Wood work!

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Feb 17, 2006
5,274
Lancer 27PS MCB Camp Pendleton KF6BL
Need to sand down my companion way wood work and revarnish. Is there anything I need to know in advance before I get started? Each new maintenance fucntion is a challange. I'm still trying to get the dried encrusted bird poop out of the non-skid. Almost done. ;D Thanks in advance. (p.s. Please don't beat me up because I've never done wood work.) *cry
 
B

Bill Ogilvie

To keep the wood flat ...

use a sanding block. If you have a lot of old varnish to remove a carbide scraper is a lot faster than sanding. Even faster if you soften it up with a hot air blower - a bit safer than a torch. You can use paint remover to soften the varnish to. I prefer hand sanding, wrapping 1/2 of a piece of sand paper around a piece of wood. If you sand without a wood block or are careless with a power sander the surface will never be flat again.
 
Mar 31, 2006
37
Hunter H-26 Hayden Lake, ID
Wood Grain

Bill says it right and I want to add the key item in working with wood is sand/scrape parallel to the grain and not across it. Have restored a 56 wood Chris Craft runabout and found out the hard way. Cross grain leaves nasty marks. Mike T.
 
Jul 1, 1998
3,062
Hunter Legend 35 Poulsbo/Semiahmoo WA
Filter the Varnish

Another tip is to filter the varnish. Use a separate container and clean it thoroughly. Use womans hose (it used to be pleantiful) and filter the varnish you use. NEVER work directly out of the varnish can! It gets everything contaminated. Foam brushes work good enough and there is no fuss, no muss. It's possible to re-use the brush between coats if it is kept cool enough so the varnish doen't dry. Wrap it in clean tin foil and put it in the refrigerator. Wipe everything to be varnished with the recommended brushing liquid to remove dust and not contaminate the brush or the varnish in the separate container. Which brings up a point - which ever system you use, Interlux or what ever, use their recommended chemicals like brushing thinners, etc. Everything has been formulated to work together so considering all the time and effort you're puting into the project it doesn't make sense to save pennies at this stage. Currently I use Schooner but when the can is used up I'm switching to Emphansies (check spelling!!!). A local couple who make a living varnishing Grand Banks boats (only) use this so it must be good. At least one of their products you don't have to sand between coats which is a real time saver. Varnishing is an art. There is nothing like some fresh varnish to make a boat look like a yacht.
 
R

Rod

Careful with brush in freezer

Be careful about leaving chemical items in the freezer as it will contaminate the food. It will taste like Varnish....
 
R

robert taylor

keep the color light

often when teak is revarnished, it becomes very dark. there are a couple of things that help. there are products that will belach wood (not clorox, and i do not remember the name of the product, but you can google it up). the other, is a first coat can be a clear sanding sealer. not only does this keep the wood lighter, but saves money by not soaking up so much of the more expensive varnish.
 
B

Bob

tight spots

All the foregoing is good advice (especially about chemicals in the freezer. T-Bones lose something when they take on a polyester resin taste - don't ask how I know.) I'll add that a powered hand "mouse" sander with the pointed tip is a good way to get into corners and other tight places. After sanding the wood with fine grit paper, just before you apply the first coat of varnish, wipe it down with a clean lint-free rag lightly soaked in thinner until no more sanding residue can be wiped up.
 
Feb 17, 2006
5,274
Lancer 27PS MCB Camp Pendleton KF6BL
These are all very good...

tips. Thank you for your great suggestions.
 
D

Dan

Things I learned about varnish:

1. Use the cheapest China bristle brush you can find for all the coats except the last coat. Don't clean them, throw them out. 2. The family is under strict orders to save all Pringles Singles cups and all Dannon Yogurt cups. I pour a little varnish in the little cup and then when I use that up, I add a little more. I really like the Pringle Singles cups. They have a sloping tapered bottom that will trap any trash that gets in the vanish from the brush. When you finish varnishing, throw away the little cups. I'm allowed to do that, I'm the Dad. 3. I will use the badger hair brush on the last coat, that is, provided I actually get to the last coat. 4. On the third and consecutive coats, I sand with 320 wet or dry paper and I wet sand every coat there after. I use 600 wet for the last sanding just before the final coat. 5. It is best to wet sand the varnish over the kitchen sink when the wife is out shopping. 6. The new can of varnish gets poured into small water bottles. I cut the little ring off the neck of the bottle and wipe the rim after every pour. If you don't wipe off the rim, it requires the largest pipe wrench in the tool box to get the blasted lid off. 7. I made a stand for a little funnel. The little cups sit under the funnel. Little filters sit in the funnel. 8. Once you have a little varnish in the little cups, then add the thinner. 3/8" of varnish and 3/8" of thinner covers a lot of wood. 9. Think small. Use small quantities. A little goes a long way. 10. 50% thin first coat, 75% thin second coat, then full strength after that. 11. After I pour varnish from the water bottles. I squeeze the bottle and bring the level of the varnish all the way up to the very top of the bottle. This lets no air in the varnish and keeps it fresh. Little 7 oz bottles would be better. Opening the can of varnish all the time lets too much air get in contact with the varnish. If you think about it, I will go through 1/2 a can of varnish and the air has yet to get to the other half of the can. 12. Hang the pieces up vertically. This might only let a little dust and dirt get on the finish. 13. Varnish has force like gravity. Any particle of dirt will find it's way into the finish no matter how careful you are. 14. The varnish looks pretty bad after you drop the piece on the floor. Try not to do this.
 
Dec 2, 2003
4,245
- - Seabeck WA
Good scoop. Wet sanding is the way to go.

Just pour some mineral spirits onto the surface and block sand with wet-or-dry paper. When the surface is too dry it will let you know. Then tack rag and varnish. The air will be free of dust. And you don't have to wait for the surface to dry. The mineral spirits is the same stuff that thins the varnish/poly. A much better finish than from using power tools. Just don't let your dogs tear it up! :( P.S. Brian, are you new here? We, at this web site, have only one purpose; helping others. We're not going into attack-mode with inexperienced sailors.
 
Feb 17, 2006
5,274
Lancer 27PS MCB Camp Pendleton KF6BL
Been here a while Fred...

and was really just doing that in gest. But in that time I have seen a few people get thrashed for asking such simple basic questions. For the most part though, this is a good group of knowledgeable folks here and I enjoy the information being passed back and forth. The jabs are fun also. Thanks for everyon's input.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Brian, When trying to remove gauno

from they deck the key is to get it as wet as when it landed there. Some wet saw dust will trap and hold the water but don't use redwood sawdust it will stain worse than the guano. Pine or maple saw dust won't leave a stain.
 
D

Dan

FOR JOHN NANTZ!!

Just a heads up John. The Epifanes varnish is totally different from Interlux. Using Interlux 96, I will go back and tip off my varnish a few minutes after applying. It help pop the bubbles and will flatten any sags. I did that with Epifanes and it left huge brush marks. I did not have good luck using Epifanes after getting used to Interlux 96. I am certainly not an expert. I know I have a $40.00 can of Epifanes at the house and I'm afraid to open the can. IMO This stuf it terrible.
 
Jul 1, 1998
3,062
Hunter Legend 35 Poulsbo/Semiahmoo WA
Don't Shake The Can!!!

Just thought of one more tip - Don't shake the can! It get's air bubbles in the liquid which will then cause problems with the finish. Don't do anything that causes air bubbles to get into the varnish. Stir very easily, carry gently, pour very carefully, etc. Air bubbles cause problems.
 
D

Don

one more tip

Great information for someone who has struggled with varnish for years - hope this improves my result. When I have a project going I use a fairly good brush and after each application I pour a little minreal spirits on it and wrap it in syran wrap very tight which allow the same brush to be used over a muti week project. As suggested I will go to a new better quality brush for the final caot.
 
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