removehtml]Hello everyone, Just bought my first boat, and couldn't be happier. Wondering if a specific type of sealant I have is right for the job. The precise sealant name is: "One Part Polyether Urethane Sealant/Adhesive". It actually says on the product that it will adhere to fiberglass and is safe to use on marine projects above the water line. I guess my only real concern is that it didn't really come from a major marine supply store (i.e. west marine). I plan on using it for resealing deck hardware, re bedding the port lights and the haul-to-deck joint. Any help, comments or input is greatly appreciated. I got this boat real cheap and it looks like it hasn't been maintained properly, so i just want to do it right the first time. Thanks for your help, JesseError: Error: expected [/URL], but found [/removehtml] instead[/removehtml]
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Jessie , the big problem with the polyurethane adhesive caulks is their
tenacity. They tend to hold too well. They are very difficult to remove if ever you wish to make changes. On the other hand if you are certain that you want this or that part in that place forever it is very good to use. Also I think that you may be concerned about the HULL to deck joint. You should plan to remove the hardware that you will rebed and clean both mating surfaces. Don't try to simply apply more caulk around the outside.
tenacity. They tend to hold too well. They are very difficult to remove if ever you wish to make changes. On the other hand if you are certain that you want this or that part in that place forever it is very good to use. Also I think that you may be concerned about the HULL to deck joint. You should plan to remove the hardware that you will rebed and clean both mating surfaces. Don't try to simply apply more caulk around the outside.
The problem with polyurethane adhesive caulks is their
tenacity. They tend to hold too well. They are very difficult to remove if ever you wish to make changes. On the other hand if you are certain that you want this or that part in that place forever it is very good to use. Also I think that you may be concerned about the HULL to deck joint. You should plan to remove the hardware that you will rebed and clean both mating surfaces. Don't try to simply apply more caulk around the outside.
tenacity. They tend to hold too well. They are very difficult to remove if ever you wish to make changes. On the other hand if you are certain that you want this or that part in that place forever it is very good to use. Also I think that you may be concerned about the HULL to deck joint. You should plan to remove the hardware that you will rebed and clean both mating surfaces. Don't try to simply apply more caulk around the outside.
Great link for a newbie Joe.
Jesse - you did say polyether right. Joe's link will give you the explanation on the different types. Sounds like you are on the right track. Just don't let it touch plastics items - softens them up. My personal preference is Sikaflex. Have never found anything better. Type Sikaflex into the archives search on this forum, and read about it.
Jesse - you did say polyether right. Joe's link will give you the explanation on the different types. Sounds like you are on the right track. Just don't let it touch plastics items - softens them up. My personal preference is Sikaflex. Have never found anything better. Type Sikaflex into the archives search on this forum, and read about it.
I have used 3M 4200 as a bedding compound
I think 3M 4200 (NOT 5200) makes a decent bedding compound. The only drawback is that it tends to yellow but it can be manually removed if need be. I am pretty sure that Practical Sailor (the Consumer Reports for boaters) did a review of these kinds of compounds and BoatLife caulk and Sikaflex were rated quite well. Welcome to the wonderful world of boating where anything marine rated costs twice as much as the land based equivalent. Sometimes there is a justification for marine supplies/parts but make sure to buy your lantern oil at Wall Mart or similar ($5/qt) and not at West Marine ($20/qt). Congrats on the new boat Jesse.
I think 3M 4200 (NOT 5200) makes a decent bedding compound. The only drawback is that it tends to yellow but it can be manually removed if need be. I am pretty sure that Practical Sailor (the Consumer Reports for boaters) did a review of these kinds of compounds and BoatLife caulk and Sikaflex were rated quite well. Welcome to the wonderful world of boating where anything marine rated costs twice as much as the land based equivalent. Sometimes there is a justification for marine supplies/parts but make sure to buy your lantern oil at Wall Mart or similar ($5/qt) and not at West Marine ($20/qt). Congrats on the new boat Jesse.
Trial by error
I have made every caulk mistake known to boating, and here's what I learned. LifeSeal works best for just about every need. Use a caulk gun, not a tube. Buy the clear version, not white. Clear won't reveal as many mistakes as white. Start with a narrow bead at first, cut the point later if you feel it's too narrow. Keep acetone handy to clean as you go, with a roll of paper towels. I did a project some years ago sealing a dozen sections of an H29.5, and I wound up by doing the rubrail last. It worked wonders.
I have made every caulk mistake known to boating, and here's what I learned. LifeSeal works best for just about every need. Use a caulk gun, not a tube. Buy the clear version, not white. Clear won't reveal as many mistakes as white. Start with a narrow bead at first, cut the point later if you feel it's too narrow. Keep acetone handy to clean as you go, with a roll of paper towels. I did a project some years ago sealing a dozen sections of an H29.5, and I wound up by doing the rubrail last. It worked wonders.
Post a picture
of your new boat . We all like to see each others projects evolve..Welcome aboard.. I personally like a removable caulking for my deck hardware , ports.. so look to see what kind of adhesion properties this particular one has before you use it or it could haunt you later. I still think 3M 4200 is to tough to remove for deck hardware or ports.. Edit : Pretty sure I used 3M 101 last time, has held up very well and is very flexible. I also will only use a sealer that's rated for above/below the water line no mater where I'm using it on a boats ex tier.
of your new boat . We all like to see each others projects evolve..Welcome aboard.. I personally like a removable caulking for my deck hardware , ports.. so look to see what kind of adhesion properties this particular one has before you use it or it could haunt you later. I still think 3M 4200 is to tough to remove for deck hardware or ports.. Edit : Pretty sure I used 3M 101 last time, has held up very well and is very flexible. I also will only use a sealer that's rated for above/below the water line no mater where I'm using it on a boats ex tier.
Be Careful
Make sure your sealant is compatible with Lexan. I have sealed ports before and Lifeseal is not compatible with Lexan. I agree that using a removable caulk is smart. Just some thoughts about reading the fine print on all those tubes of caulk.
Make sure your sealant is compatible with Lexan. I have sealed ports before and Lifeseal is not compatible with Lexan. I agree that using a removable caulk is smart. Just some thoughts about reading the fine print on all those tubes of caulk.
thank you all so much....
thanks for all your help. I wasn't sure if I was going to get the adequate help and proper information while taking on this project, but all of you people really make a guy feel welcome. I really appreciate it. PS: here is a link to the exact product I was talking about: http://www.topindustrial.com/prodset.htm any additional input is appreciated. ~Jesse
thanks for all your help. I wasn't sure if I was going to get the adequate help and proper information while taking on this project, but all of you people really make a guy feel welcome. I really appreciate it. PS: here is a link to the exact product I was talking about: http://www.topindustrial.com/prodset.htm any additional input is appreciated. ~Jesse
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