Im about to undertake replacing engine mounts , I have a plan for the mount replacement itself but on re aligning do I just use feeler guages or is a dial indicator necessary ? Or neither just eye ball it ?
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A torn of piece of a matchbook cover will work.
You're just looking for 'feel'. An even pull. Use four tabs evenly spaced around the coupling. Try to get them pulling out with the same tug force. But really, once the flange holds all four at the same time, you're as good as done. Good luck. Good word really pays off on this job.
You're just looking for 'feel'. An even pull. Use four tabs evenly spaced around the coupling. Try to get them pulling out with the same tug force. But really, once the flange holds all four at the same time, you're as good as done. Good luck. Good word really pays off on this job.
Shaft Alignment
Tim, In addition to the information Fred gave you, you can use a feeler gauge to check that space between the engine and propshaft flanges. Once you have tightened up the coupler bolts, slowly turn the flange assembly by hand (release the compression lever on the engine)and check the space. If the space is not the same all the way around you will need to move the engine by adjusting the new motor mounts. If you cannot get the adjustment right, you will need to loosen the mounts from the engine bed and push the engine around where it needs to go and then readjust and tighten the mounts. On my engine, I replaced the engine mounts and ended up having to recess the engine bed where the feet of the motor mounts are bolted on. The mounts were slightly different than the old ones. Additonally, pay attention to the measurement between the shaft and the shaft thru hull. The spacing around the shaft should be close to the same as well. You can use a feeler gauge or dial indicator if there is room. FYI - I took the opportunity to eliminate the packing nut/gland and installed a PYI dripless seal. Best upgrade I made so far. Check you cutlass bearing also. Once the boat is back in the water, you will need to recheck the alignment again at the flange to be sure the alignment is still okay. You may want to check it a third time after you come back from your first sail. Good luck
Tim, In addition to the information Fred gave you, you can use a feeler gauge to check that space between the engine and propshaft flanges. Once you have tightened up the coupler bolts, slowly turn the flange assembly by hand (release the compression lever on the engine)and check the space. If the space is not the same all the way around you will need to move the engine by adjusting the new motor mounts. If you cannot get the adjustment right, you will need to loosen the mounts from the engine bed and push the engine around where it needs to go and then readjust and tighten the mounts. On my engine, I replaced the engine mounts and ended up having to recess the engine bed where the feet of the motor mounts are bolted on. The mounts were slightly different than the old ones. Additonally, pay attention to the measurement between the shaft and the shaft thru hull. The spacing around the shaft should be close to the same as well. You can use a feeler gauge or dial indicator if there is room. FYI - I took the opportunity to eliminate the packing nut/gland and installed a PYI dripless seal. Best upgrade I made so far. Check you cutlass bearing also. Once the boat is back in the water, you will need to recheck the alignment again at the flange to be sure the alignment is still okay. You may want to check it a third time after you come back from your first sail. Good luck
When I installed my new engine
I followed all of the steps outlined in the previous posts with one additional item. With a hole saw (well two hole saws really) I made a crude wood bushing that was bored inside for the shaft and the outside diameter slipped into the stern tube. I sawed the bushing in two along its length. Then it was simple to slip this into the stern tube to support and center the shaft. Just make it long enough to bbe able to pull it out when you finish. Oh, one other item use a Drivesaver between the engine flange and the shaft flange.
I followed all of the steps outlined in the previous posts with one additional item. With a hole saw (well two hole saws really) I made a crude wood bushing that was bored inside for the shaft and the outside diameter slipped into the stern tube. I sawed the bushing in two along its length. Then it was simple to slip this into the stern tube to support and center the shaft. Just make it long enough to bbe able to pull it out when you finish. Oh, one other item use a Drivesaver between the engine flange and the shaft flange.
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