Is there any guideline for chain and rode replacement. I have a combimation chain and rode which is 16 years old - still looks OK but it is not something you want to trake chances on.
working life of anchor rode
- Thread starter Don12480
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It all depends on exposure to UV, collection of abrasive sand and stuff (internal), and external abrasion.
If it's nylon, and has been out in the sun all the time, it's a lot weaker after 5 years. But if it's been stowed in a locker, it might last "forever". If it's "fuzzy" from abrasion, it's a lot weaker. If it's loaded up with abrasive sand (which you probably can't wash out), it's also weakened.
As for the chain, inspect the links. If they're severely worn (or corroded from saltwater), it's time for new. I have a friend who has to replace his Lake Erie mooring every 2 years, because it's sandy there.
If it's nylon, and has been out in the sun all the time, it's a lot weaker after 5 years. But if it's been stowed in a locker, it might last "forever". If it's "fuzzy" from abrasion, it's a lot weaker. If it's loaded up with abrasive sand (which you probably can't wash out), it's also weakened.
As for the chain, inspect the links. If they're severely worn (or corroded from saltwater), it's time for new. I have a friend who has to replace his Lake Erie mooring every 2 years, because it's sandy there.
How often do you anchor out? That's like: my car is 15 years old, is it OK? How many MILES are on the car, that's the real question.
Even more to the point what are the conditions where and when you anchor? My car is 22 years old but the engine is only 8 years old. The body has 285,000 miles but the engine has 75,000 miles. Be sure that none of the chain links are stretched or bent.
Hi Don,
I don't know if this is proper, but if you weigh the chain when new shouldn't it get lighter when it corrodes?
All U Get
Yes it should, if you can find a scale that will resolve ounces per hundred pounds. But iron oxide will be heavier than pure iron so the oxides would have to wear away. By the time that happens you should see the problem.
Chafe
A good idea is to rotate your anchor line end for end. I have 200 feet of line, every couple of yrs I switch ends. This spreads the wear.
A good idea is to rotate your anchor line end for end. I have 200 feet of line, every couple of yrs I switch ends. This spreads the wear.
I would chop off the last three feet and splice in a new thimble when I did that.
You could chop it there too and splice in a thimble if you like. I would be most concerned about wear at the point on the rode where it crosses the bow roller or however you lead it over the rail of the the boat. After one reversal I would consign it to the kids for swings.Ha! What about the middle???
I replaced my anchor rode...
last year when I decided that the really grundgy thing coiled up in the anchor locker that was passing for a rode for the four years I've owned the boat posed too much of a risk from its looks. (We don't anchor out, but on the Chesapeake you never know when a summer thunderstorm will make it more prudent to anchor than to try to sail).
Instead of tossing it in a dumpster, I took it home, looped it out on the driveway, and attacked it with a pressure washer to clean it off. The first five feet behind the chain revealed a rode that was in otherwise good condition. After cleaning it off completely, a full examination concluded that it was more filthy than old and worn out. Now it's attached to a spare second anchor in the locker for a really bad rainy day.
From this experience I would recommend an annual cleaning with modest use, and a heavy cleaning with frequent use to remove the dirt, sand, clay and other stuff that gets into the twists and will chew up the rode as it works if it is not cleaned regularly. Keeping its exposure to UV will lengthen its life considerably as well. All the usual other disclaimers apply...
last year when I decided that the really grundgy thing coiled up in the anchor locker that was passing for a rode for the four years I've owned the boat posed too much of a risk from its looks. (We don't anchor out, but on the Chesapeake you never know when a summer thunderstorm will make it more prudent to anchor than to try to sail).
Instead of tossing it in a dumpster, I took it home, looped it out on the driveway, and attacked it with a pressure washer to clean it off. The first five feet behind the chain revealed a rode that was in otherwise good condition. After cleaning it off completely, a full examination concluded that it was more filthy than old and worn out. Now it's attached to a spare second anchor in the locker for a really bad rainy day.
From this experience I would recommend an annual cleaning with modest use, and a heavy cleaning with frequent use to remove the dirt, sand, clay and other stuff that gets into the twists and will chew up the rode as it works if it is not cleaned regularly. Keeping its exposure to UV will lengthen its life considerably as well. All the usual other disclaimers apply...
I would advocate buying a new rode if you have any doubts. Depending on the size of your boat, a new rode with 30' of 5/16" G43 high-test chain and 200' of octo-plait 5/8" nylon isn't all that expensive.
It is all but impossible to splice used braided line but used laid line is not so bad.
If you have a windlass, that's not such a great idea. Even without one, thimbles make it harder to raise the anchor through the bow roller. Our older chain to rode splice was great, haven't gotten around to doing it with our new rode, chain and Rocna anchor.
I'd second doing a rope-to-chain splice instead. BTW, which Rocna did you get? The 15?? That's what I use on my boat as the primary.
Don 12480 does not say he has a windlass, and it goes without saying if you have a windlass you wouldn't put a thimble in there. Having a thimble on the line to shackle it to the chain or anchor, I can readily change chain/anchors or add additional rode between the ground tackle sections. Not so easily done with a chain-to-rope splice. I don't find thimbles any harder to get over the roller than any other part. Might not work for you, but it works for me for two+ decades.
SD, we got the Rocna 10, 22#
I sized the entire system for 42 knots of wind for our boat based on Calder's design in his Cruising Handbook. That's because we don't live back east or in the south where nighttime and day time thunderstorms can generate much higher winds. If we move the boat elsewhere, I'd need a heavier system. I've tested the Rocna in almost everywhere we usually anchor, and it's been superb, better than our old Bruce. We chucked our Danforth years ago, but you've already heard my stories and rants about that type of anchor. Maine Sail's anchoring article and his contribution to our C34 Message Board on anchoring (reply #33 here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,2705.30.html) were very helpful in making our choice.
I sized the entire system for 42 knots of wind for our boat based on Calder's design in his Cruising Handbook. That's because we don't live back east or in the south where nighttime and day time thunderstorms can generate much higher winds. If we move the boat elsewhere, I'd need a heavier system. I've tested the Rocna in almost everywhere we usually anchor, and it's been superb, better than our old Bruce. We chucked our Danforth years ago, but you've already heard my stories and rants about that type of anchor. Maine Sail's anchoring article and his contribution to our C34 Message Board on anchoring (reply #33 here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,2705.30.html) were very helpful in making our choice.
Stu-
Sounds about right.. I got the 15 because I do live where thunderstorms are an issue, and have a bit more windage than you do... even if the boat is smaller, since it is 18' wide.
Sounds about right..
I got the 15 because I do live where thunderstorms are an issue, and have a bit more windage than you do... even if the boat is smaller, since it is 18' wide. - Status