers on the banjo bolts every time. Torque on each banjo bolt. Tighten worm clamps on all hoses. The check valve on certain Racor filters can stick open if dirt gets in, allowing air into the lines. That's a start.

Be methodical and make sure every connection is sound.
Thanks that is super helpful and encouraging. I figured that running it that long assured I got the air out so hearing that is about the amount of time needed to find some trapped air is good news. I am hoping that is the issue. I'll post updates this weekend when I give it another shot.
 
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Nov 6, 2006
9,972
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Quick note: the fuel pickup tube in the fuel tank sometimes has a little screen on the tip.. If the engine stops again from what seems like fuel starvation, it might be goodd to pull thatt tube and check for a screen.. If there is one, remove it and let the primary filter do its thing... Since you found sludge in the bottom of the filter, you may have a plugged screen..
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
21,839
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Your post was great. It sounds like you did a good job of covering all the basics till the issue of fuel squirting out under the engine. Stuff happens. @mermike's recommendation to take it step by step and stay in the moment is spot on. We can quickly get ahead of ourselves when putting things back together and miss something.

As you're discovering, the diesel engine is not as complex as it may seem. It's a matter of feeding it clean fuel, air, and ensuring proper compression. Providing these three, it will run like a charm. :)

After you have checked (tightened) all the hose connections and nuts, confirm that the fuel filter is clean and bleeds the air out of the fuel lines, then give it a chance to start up.

Fuel starvation is the usual suspect when the engine dies.
The causes can be:
  • air getting into the fuel lines,
  • clogged fuel filter or fuel intake,
  • a closed fuel valve,
  • clogged fuel line
  • lack of fuel in the tank.
As Mike suggests, it is best to check the system "Be methodical."
 
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Jan 4, 2006
6,854
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
There is no connection between dirty cooling water lines (either raw water or AF) and the engine shutting down. There is no high temperature engine shut down on the 2GM20F.

Be methodical and make sure every connection is sound.
Truer words were never spoken. If one is not methodical, I would suggest completely ignoring the problem and just hope for the best every time you head out. The results are the same.

In this case, methodical would be starting at a possible tank filter screen. Tear it out and throw it away as far as you can. Next, fuel in the tank, make sure it's full. Next, check every joint in the line. You're lucky in that it sounds like you have a good hydrostatic head to help you find leaks. If in doubt, wrap the joint in paper towel, tape in place, and look for stains after a few days of sitting at the dock.

An bleed point I recently discovered is located at the entrance to the high pressure injector pump. Yours may look like this if it's a later model as is my 1998 and has a drain line to catch any vented fuel :

1724175294325.png


If it's an earlier earlier model, it may not have the drain line after the bleed screw and then allows any vented fuel to drop to the floor under the engine.

If you're still getting erratic running, it may be time to vent fuel and any air from the high pressure connection to the injectors. Use extreme caution as detailed in the manual.

If that still doesn't cure the problem, it's time to start spending money :facepalm: .
 
Jan 7, 2011
5,096
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
There is no connection between dirty cooling water lines (either raw water or AF) and the engine shutting down. There is no high temperature engine shut down on the 2GM20F.



Truer words were never spoken. If one is not methodical, I would suggest completely ignoring the problem and just hope for the best every time you head out. The results are the same.

In this case, methodical would be starting at a possible tank filter screen. Tear it out and throw it away as far as you can. Next, fuel in the tank, make sure it's full. Next, check every joint in the line. You're lucky in that it sounds like you have a good hydrostatic head to help you find leaks. If in doubt, wrap the joint in paper towel, tape in place, and look for stains after a few days of sitting at the dock.

An bleed point I recently discovered is located at the entrance to the high pressure injector pump. Yours may look like this if it's a later model as is my 1998 and has a drain line to catch any vented fuel :

View attachment 226943

If it's an earlier earlier model, it may not have the drain line after the bleed screw and then allows any vented fuel to drop to the floor under the engine.

If you're still getting erratic running, it may be time to vent fuel and any air from the high pressure connection to the injectors. Use extreme caution as detailed in the manual.

If that still doesn't cure the problem, it's time to start spending money :facepalm: .
Finally got to use that new-found knowledge, eh Ralph ;)

Damn that engine is clean!

Greg
 
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Jan 4, 2006
6,854
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
Finally got to use that new-found knowledge, eh Ralph ;)
It's like learning a new word and just itching to use it.

Still haven't got out to my engine to shut off the vent drain.

Damn that engine is clean!
It has to be, it's where I hide my lunch. Damn crew of mine would have it eaten in a heartbeat if I left it lying around.
 
May 10, 2021
20
Hunter 28 Kemah
I just got back from the boat so I figured I would report back, despite the embarrassment. I went ahead and replaced all crush washers on my banjo bolts since I know they are supposed to have 2 and one of mine has 1. I went to shut off the fuel line before pulling the line and it was in the 90 degree position. Noooooooo.....did I really not open the freaking fuel line from the tank before getting the motor ready to start. So it was good that I didn't have to spend a bunch of time diagnosing a fuel line issue, but I feel pretty stupid for not opening the fuel shut off valve before I started bleeding my lines. She cranked right up and ran great. I loaded her up pretty good in the slip. The only issue is I noticed a little dampness on my from primary fuel filter. It was weeping a little fuel from the plastic vent valve. I didn't want to tighten it too much but cranked it a little more but it didn't help. I end up breaking it off in the housing. I guess Racor has abandoned this design in favor of the 110A which has a metal screw for the vent plug. I guess I'll have to pull this fuel filter and bring it to the hardware store to try and find a replacement vent bolt. I hate to buy a whole new filter for a bolt. Thanks for all the help. I feel confident in my ability to change fuel filters and work through fuel issues now on my Yanmar.
 
Jan 4, 2006
6,854
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
I went to shut off the fuel line before pulling the line and it was in the 90 degree position. Noooooooo.....did I really not open the freaking fuel line from the tank before getting the motor ready to start.
You can avoid this problem from happening again by ensuring the valve handle is in the OPEN position and then taking a ball peen hammer and smashing off the handle. You'll never have to worry about making that mistake again :

1724631261621.png
 
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jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
21,839
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
It is true. Clean fuel supplied to a diesel engine that has a source of air and compression will run.

Good on you for resolving your problem and gaining the knowledge to solve any associated future issues.

cheers:beer: that was a WIN! :biggrin:
 
Oct 6, 2007
1,062
Hunter H30 1982 Chicago IL
I added an in-line convenience shut-off valve right at the inlet to the Racor primary filter/separator. Never have to touch the valve at the tank and there’s less hose to bleed.
 
May 10, 2021
20
Hunter 28 Kemah
For anyone with this old Racor 110 filter with the plastic vent plug, this can be replaced with a 3/8 - 24 bolt that is 1/2" long. It actually extends about a quarter inch into the body more than the original but that was the smallest bolt I could find. I wrapped it good with teflon and it seems to have sealed it up good and the motor runs well.

@Dalliance The fuel shutoff right before the primary filter is a good idea and would make it a lot easier to use gravity to fill the filter with the vent. I have to go above deck to turn my fuel shut off valve and since I am usually alone doing things at the boat it means I have some diesel to clean up. :) I may try that when I get to a point where I need an extra project. Thanks again for all the help.
 
Jan 4, 2006
6,854
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
I added an in-line convenience shut-off valve right at the inlet to the Racor primary filter/separator. Never have to touch the valve at the tank and there’s less hose to bleed.
Anyone who does their own fuel filter changes and doesn't have a local shut-off valve just isn't playing with a full deck.

I have a good hydrostatic head on the fuel filter and the first time I changed the filter core, it was a mess. Back and forth and up and down to the tank valve and the whole length of tubing between the tank and the filter drained out. The slope of the tube was such that getting the air out was a feat of biblical proportion. Every time I powered the engine to 3000 RPM, it slowed down until the small bit of air had passed and then "let's do it all over again". I finally removed the incoming tube to the filter, opened the valve at the tank and used full flow from the hydrostatic head to clear the tube of air, kept my finger over the tube and jammed it on to the filter. NEVER AGAIN I swore and this was the correction to the problem :

1726600422818.png


When installing the new local shut-off valve, I corked the inlet tube as soon as it was pulled (no air) and kept it plugged until the local valve was installed.
 
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Likes: jssailem
May 10, 2021
20
Hunter 28 Kemah
Anyone who does their own fuel filter changes and doesn't have a local shut-off valve just isn't playing with a full deck.

I have a good hydrostatic head on the fuel filter and the first time I changed the filter core, it was a mess. Back and forth and up and down to the tank valve and the whole length of tubing between the tank and the filter drained out. The slope of the tube was such that getting the air out was a feat of biblical proportion. Every time I powered the engine to 3000 RPM, it slowed down until the small bit of air had passed and then "let's do it all over again". I finally removed the incoming tube to the filter, opened the valve at the tank and used full flow from the hydrostatic head to clear the tube of air, kept my finger over the tube and jammed it on to the filter. NEVER AGAIN I swore and this was the correction to the problem :

View attachment 227535

When installing the new local shut-off valve, I corked the inlet tube as soon as it was pulled (no air) and kept it plugged until the local valve was installed.
Very nice setup. Your first experience changing fuel filter is an exact description of what I went through. lol, definitely a lesson in what not to do. Next season when I do this job again, I will definitely be adding an inline shutoff valve at a minimum. Thanks for the great suggestions!
 
Jan 4, 2006
6,854
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
Use 1/4" ball valves as they are a nice fit in a tight space. Make sure they are a good quality and not just a big box store item. Buy from a plumbing supply company and make sure they are natural gas rated to ensure they are of a good quality. A bit more $$$ but worth it to avoid the smell from a leak.

I am learning to work on this motor and am not a mechanic.
For not being a mechanic YET, you've definitely got a logical mind and that is the number one requirement. Do it yourself wherever possible. Use the Yanmar manual like a bible. There is also a SELOC manual for Yanmars of your period which gives alternate pictures which is often valuable when dealing with more complex items :

1726682546341.png



Next season when I do this job again, I will definitely be adding an inline shutoff valve at a minimum.
I don't remember if you mentioned what type of fuel filter you have but the reason my filter is located towards the rear of the boat is that originally it was located further forward over a big bundle of wiring and hoses. The area over the wires etc. had to be blanketed with poly and rags to avoid soaking everything with fuel when the filter was opened. AND the filter casing required something like 2-3" clearance under it to remove the filter core. You want to talk mess ? That was beyond belief if you're a clean nut like I am with my OCD or CDO as the real nut cases like to call it ? The arrangement as shown in post #15 has 1/4" clearance under the casing, so it is mounted against a stringer and easily removable from the bolts. Using the two large coils of fuel hose, the filter can be removed and worked on, in the open, over a bowl to catch the drained fuel. Spotlessly clean.
 
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May 10, 2021
20
Hunter 28 Kemah
I don't remember if you mentioned what type of fuel filter you have but the reason my filter is located towards the rear of the boat is that originally it was located further forward over a big bundle of wiring and hoses.
My setup is surprisingly almost identical to yours. Matter of fact, the primary filter was mounted into the fiberglass and when I did this job I noticed only one of the screws was holding it in so I was going to use some JB weld on those screw holes and redrill. I like what you have, that piece of poly that it is mounted to. I think I'll try and find something like that. I'll do the same for my raw water filter.
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
21,839
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Manic... Yes it is a pertty picture. All that clean white poly mounting base. There has been a bit of a challenge for many a DIY boat builder. How do you secure poly to fiberglass or, for that matter, anything? Stuff does not want to stick to Starboard, easily.
Fasteners work but the common adhesives, not so much. I came across this article a few years ago. It may help.

I have seen G10, Cousa board, and fiberglass boards used on many boats as mounting boards. They can all be attached to the fiberglass hull using thickened epoxy.