Yanmar 2GM issue

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Apr 30, 2008
41
in between boats for now Plattsburgh Boat Basin, Plattsburgh, NY
I have an Oday 302 with a Yanmar 2GM diesel engine.
when I rev past 2500rpm the water stops coming out of the exit pipe. I have to lower the RPM and water starts again.
Could this be an impeller issue or something else?
thanks
 
May 24, 2004
470
Hunter 33.5 Portsmouth, RI
Check belt tension of the smaller belt which drives the raw water pump. While you are at it check tension of both belts.
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
That sounds like the issue. Even if it "LOOKS" okay, but sure to remove it and be sure that the hub is not rotating in the impeller.

Also check your belt tension. If you hear a "hollow" sound then there is no water in the exhaust.
 
Nov 6, 2006
10,219
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
If those don't do it, next are things like partially restricted thru-hull.. and or a collapsing suction line ... and a bad strainer gasket or hose that might be letting in air at higher RPM..
 
Jun 7, 2007
515
Hunter 320 Williamsburg
Mixing elbow

Or it could be a clogged mixing elbow, restricting the flow of water and leading to overheating and shutdown. Usually replaced every 500 hours. If you try to replace it, dismantle four bolts at the manifold since the elbow itself has to be dislodged on a workbench, often with an iron bar as leverage.
 
Dec 19, 2006
5,832
Hunter 36 Punta Gorda
All Above

But try one thing at a time and than run it for test, bad impeller change it any way and than test it or clogged or resrticted heat exchanger,bad hoses or strainer clog but try one at a time to figure out what it was causing it.
Nick
 
Nov 28, 2009
495
Catalina 30 St. Croix
If you can observe the exhaust hose while running the engine, check it for collapsing. They can get soft with age. I replaced mine and no more problem.
 
Jan 4, 2006
7,650
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
Taking This to the Lowest Possible Denominator ....

.... place your hand on the mixing elbow when you are running above 2500 RPM. It should be just warm to the touch. No water = nasty burn. This will confirm if water flow has actually stopped.

Mine actually runs cold to the touch under full load. Mind you, half the time it feels like we're surrounded by icebergs here in B.C. the water is so cold.
 
May 24, 2004
7,215
CC 30 South Florida
All good advice, but I would start with the easiest and most probable. Observe the cooling hoses and see if any is collapsing at higher RPM. Make sure the belts are tight so there is no slipage for the raw water pump. Impeller slipping on the hub can happen but usually reflects a total failure and not just at higher RPM (but do check). Check for a partial blockage on the thruhull, strainers and hoses as some obstructions may act as a flap valve by increasingly reducing flow as the suction increases.
 
Jun 25, 2012
942
hunter 356 Kemah,the Republic of Texas
That sounds like the issue. Even if it "LOOKS" okay, but sure to remove it and be sure that the hub is not rotating in the impeller.

Also check your belt tension. If you hear a "hollow" sound then there is no water in the exhaust.
You mean the sounds like a Huey Helicopter flying low over your head.
 
Jun 25, 2012
942
hunter 356 Kemah,the Republic of Texas
All good advice, but I would start with the easiest and most probable. Observe the cooling hoses and see if any is collapsing at higher RPM. Make sure the belts are tight so there is no slipage for the raw water pump. Impeller slipping on the hub can happen but usually reflects a total failure and not just at higher RPM (but do check). Check for a partial blockage on the thruhull, strainers and hoses as some obstructions may act as a flap valve by increasingly reducing flow as the suction increases.
I would do the above (see quote)and also becareful when checking on the belt tension not to over tighten the belt it could cause the pully bearings to fail.
 

jeffro

.
Jul 23, 2012
1
Cape Dory 36 Lake Stockton
Replace seawater hoses from intake valve to the water pump. Replace impeller, clean sea strainer! Higher RPM requires more seawater and thus more vacuum, possibly the seawater inlet hose is collapsing @ that RPM.
 
Jun 25, 2012
942
hunter 356 Kemah,the Republic of Texas
Replace seawater hoses from intake valve to the water pump. Replace impeller, clean sea strainer! Higher RPM requires more seawater and thus more vacuum, possibly the seawater inlet hose is collapsing @ that RPM.
If the belt tension is good and shows no signs of slipping then I would bet it is a collapsing intake hose from the raw water strainer as the quote above states.
 
Apr 30, 2008
41
in between boats for now Plattsburgh Boat Basin, Plattsburgh, NY
Thanks guys. i will take it one at a time. And yes...it sounds like a huey helicopter fly-by...
 
Nov 6, 2006
10,219
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Just a note..: Observing the hose may or may not let ya know if it is collapsing.. I have had one that the internal lining separated from the stiffening wire.. The liner collapsed but the hose looked fine from the outside. Not a lot of hose there.. if you get to that troubleshooting point, just replace it and be done with it.
 
Jun 25, 2012
942
hunter 356 Kemah,the Republic of Texas
Just a note..: Observing the hose may or may not let ya know if it is collapsing.. I have had one that the internal lining separated from the stiffening wire.. The liner collapsed but the hose looked fine from the outside. Not a lot of hose there.. if you get to that troubleshooting point, just replace it and be done with it.
Kloudie ....Good point! I had not thought of that happening. Lately I have been starting to thinking about replacing all my hoses. This is another reason to get to it.
 
Nov 6, 2006
10,219
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
The collapsing hose is kind of a long shot thing but if you even suspect the hose needs replacement, knock that one out..
 
Dec 19, 2006
5,832
Hunter 36 Punta Gorda
Hose

One thing to check is disconnect the hose to raw water pump and see how much water comes out of hose when you open thru hull.
Nick
 

RichH

.
Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
A strong possibility for such intermittent cooling water flow stoppage at high rpm is an exhaust manifold that is beginning to fail.

Cast iron when it cools in its foundry mold forms 'stratifications' in the metal structure; the metal essentially forms a stratified structure similar to an onion. Once rusting eventually begins, accelerated by storing the engine 'dry', the stratifications begin to be pushed apart by the formation of ferric (red) rust and the result is the formation of 'slab rust'. The small slabs fall off and accumulate in the bottom of the water passages of the exhaust header .... until max. velocity of cooling water disturbs the slabs and they begin to 'move'. Most small diesel exhaust manifolds have both their water inlet and outlet on the 'top' of the manifold .... the particles essentially stay inside the manifold. Typically a few small 'slabs' of rust 1/5 the size of the outlet nozzle of the manifold is enough for the particles to 'bridge' together and fully shut down the flow (at max. flow) at the outlet nozzle of the manifold .... only to fall back down inside the manifold when the engine is shut down.

If you are 'brave' here is how to test for rust slabs inside the HOT manifold .... dont get burned: Run the engine until HOT and the flow decreasses, keep the engine runnning and pull off the hose at the outlet of the manifold --- if there is flow then the blockage isnt in the manifold; if there isnt flow remove the hose at the intlet to verify flow - if flow, its the manifold that is 'slabbing closed'. You can do this by applying small 'cock valves' to analyze with less risk of getting burned/scalded or you can install a temporary 'hose jumper' across the manifold - but can only run 'briefly'.
The alternative is to remove the exhaust manifold from a cold engine, turn it upside down and shake out the small 'slabs'; you may need to reach inside the manifold with a stiff wire to break up the larger 'slabs' (you may even find broken pieces of pump impeller along with the slabs). Then, pressure test the manifold to verify its integrity.

To prevent such 'slab' formation: always run the engine at max. for a moderately long period (the longer the better) to help develop black/ferrous rust, which is protective; never 'drain' the engine for long term storage - always use an antifreeze with rust inhibitors.

Once a manifold starts to develop 'slab rust' the danger is that eventually there will develop a pin hole between the water side and the gas side ... and you should perform periodic pressure testing of the manifold to be sure that there arent developed 'pin holes'.

Get yourself an infra-red indirect read thermometer and profile the entire engine at normal operating conditions .... take pics and write the temps. taken ON the pics. Then when you develop cooling problems, simply compare the profiles temps. with the actual at hand temps .... the 'bulge' in increased temp is where the restriction or blockage is located.

hope this helps. Good luck, dont scald yourself. ;-)
 
Last edited:
Apr 30, 2008
41
in between boats for now Plattsburgh Boat Basin, Plattsburgh, NY
The collapsing hose is kind of a long shot thing but if you even suspect the hose needs replacement, knock that one out..
Thanks, will be replacing all hoses just to be sure.
 
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