People like fiberglass (and wood) because both materials are infinitely repairable.
The H216's outer hull is made from acrylonitrile styrene acrylate (ASA), while the foam core consists of urethane foam backed by fiberglass. One of the major advantages of this design is that the H216 is nearly unsinkable. The challenge, however, is that there is less widely available guidance on best practices for repairing the ASA outer skin than there is for repairing traditional fiberglass hulls.
If it were my boat, I would ask myself whether I was willing to learn and become comfortable with some basic ASA repair techniques. If the answer is yes, and you really like the boat, then I would say go for it. With some patience and a willingness to develop a few new skills, the damage may be quite manageable to repair.
A quick AI search on best practices for repairing acrylonitrile gave
The best way to repair acrylonitrile plastic (most commonly ABS, or Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) is solvent welding using acetone or an ABS slurry, which chemically melts and fuses the broken pieces back into a single solid unit.
1. Solvent Welding with Acetone (For Clean Cracks)
- Clean the area: Wipe the damaged part with isopropyl alcohol to remove oil, dust, and debris.
- Align the pieces: Hold or tape the broken parts tightly together in their original position.
- Apply acetone: Use a fine brush or dropper to apply a small amount of pure acetone directly into the crack. Capillary action will pull the acetone into the joint.
- Felt fusion: The acetone temporarily dissolves the ABS polymer chains. Hold the pieces steady for 1 to 2 minutes as they begin to soften and fuse.
- Cure: Allow the solvent to fully evaporate over several hours. The joint re-solidifies into the original plastic strength.
2. ABS Slurry Method (For Gaps or Missing Material)
- Make the slurry: Dissolve small scraps of spare ABS plastic (like 3D printing filament or spare pieces of the same material) into a glass jar of pure acetone until it forms a thick, syrup-like paste.
- Paint the mixture: Apply coats of the ABS slurry over the crack or weak reinforcement zones using a brush, letting each layer dry completely (ideally overnight). This builds up thickness and structurally waterproofs the repair.
3. Plastic Welding and Mechanical Reinforcement (For High-Stress Parts)
- Hot stapler or soldering: For heavy-duty breaks, use a plastic hot stapler or a wide-tipped soldering iron to melt metal reinforcement staples or wire mesh across the back of the crack.
- Blend and finish: Smooth the melted surrounding surface back over the metal reinforcement to lock it in permanently.
