OK I'm a mechanic of sorts but am installing a new sole and suprisingly enough the pieces I cut fit. I'm very happy! But I knocked out about a zillion little bungs during removal figuring you just sand until the new ones are flush. With the teak laminate being so thin there has to be a better/faster/proper way. Little help please, or is that it?
Wood workers
- Thread starter Doug Burton
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Tim; is this really a good tool?
I have seen it advertised but as you know lots of commercials overstate how great something is. i guess I'm old fashioned and want to see it, and touch it before i buy it. it does look to be a very handy tool.
I have seen it advertised but as you know lots of commercials overstate how great something is. i guess I'm old fashioned and want to see it, and touch it before i buy it. it does look to be a very handy tool.
Old school woodworker says...
Tape your countersink drill bit to cut uniform depth bung holes. Pre-cut your bungs so that they just barely stand proud when glued in. If you have pre-made bungs, either drill to the correct depth or sand the bungs on a belt sander to pre-trim them. Wait until the glue dries.
If you have a decent quality wood chisel (not those sold at big box or hardware stores) that has been properly sharpened (you should be able to shave the hair off of the back of your hand) you can pare off the bungs flush with the sole faster than you can find an extension cord and it shouldn't require any sanding.
Don't try to shove the chisel through the bung as that may tear out wood fibers. Holding the bevel of the chisel flush to the sole and the edge at a 45 degree angle to the direction of the cut, use a twisting motion similar to whittling to slice the bung off.
Tape your countersink drill bit to cut uniform depth bung holes. Pre-cut your bungs so that they just barely stand proud when glued in. If you have pre-made bungs, either drill to the correct depth or sand the bungs on a belt sander to pre-trim them. Wait until the glue dries.
If you have a decent quality wood chisel (not those sold at big box or hardware stores) that has been properly sharpened (you should be able to shave the hair off of the back of your hand) you can pare off the bungs flush with the sole faster than you can find an extension cord and it shouldn't require any sanding.
Don't try to shove the chisel through the bung as that may tear out wood fibers. Holding the bevel of the chisel flush to the sole and the edge at a 45 degree angle to the direction of the cut, use a twisting motion similar to whittling to slice the bung off.
Chisel works good but
I had many hard to reach areas and often could not run the chisel from the proper direction.
If you have any funds at all, buy the multimaster because once you have one, you will wonder how you lived without it for so long.
I know we all value Maine Sail's opinion. He borrows mine when he needs to.
As far as quality is concerned, I refuse to buy crap. I take crap but will not buy it;-). Most of my tools are high quality, brand name tools made in either Germany or the US.
The drawback of the Fein is that it ain't cheap and the blades are pricey too. Fortunately, the company I work for gets me very good pricing on tools.
I had many hard to reach areas and often could not run the chisel from the proper direction.
If you have any funds at all, buy the multimaster because once you have one, you will wonder how you lived without it for so long.
I know we all value Maine Sail's opinion. He borrows mine when he needs to.
As far as quality is concerned, I refuse to buy crap. I take crap but will not buy it;-). Most of my tools are high quality, brand name tools made in either Germany or the US.
The drawback of the Fein is that it ain't cheap and the blades are pricey too. Fortunately, the company I work for gets me very good pricing on tools.
Agree with Ross ....
Get a Good Quality Chisel (almost impossible to buy in the USA anymore), then HONE it with a 'white water stone' then a leather strop ... and simply slice the bungs off with an action like using a cutlass held to the surface. Caution - a 'honed' chisel is extremely sharp and will cut with virtually NO pressure, especially human body parts.
Takes some practice, and to gain expertise of 'how the grain lays' in the bungs ... and then you probably wont need to sand them!
My boat probably has more than 5000 bungs, I get good practice with a honed chisel.
Get a Good Quality Chisel (almost impossible to buy in the USA anymore), then HONE it with a 'white water stone' then a leather strop ... and simply slice the bungs off with an action like using a cutlass held to the surface. Caution - a 'honed' chisel is extremely sharp and will cut with virtually NO pressure, especially human body parts.
Takes some practice, and to gain expertise of 'how the grain lays' in the bungs ... and then you probably wont need to sand them!
My boat probably has more than 5000 bungs, I get good practice with a honed chisel.
My favorite source for tools is the antique markets
Estates get sold and the tools of the trade are sold to antique dealers at auction. They in turn sell most of them for far less than the cost of a new Buck or Stanley.
Estates get sold and the tools of the trade are sold to antique dealers at auction. They in turn sell most of them for far less than the cost of a new Buck or Stanley.
1/2 way done
I want to thank you guys for the advise, worked on it all weekend. I ended up using a chisel for what is done and wouldn't have thought of it. Those things are really sharp! Razor thin slices falling off was suprising. Also picked up a flex blade pull saw for in case. So far so good and couldn't be happier with my "like new" interior. Thanks again, Doug
I want to thank you guys for the advise, worked on it all weekend. I ended up using a chisel for what is done and wouldn't have thought of it. Those things are really sharp! Razor thin slices falling off was suprising. Also picked up a flex blade pull saw for in case. So far so good and couldn't be happier with my "like new" interior. Thanks again, Doug
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