xyz anchor

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Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
I can except that. SS anchors have to be an

EGO thing. There is certainly no reason to use them. I was in the Philippine Island in 1961-62 and spent much time on the beach in Lingayen gulf. The broken steel from the invasion in 1944-45 was still on the beach and some of it was still solid. Steel lasts a long time even in the worst exposures. The most deteriorated was at the surfline where it was constantly wet and exposed to air. Diving I saw galvanized cable that still had the zinc showing.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,722
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Ross..

Quote: "We demanded repeatability." Ross no one ever said the Bruce or the CQR don't work. They BOTH work. For me the genuine Bruce worked better than the CQR on varying bottom types but required me to go up one size, not always feasible for many without a windlass, to hold in heavy winds. Unfortunately a longer scope is a great answer but it is NOT feasible in most anchorages. In some yes, but you can't count on the "repeatability", in summer months, of finding a spot where you can plunk down 10:1. In Maine often times a 5:1 is the after set scope we need to shorten to. We rode out a 50 knot blow on a Bruce, running about 10:1 and only dragged about 20 yards but, it was over sized, 33lb on a Cat 30, had been properly set and we had lots of 3/8" chain. For me the Bruce anchor set at close to 85-90% on the first try from fairly hard bottoms to mud to thick clay. It had a tough time in a hard or grassy substrate as many anchors do. It re-set well too but not always. Many times we get 360's or 720's throughout the night. While in the morning it's sometimes calms and most boaters THINK their anchor held I always do a morning back down check just to see. I honestly know of no other boaters that will back down on the anchor in the am to see if it held on a re-set. If it's calm when you wake up facing the opposite direction it doesn't not necessarily mean your anchor held on the re-set!!! The Bruce did ok at this and beat my CQR's by a decent margin. How do you know your anchor held over night on a 180 shift, in benign conditions, if you don't check it? CQR - The anchor works! My issue, and I used two over the years, was as you said "repeatability". Because I actually set my anchor, and most boaters don't, I knew how frustrating it can be to make three attempts with a CQR to get a firm hold. This was not out of the ordinary. Did it ever set first try? YES!!!! About 80% of the time my CQR set on the first drop and set. It was the "repeatability of my CQR's and the flat out hassle of un-predictable "repeatability" that forced me to find a better alternative with better "repeatability". The most recent two "new generation" anchors I've purchased are at 100%, in all performance measures, in over 200+/- anchorings. This is the "performance" I was looking for. Taking sometimes 25 to 40 minutes to get a proper set, in an area where I WANT to anchor, is not something I ever want to have to do again and yes this occurred with my CQR enough to be a PITA. Please understand that I have spent many successful nights on a CQR! My CQR is well worn and well used and the anchor was and is still a GOOD improvement over a Danforth type when I switched to it just as many of the newer generation anchors are over the Bruce and CQR. Just because a newer design performs with better repeatability does NOT mean the old anchors stopped working it only means the newer ones do so with more predictability and in many cases higher holding power for a given weight. To hopefully answer your question about CQR or Bruce remaining popular. I would ask you to find even a hand full of boaters, who in the last year, have laid down more than the cost of the much maligned Rocna price, for a genuine CQR? More than once I have posted both of my CQR's here for 1/4 or less what they sell for new and never even had a phone call or email until the adds expired. I have tried the same on Craigslist and other forums "gear here" areas and NADA! If new CQR's are still popular at $660.00 for a 35 pounder I would love to see that data when I can't even seemingly give mine away. The genuine Bruce is GONE, as in NOT made for pleasure use any more. The genuine Bruce was a well constructed & very strong heat treated anchor. Knock off, non heat treated, copies that sell for $139.00 have become the Bruce. One could argue that the "Claw" type knock offs sell at a rate that DWARFS the genuine CQR these days. I am seeing lots of new generation anchors up our way but still the Claw and CQR types rule the bows, though it's slowly changing. Last fall, at haul out, I counted two other Rocna's in my boat yard and four Manson's there were also a couple of others including Spades and a Bullewaga. The prior year I was the sole "roll bar anchor". Everyone that I know, and there are always some outliers, who owns a "new generation anchor" is an experienced boater who previously owned one of the older styles. If they, the tried and true, worked so well "repeatably" these folks wold have never laid down the cake to "upgrade". New boaters usually use what "came with the boat" or they go cheap as in a $139.00 claw or a Danforth type.. No one is saying the old anchors don't work just that SOME of the new anchors consistently and repeatably perform at a higher success range/rate. I happen to own one new generation anchor that performed no better than My CQR's so this is NOT a blanket statement that ALL new generation anchors perform better. Some do and some don't. As others have said the perfect anchor is NOT yet made.. I would rather see every boater actually learn how to properly use the gear they have than upgrade and still continue with bad habits. Technique is a HUGE, if not the biggest, factor of anchoring!
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Mainesail You make excellant points and I agree with

all of them. I suppose that the bottom conditions in the Chesapeake bay are more favorable than in the open sea or even in the bays and rivers of the New England coast. I was able to buy my 35 pound CQR for 75 dollars in 1995 and i have about 30 feet of 3/8 chain on it. There is no doubt that is over size for a 9,000-10,000 pound 30 foot boat so probably my experience is not typical. The bottom of the coastal waters north of about 43 degrees was scraped by the glaciers and the waters near my sisters place in Long Island ,NY is all cobble stone or mud from what I have seen from the shore. I would certainly look for an anchor that was more dependable if mine didn't meet my expectations. Our anchorages down here are numerous so they are rarely crowded. For example my favorite anchorage is in a bight on the Sassafras river almost a half mile long and a quarter mile from the channel and sheltered on all side by land with no more than a mile of fetch. I don't recall ever seeing more than four or five boats at anchor there. There is very good holding in 10 feet and no one anchors within shouting distance on another boat. The other places I like are about as sparcely occupied but not as sheltered.
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
Anyone use the UK variation of the rope to chain splice?

http://www.bluemoment.com/warpchainsplice.html Being one who has been depply involved in mountain rescue, etc., I shudder at the violations of 'good rope practice' I see with a wall or crown back splice into the end of a run of chain. No one on earth who has good 'rope savy' would ever do a so-called 'back splice' onto a chain link .... its not strong, it soon wears out and bends the rope segments at less than 4X the diameter of the rope .... all 'vary bad' rope practice. Has anyone on this board actually used the UK version of the warp-to-chain splice? BTW1 Stainless steel anchor (eg. 300 series).... has to be a bad joke intended for the anal-retentive boater type. Stainless is too subject to fatigue (microcracking, etc. etc. etc.) at stress levels above 30000 psi. BTW2 For my Steel anchors, I tie on a small zinc anode to the stock when anchoring long term. The result is NO galvanic action on anchor or on the adjacent chain. Yeah Yeah Yeah, I should use a calibrated cell to make sure that Im not 'over zinc-ed'. ... but so far a small tie-on zinc for me seems to work out well. Anyone of the anchor mfg. guys like to comment? ... how about a Magnesium anode - to protect the galvanizing? This is for when anchored for many days or weeks, not dropping a 'lunch-hook'. BTW3 For all these so-called 'anchor tests', ...... I'd like to see a test that validates the 'quality of the bottom' with reference to all such tests. A bottom that has been 'characterized' by some repeatable / standardized 'penetration test' of the bottom ---- psi per inches per penetration distance via a standardized 'shape' or screw (pile via 'torque') would at least 'characterize' the bottom into data values into which such an anchor penetrates. Someone please put some sanity to this (anchor salesman talk) and agree to some ASTM or ISO standatd testing that involves 'a repeatable and validatable characterization of the bottom'. If I were to design/manufacture/sell anchors, all Id have to do is search around until I found a bottom that 'favored' MY anchor and then run a test against all my competitors. At least with a bottom 'characterization' of (softness/relative density/penetration ease, etc. one could give test data that could be realistically compared against other anchors. Without such validation .... I simply WINCE when I see "my anchor is better than Anchor A, Anchor B, etc.", and ALL tests seem like someone advocating a political candidate or a used car ........ simply NOT to be believed. Until then, I will remain quite doubtful of all these 'tests' are nothing more is 'my anchor is better than this or that anchor (and remain very happy with my Spade anchors) --- but would really like to know which is best based on a FULL technical basis with pull/reset, etc. (NUMBERS) of the anchor versus a 'characterization (NUMBERS)' of the bottom.
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
CQR -----

Ross - I gave up on CQRs on the Chesapeake about 15 years ago. In comparison to one of the 'modern' anchors, a CQR simply wont hold or set or reset as well as the 'moderns'. (and I dont care if you put out a kilometer of rode). Nah, try anchoring in loose shells, deep muck, loose/fluidized sand ... the CQR simply wont do it; but, a spade/xyz/rochna/manson simply wont have a problem 99.9% of the time. You're beating a very dead very old horse (pony actually) with a CQR.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
RichH ,I like the rope to chain splice.

When I finally have a setting problem with my anchor I shall post the details.
 
May 18, 2004
259
J-boat 42 conn. river
anchors always seem to be a hot topic!!!1

I have used a danforth with 6' of 1/2" chain on the Chesapeake bay for 20 years and never had a problem holding. or pulling out with a wind shift. I think a lot of this pertains to the type of bottom your setting in and how its set. obviously different anchors work better in different bottom conditions. when i had the boat in new England for as few years i did use my bigger anchor a danforth 25 with an added 6' of 1/2" chain and had no problems there either. i will say that the larger anchor with 12' of chain was impossible to pull by hand and had to be pulled with the help of the iron gennie. if what you have works well for you why change? I guess this is why you see a lot of world cruisers with multiple types of anchors hanging off their bow. s/v Que Pasa?
 
Mar 21, 2004
2,175
Hunter 356 Cobb Island, MD
UK rope to chain

RichH, I tried that splice a couple of years ago. My windless after a few passes chewed up the rope to the point of failure. Windless also had some minor problems passing the spliced area thru. Had to go back to the backsplice. I check it every month for ware for the last two years. I will probably re-splice at the end of this season. On H356, I've been use a 35 CQR with 40ft of chain and only have dragged once but that was a special case, Case being another anchor fouling the CQR. (Doesn't count). The boat started out with a Delta and it dragged. Jim S/V Java
 
D

Dave

Anchor chain

I am changing most of the lines on new to me boat. Since I am the new guy on the block.(never owned one before)I have changing most the lines and what so ever needs to be done.My boat is 27 feet and I would also like to change the anchor,line and chain. What would the old salts recomened for anchoring ?. I am off the gulf coast that is pretty shallow. Any recommendations? David
 
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