WOW - My bottom paint fell off *yks

[Jim Seamans]

I'm not blaming anyone for this. Picture is of my port side where the paint just flaked off down to the barrier coat. It started out with a spot about 6 inches across and with a putty knife expanded a little *yks. A few of the smartasses around me told me to use the starboard side every once in while or stop going so fast. Oh Well.I was using Micron CSC for the last two years but will change to West Marine's CPP this year. This is more of a cost issue than a paint issue. My first mate said if we are repainting every year - GO CHEAP. I have no idea what the original bottom paint was from the dealer. Best guess from a couple of people is the hull was not prepared properly in this area since just about everywhere else the paint has adheared.See Ya - got a little sanding to do....Waiting to hear from the collective for advise.JimS/V Java

 

[Rich Stidger]

WM paint- CPP and PCA

Jim,I have used West Marine's CCP and PCA paint. I found that both performed about as well as the high-priced-spread. I used CPP for one year and then switched to PCA with the Irgarol slime blocking additive just because I thought it might be better. I have continued to use PCA because I do see less slime on the bottom.I use just 1 gallon on my 40.5 and roll it on with minimal thickness with a 1/4" nap roller. I have a few spots that are worn off in the fall, but no growth and NO BUILDUP. I think most people tend to put too much paint on and that also leads to flaking and chipping.If you watch the sales, I have been able to buy PCA for about $90-100 on sale and with a coupon from the catalog.Regarding the paint fall-off: my guess is that the bottom was not prepared correctly in that area. If there is a paint shop expert at your marina, I would ask for advice so you don't inadvertently make the same mistake.

 

[Warren Milberg]

Jim

I've seen this kind of thing a lot in my yard. All with boats less than 5 yrs old. Most of the owners I've talked with about this all seem to agree that the condition was caused by not properly degreasing/dewaxing/deblushing the new hull prior to the first coat of bottom paint being applied by whomever applied it (mostly the commissioning broker). All had some concerns about the possibility of Hunter voiding their hull warrantees if they stripped all the paint off and barrier coated their hulls. I know your boat is pretty new so you may want to check with Hunter before you do anything. I suggest you thoroughly prep the hull prior applying any kind of bottom paint. You may want to consider using something like acetone to remove blush or wax and then use Interlux Primocon as a primer before putting on bottom paint. Finally (phew....!), I note that the recent Practical Sailor tests of bottom paint suggest that there is almost no relationship between the price of the paint and its effectiveness. I've had really good results with only putting on one thinnish coat of Interlux ACT or West's CPP each year. Good luck.

 

[Doug_Meyer]

Had this happen too!

When we hauled our boat last fall, the bottom paint (VC-17) literally bubbled off to the bare fiberglass when the bottom was hosed off (new boat last season). Turns out the material the dealer used to prep the bottom was either ineffective or defective. I don't know what prep mmaterial they used, but according to him they had other boats with the same problem.Anyway we start over again this year... The good news was that the VC-17 worked well in keeping the crud off the bottom while the boat was in the water.

 

[Bob]

Same Problem with My 356

Jim,Had a similar problem with my 2002 356. Adhesion problem most likely the result of the bottom not being prepared properly. I bought the boat new and it was commissioned in early April 2002. I have a feeling the weather was a factor when the dealer painted the bottom as it was quite cold then.Moved up to the 44 AC this past August. I will be painting the bottom the end of April and was also considering using WM CPP. Hopefully I'll have better luck this time around.Bob KellerSV Kathryn 2, Stamford, Ct

 

[Pete]

What they said

Pretty much echoing what others said, if it's a new boat, the bottom has to be wiped down with mold-release solvent before painting. I forget the exact name of the chemical, but Interlux makes one such formula that gets rid of the wax left on the hull when it comes from the mold. Word to the wise: use a respirator, goggles and heavy rubber gloves. The liquid is nasty; the fumes aren't much better.If it's an older boat, the foregoing isn't the problem, I'd guess. Instead, it might be a case of applying the wrong paint over a pre-existing coat. Check out this page from West Marine's "West Advisor":http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/westadvisor/10001/-1/10001/primerbottompaints.htmIn any case, it looks like you may have to strip the bottom and start over. Been there, done that.Petes/v EmmieLou (ODay 322)Little Silver, NJ

 

[Don]

can't be lask of prep

If, as you indicated, the hull was barrier coated, I don't see how the problem is lack of hull prep. The barrier coat is clearly adhered well so the mold release wax, which would be covered by the barrier coat, was obviously addressed properly.My guess is simple lack of adhesion to the barrier coat which was dusty/dirty thereby never forming a good base for painting.

 

[RichH]

Probably a result of not removing the amine blush

Epoxide barrier coats will often produce an amine blush where some of the components of the catalyzing process comes out of the epoxy and rises to the 'surface'. If the epoxy isnt fully cured before applying barrier this is not a problem but if the barrier is allowed to fully cure then the 'blush' HAS to be removed by soapy water, etc. before applying bottom paint or you will get large areas of adhesion problems. I suggest that you thoroughly WASH this section with hot soapy water then use acetone, etc. to extract any remaining blush **before** you sand and apply new bottom paint.The 'trick' to be sure that the bottom coat 'really' adheres is to apply it before the barrier coat fully cures --- called 'hot coating'.

 

[Tim R.]

Paint window

This can also happen if you do not paint soon enough after the last coat of barrier. I think it is 24hrs. The fist coat of antifoul needs to bond with the barrier. You should use a hard paint as the first coat and it should be a different color from your soft paint.Tim R.

 

[Dan Johnson]

Flakey paint

Jim, I used CCP on my 27 when I finished renovating it and finally splashed it. The bottom was well preped and lightly sanded to get a good tack. The CCP worked great up here at the north end of the Bay after the first season. The next year I was in the middle of applying the new coat for the season when the previous coat started to flake off on the roller. I used a scraper to remove the loose pieces and a small roller to touch up the spots. I came to find out the WM changed suppliers and I may have experienced a solvent reaction between the two different paint manufacturers.When I bought my H34 in the fall of 2004, it had been in the water since the spring of 2003 with CSC on its bottom. Had no wear spots and only the waterlime scum to remove for the Spring of 2005. Put on CSC again and have no wear-through to the contrast color first layer. Am very happy with CSC and will be applying it again in a couple of weeks.One more thing: the "new" CCP description doesn't say it is a multi-season ablative like the old version did. Just be sure it is compatible with the CSC already on the boat or you may end up taking the whole bottom down to the barrier coat and start over.Dan JohnsonIntrepidH34 #113North East, MD

 

[r.w.landau]

Coating times,

most barrier coatings have a specific regiment as to when the next coat can /must be put on. If I recall, the bottom paint can be applied 8 hrs after completion of the barrier coat but must be applied before 16 hours or the barrier coat must be sanded and prepped again.again, this is from recollection from 3 years ago.r.w.landau

 

[Jim]

Bottom Paint

Damn! What's your secret? I wish some of my bottom paint would fall off! It would save me a hell of a lot of grinding. Regards, Jim.

 

[Eric Sachau]

chemical bond or mechanical bond

I had this happen too. It was explained to me that I had not applied the bottom paint quickly enough after I did the barrier coat. Apparently, if you apply the bottom paint timely, there is a chemical bond as both cure. If the barrier is fully cured, this does not happen. If the barrier coat if fully cured, you must sand it and rough it for a mechanical bond between the two paints.